Just want to clarify that I wasn't trying to tell you to shell out a ton of money on the gas tank. Thats the kind of "troubleshooting" people do on the other boards (ie My fuel gauge doesn't work.....buy a sender and might as well get a new tank while you're at it). I was thinking more along the lines of pulling it, putting some cleaner and a chain in it and shaking it around for a while. Then giving it a good rinse and installing. Costs the same as manifold gaskets....just a bigger pain in the ass.

I can add that 15 years ago I had a slant that would just up and die for no reason. Turned out that the wire from the distributor to the coil was rotted. I'd look there, and I'd think about hot-wiring it (batt to coil positive) as a test to rule out something there. If you can get it to NOT start, with the key on you should see voltage at the coil +.

Others will take me to task for this, but gas tanks are self-cleaning. Whatever has collected at the bottom of the tank will quickly make it's way to the filter, and if it doesn't it will stay in the tank forever. Get three filters, change them every 100 miles, and by the time you install the third one you need not worry about it any more.

There. I just saved you a pile of money with my "ignore it till it fails" plan.
Kp

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1965 Valiant wagon Turbo slant (work in progress)
2000 Chevy 155" cargo van - The Abductor
1970 Newport convertible
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon
1966 CruiseAire motor home
1990 Toyota 1 ton box truck TURBO slant (scraped)

Howdy, 1st time posting here.

I'm helping bootsNbolts with her stalling issues. We finally realized that accelator pump appears to be hanging up and not pumping enough fuel.

My question is this. Is there supposed to be a 2 springs on the pump?
I've seen diagram:
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holl ... jpgdiagram
which shows a slightly different style of pump (#45) than BnB has. Hers looks more like the top one in this diagram:
http://www.tpocr.com/images/IPC/H1920carb.jpg

The pump seems to be sticking as it move forward and stops about half way.

Thanx,
GBOF

Holley pumps are the diaphragm type and do not move a lot. The Carter is a plunger type pump and move a lot more. Have we gotten a vacuum gage on the manifold to see what we have for vacuum?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

with the new intake manifold gasket, we held at 17 even, but i think it's around 16 right now. i'm sure we'll recheck it today. in the meanwhile, we're looking at replacing that spring, and so far none of the carb rebuild sets we're looking at even include it. this carb was rebuilt a few months back, all we really need is the spring.

mark blew out and checked carb lines, vac lines, took bowl off, reset float, adjusted idles properly, set timing, stretched the acc pump arm spring (which gave us a few good squirts of fuel and went back to it's surly old self)...we'll do a leak test around the bottom carb gasket, but there don't seem to be any further vac issues at this time. he also reset the rotor (the gears of which were replaced a few months back) AND we replaced the electronic ignition box. my to-do list is now MUCH shorter than my need-to-do list, yet all that seems to stand between me and a safe take off from stop is a freaking spring.

other work done: trouble shot ignition issue, which happily failed AFTER we got her into the garage, replaced pickup coil and voltage regulator. this got her to start again, but after a test run, we discovered the lag at low acceleration was still there and just the same.

does anyone have any ideas as to where we might find a compatible spring, without having to fork out the $21.99 for the entire rebuild kit, which often has parts missing anyways? we'd like to get this done today, and if we have to order the rebuild kit and wait all day to discover it doesn't have a spring, it's going to be pretty inconvenient. probably the diff between me being able to drive tonight or tomorrow, or waiting till the end of x-mas break.

i really wanted my son to be able to tell his friends, 'for x-mas, i got a ride to school!'

PS and thanks for the gas tank advice....i was told to do the multiple fuel filter/weekly change also. or mark says he can drop the tank, i'd get it boiled at gresham radiator for $95 (they do GREAT work, btw), etc. i still want that sending unit though, and it's pricey. though it's possible i don't have a SU issue, my money's on that i do.

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1962 dodge lancer GT

Have you tried a hardware store? Locally we have a brand called Dormans that supplies small items in thin wide pull out drawers. They even have brushes for motors-springs-odd nuts knobs. You can some times find them in better local auto parts stores. If you know about what size you need it should work.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

we were thinking about that. i'm going to check with the carb shop down the street as well, and possibly majhor murray's.

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1962 dodge lancer GT

Yes, call Joe's Carbruator Inc., Lynnwood WA. for the correct spring. Nothing like having a properly working accelerator pump.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

thanks, ted...i'll give 'em a call. here are some helpful links i've found so far:

http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php ... 2f2d717956 re: specific carb rebuild kits

http://www.holley.com/types/Accelerator ... 0Parts.asp re: holley website, rebuild kits for specific items

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/arch ... 11354.html re: forum posts from binderplanet.com that gives part #'s etc. for holley 1920

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techartic ... index.html

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/holley- ... 19745.html

it is HIGHLY likely that when i got the rebuild kit and had that done a few months back, we got a 'generic' kit, as one of these links talks about how the holley 1920 '62-'63 requires a different rebuild kit than later holley 1920's, and so may not have gotten the parts i need for my '62. to wit:

"Sleeve & ball bearing + return spring are only for 1962-'63 production Holley 1920s, not used on '64+ models." -slantsixdan

sorry this started as an engine post and has kind of gone all over the map since...that's how she goes!

oh and, BIG THANKS once again to joshua skinner for his mopar wisdom.

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1962 dodge lancer GT

holley 1920 12310R list 3057

what year is this, and what rebuild kit does it require?

not finding anything via google or on the holley site search.

spoke to helpful fellow at carb shop that was recommended, if this is the limited 1920 ('62-'63 only), rebuild parts like extra spring, etc., are OBSOLETE and he suggests finding a matching core for the parts. omfg.

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1962 dodge lancer GT

Walker carb kit catalog

Walker makes good carb rebuild kits.

Walker part number 15480A is listed for 73-60 Holley 1920s.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Your vacuum is still too low. The best test I have found so far is to put some soap and water in a squirt bottle and squirt all around the sides and base of the carb, the intake runners where they meet the head, the EGR or EGR blockoff and the port hole on top of the manifold on the runner closest to the firewall. Then pull the hose off of the PCV valve and shoot some air from your compressor up in there (don't use a huge amount of pressure). I can almost guarantee you'll see some bubbling somewhere and that'll be your vacuum leak.

When/if you do end up dropping the tank at some point. You'll most likely only need to buy parts for your sending unit instead of a new one whole. Should run you about half the price.

yep...should be 17, not 16. we're working on it...

not all holley 1920's are the same. so i am not sure what year mine is, as i can't find anything online that correlates to the part/list numbers on mine. so i have no idea what year mine was produced. no search results on the holley.com site.

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1962 dodge lancer GT

If you still have the rod style throttle linkage (and it sounds like you do if you are still using the factory original carb) then you should consider swapping over to a 64-66 Holley 1920 or BBS. Better still, consider swapping over to a cable style throttle linkage and later style kickdown linkage (or even a cable kickdown linkage) and installing a later model one barrel. Getting away from the rod style throttle and kickdown linkage really opens up many more possibilities for carburetion. You already know that your carb was a two year only model and has been obsolete for years. I say dump it and upgrade.

if you have checked everything else, it is entirely possible that your carburetor is the cause of the stalling and low vacuum.

Are you still running the original points ignition system on your 62? If so, you should replace the points and condensor and gap the points and set the dwell. Alternatively, you should upgrade to electronic ignition, preferably HEI.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

ESP47:
[quote]Your vacuum is still too low.[/quote]

Yes, vacuum is too low for a stock build with good valves. You should be seeing around 20 inches Hg. That baby is sucking air somewhere. Plug off all vacuum ports on the carburetor with a set of rubber cups made for that sort of thing, and put the soapy water, or carburetor cleaner to all gaskets, & throttle shaft, and listen for rpm change that indicates a leak.

If that test doesn’t show a leak, make sure the valve lash is 0.010â€￾ intake, and 0.020â€￾ exhaust… Remember the first three cylinders (1,2,3) start with E-I, E-I, E-I than the pattern changes to I-E, I-E, I-E for the last three cylinders. The two valves directly across from the carburetor are both intake valves.

If these settings are reversed for three of the cylinders you will have low vacuum readings, and sooner or later a burnt valve or two.

One can quickly rough check these settings when the engine is cold or hot when not running, two cylinders at a time: 1&4; 3&5; and 2&6. A 0.010â€￾ feeler will be real sloppy in 0.020â€￾ gap, and a 0.020 feeler won’t begin to enter a 0.010â€￾ gap. So a mistake will be real easy to see.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC