ok guys '79 volare w/ intermitent wiper (3spd??) well when i turn them to intermitent now the just go on-slow, and on-slow is normal, and so is fast high, not only that but the wipers will only go back down all the way if i throw the switch to fast-high, other wise they get stuck up at random spots on the winshield, this is getting very annoying, please help !!!

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

so no one has any idea on what might be wrong ??

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Check for binding and lube if needed???
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

no there not binding, i think it may be the switch itself, will hit up the bone yard and i hope i can find a 3spd switch,

-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

I've done a lot of work w/ the Mopar wipers, but not the later model with delay - it was very hard to do w/ the earlier models. Basically, they added a switch to tell the motor where to stop.

One important thing to remember (at least on the early models and I suspect all 3/variable sp) is that *both* the dash switch AND the motor ought to be properly grounded - I don't have my notes in front of me, but I know that w/o proper grounds things can't run right. After that, the switch itself has a number of contacts and involved logic and if any of them are bad you'll have problems.

To park (on some models), the motor must reverse direction and that requires making/breaking a number of contacts at the switch; a switch inside the motor tells it where to park.
I strongly suspect you have at least 2 trouble spots; the park switch inside the motor the may be worn/dirty/broken and you've
got a poor connection/ground/switch contact at the dash switch.

I'd start troubleshooting with checking the motor ground, then the switch ground (you could probe at the motor and use the FSM truth table to tell you which wires ground when) - that will probably lead you to the dash/bulkhead/dash switch.

The 3/variable sp wiper's internal park switch is rather delicate and very easy to break, but it isn't all that hard to get at. I don't know of a source for replacement internal switches (maybe somebody here does).

Good Luck,K

Hi Volare4life, you have a wiper control box, called 'intermittent wiper control unit' under the dashboard, a yellow/white flimsy plastic box screwed to the reinforcing rib, app. under the radio. They often go bananas after some years, but they also have very little contact area for the electrical connections, some wiggling of the wires may 'cure' it.

I found out because I got a wiring harness and a wiper motor for a '79, with the intention of upgrading my '77 which doesn't have intermittent wipers. Long face when I discovered all the homebrewed extra relays and switches for all functions because the 'box' didn't work!

I have looked for them in parts list with various suppliers, but cannot find one. If you, or some other reader know of a supplier of new ones, or some other suitable replacement unit, please tell. I need one too.

Good luck!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Many years ago I bought "fits all models" wiper delay from J.C.Whitney; well, it may have fit all Taiwanese models, but was a disaster on my '75 Dodge Coronet. The problem is that they lack a switch inside to tell you where to stop the wipers.

I spent ~$100 in parts and built one that did work fine, but had to install a Hall effect pickup to determine the stop position and use a 4PDT relay to switch everything around. The only part I could salvage from the JCW kit was the knob, that subsequently broke. Chrysler eventually just put a switch inside the motor.

I laughed OL. With you, not at you!

As far as relays go I have been VERY successful at taking a little time, emery cloth, solder and my soldering iron to them. The older and harder to find ones are the ones where this is worth it. I just carefully pry them open, clean the contact points and check all the solder points and that is usually it. after years of being powered up and down, heat, moisture etc the solder joints fail and really just need to be cleaned and re-done.
I have had especially good luck on my Wife's damn Volvo. It's relays for the fuel injection, pumps, spark control ETC all failed and they all cost an arm and a leg each IF I could find them. But with some patients and solder I got it running strong again. Well... as strong as it can I guess.
Of course this applies to ALL electronic crap that is expensive to replace. My motto is "If it's already broken, what do I have to loose by prying it open?"

OK I'll shut up now...

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1965 D100 225 slant 6, NP435 Utiline.