What about oil control? Don't we install crank scrapers, windage trays and baffles to avoid oil from robing horspower? I aggre for long heavy lugging hot use it would be fine but for performance no

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Nick
86 d150 turbo /6.
64 valiant 4 door

I was under the impression that oil cooling allows better heat quench (in an appropriately designed piston/head combo) allowing it to run at higher compression ratios without detonation.

Not applicable in a stock head slant, but I thought one of the goals of this build was to really bump the compression ratio?

Having said that, if it's a drag only engine then this probably doesn't apply.

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1960 Plymouth Belvedere 4 door sedan
Stock 60 225
Push button 3 speed Torqueflite
Right Hooker

Here are a couple of photos showing the added hole. It looks like a pretty safe place from a failure stand-point.
DD

It looks like the engine designers put some thought into the placement of the crank pin oil feed hole... it is about 30 degrees away from the TDC point of the crank's throw and the other end of the feed hole is in the grooved upper main bearing, at this point in crank rotation.
Basically, the feed hole is seeing full pressure and is just ahead of the piston / rod's TDC point, right when the high load of the power stroke "hits" the bearing.

We marked everything and looked at the place where the oil feed hole crosses the added drilled hole in the rod... to decide on which way to "point" the hole.
Cant get a photo of that place in the crank's rotation so you have to use your imagination with this shot... the oil "spit" happens just beforer the piston changes direction and is headed back down the bore.
DD

why does my brain think that statement is dirty?

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Funny... received PMs & email asking how I drilled these holes...

Pretty easy drilling job... I used a bearing to find the correct spot, a sharp center punch to mark that spot, then a "spot drill" to start the hole, straight-in.
Follow with a 1/8 drill and "angled" it toward the pin, as I drilled about 1/2 way into the material. Changed to a 1/16 drill and continued to "angle" up-wards, until it broke-thru. A little deburring and done.

Here is a shot of the tools and a rod, with a piece of wire thru the new hole, to help show the angle.
DD

Hey Doug,

I just wanted to chime in and tell you how much I appreciate your "always willing to teach" attitude. That means a lot to guys like me that read magazine articles and tech books and surf the internet, but rarely get to put things into practice. Thanks!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Yep, Rob! And always ready to experiment - and willing to put it out there. Nuff said!

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66 Lil' Red Piggie Valiant (Mater Crusher) - Thanks Zilla!!!!! 72 Demon (Number 1 Son's)

Thanks guys... no reason to keep this stuff a "secret".

When it comes to a "less worked-on" engine, it is alway nice when people publish any new ideas or things they try... doing that helps the rest of us figure-out what does and does not work.
DD

Piston clearance is set by measuring the diameter at the skirt below the wrist pin. When this is correct, what clearance are others seeing at the top land of the Weisco pistons?

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Cheers!
Al T

Pistons are typically about .050-.060 smaller in diameter in the ring land area compared to the skirt area, is that the "land" your referring to.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

On rods that have "spit holes", the oil is spraying out the hole throughout the entire 360° rotation of the crank. It also is spraying oil out from around both sides of the rod at the cheeks, thats why excessive side clearences are a bad idea. It overwhelms the oil rings and can lead to oil contamination inside the chambers and promote detonation.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

That's the reason I did not feel it necessary to put the holes in the new rods and the fact that there is enough normal windage in the engine to supplement. I also cut a groove on the non thrust side of the lifter bore to provide additional oiling to the lifter/lobe contact surface.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

I've drilled oil squirt holes in my rods also no problems at all. I'm no mechanic but it makes sense for me to drill them. I'm a street driver that loves giving my car a good flogging. This summer I'll hope to take the car down the quester mile and get some times. I haven't noticed any extra smoke from my car just lots of noise!!!! This valiant hammers!! I love this web site all you guys are cool and so heipful.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAIiaOSu ... ata_player

I grind the head so it can flow off the top of the head faster.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick