I'm starting to modify a set of rear manifolds for my dutra duals, and have a good pair of manifolds, but... on one of them the studs busted while removing the nut for the exhuast flange, and the other the bolts and stud busted while trying to separate the manifold from it's 1 barrel intake partner....

Anyone have a good method for removing these?

They are so heat annealed that I broke two carbide bits trying to drill one of the studs, I also tryed a couple days of penetrating oil on them first, and have gone as far as hitting them with a torch and trying the 'wax' method (still didn't budge)....

Will it harm things if I go ahead and blow the bolts out with the oxy-acet setup? One set will be for the Hpak, so I'm trying to get it clean and have the caps Ni-Rodded on, just would prefer to use the stock holes to hold the plate in place....

GRRRRRR....

-D.Idiot

We just burned out one of mine on a cast iron head with acetelyn(sp?) torch with no problem. Cleaned up a bit with a tap.

Jim

I've never done it, so I'll give it a whack...

Usually the 'other' methods work...but some 30 year old stud rems are seated good.

So just heat the rem till it's pretty cherry, then nail it with a little oxygen blast to blow it out of there then probably get the klinkers out and retap....


sounds like some fun tomorrow...

Thanks!

-D.Idiot

Didiot, if it's not a blind hole, it's not to bad. the only hole that is blind is the 3/8" stud hole at the marrying flange.
It helps if you can drill a hole thru, no matter how small. This helps prevent pop back when trying the blow out the stud. Get it red and blow it all out at once. Don't try to blow more then 2-3 seconds. If you do, the threads in the manifold start to get red and you will blow them out with the stud. If you don't get it all out on the first blow, let it cool down and do it again. After 1 or 2 you will get the feel for it and see it's pretty easy, it's just intimidating at first. After the gas axe work (smoke wrench), go easy with the clean up tap, the slag is kinda hard, just keep backing up, cleaning and going again.
The 3/8 hole can be done even though it's blind because there's a big cavity under where the threads stop but a hole has to be drilled first as big as you can go without hitting the threads. I've removed 1 broken 3/8 stud like this.

Cecil

Unfortunately, both 'candidates', and one I'll be modifying for my supersix setup all have that broken 3/8 stud, so it'll be time to back drill it and blow that one out....too....


Thank god I put anti-seize on all my new bolts...heck, I'd put it on my corn flakes if I knew it'd keep them from stopping me up!


-D.Idiot

I don't quite follow the part about hitting it with oxygen. Care to elaborate a bit?

I'm gonna have to do this myself if we pull the head, since there's already a couple broken studs I can see.

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Jopapa, you gotta have a "red wrench" to do what they're talking about. When you shoot the O2 to it, things get REAL hot.

"DW"

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If it ain't broke, fix it!

OOOooooohh, I like where this is going. Tell me more

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me

Basically you use an oxy-Acet torch to heat the bolt until it's red hot and almost glowing at that point you tap the oxygen lever to blow it out....the bolt is hot but has a lack of oxygen to get it to 'combust'/melt so once an abundant amount of pure oxygen is introduced to the 'burning' bolt, it should go poof...

-D.Idiot

be back in 4 hours to tell you how it went.

My buddy's brother in law borrowed the setup and busted his gauges, so he has two full tanks of gas, but no way to regulate them properly...


Double GRRR...

Tomorrow I'm going back and whittling them out with the plasma cutter...

-D.Idiot

Get a cam-operated stud remover from snap-on. Guess i'm lucky, broke no studs or stripped any threads during my last session this is due more to use of anti-seize the first time then my mechanical prowness..Dave

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Troops on the battlefield have a far better view of the battle then the generals who lead them

I guess a big honkin' easy-out doesn't ecessarily do much, even if you manage to drill through it, huh?

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'74 Duster w/ HEI ignition, beat to snot suspension, A904, 8.25" 3.55 SG rear, still being tuned up and gets 17 MPG

Know how they always build a better idiot? That's me