My 67 A100 Vans 225 finally crapped out on me and the engine is now at the shop awaiting the arrival of a new block and final component choices. Engine dropped #1 cylinder. Barely had 5psi vs the rest at over 100psi. Upon teardown I discovered the top ring had broken in pieces and had wore the groove into pockets of craters. Bore has bad wear. Also saw that the #3 bore had been resleeved. Was really worried that the wear in #1 cyl was beyond the largest rebore as it was already at .040".
Turns out that was'nt a problem. It's the sleeve and the fact there's a crack behind it that runs into the lifter bore! So we have a junk block
So I've got another block on it's way to the engine shop, have given instructions on what I want done.
My Intended Use: daily driver/ toy hauler/cruising A100 van w/727 and 3.55 gear. Want max torque especially at the 2000-3500 rpm range which is were I operate with tire/gearing combo with a top speed of maybe 85mph and around 3800-3900rpm. I've never rev'd it, or cruised at beyond 4000rpm.

What I have that's good:

Forged 1967 Truck Crank .010" under main/rod
Recent fresh 79 bone stock head 57cc chamber
225 Rods
Stock exhaust manifold 2 1/4" pipe all the way, turbo muff
2 barrel intake w/1970 318 BBD
Stock 12" converter (stall unknown, but not very
high-maybe 1200rpm or so)
3.55 rearend
3400lb van(brick wall)

What I want done: 9.25:1 CR, via flattop pistons, and required deck milling and either composite or steel head gasket. Shop will do what is required to get the ratio the right way.
I will pocket port the head, gasket match, they will 3 angle and back cut stock size valves.

Cam choice: Based on posts here and specs given on various cams, with my combo and intended use, I'm eyeballing the Comp Cams 264s grind, mainly because its readily available and the specs seem in line with my intentions) I have about 4 weeks to play with here as I will have the engine back and will be ready to assemble and get it back on the road.

Pros/cons on this cam, tips on centerlining, or based on my combo, better cam choices? Either off the shelf, or custom grinds?

Thanks!

I have an ISKY cam in mine and have been pleased with it. Can't remember what it is but it's not a big grind by any means.
My major problem has always been the dang carb I have.

Anyway, I think the cam I am using is listed in one of my back posts.
If I remember right it was a little bigger than stock. Runs really well in the mountains and when you need the power on the road.

Later,
dan

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"I may be slow, but at least I'm not very fast!"
'69 A108 - 225, 727, 3.55, MSD6AL, a.k.a.-the brick

The Comp 264 I had was "OK" but kinda underwhelming. It is pretty close to stock. It also ate 2 OPDGs.

I changed it out for an Erson 280/270 which I really like. My setup is similar to yours except bigger valves.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

The munched cam gear is a concern, I have what I believe is a good looking stock cam, no idea the specs, I can figure the lobe lift and that might give me an idea....and have been running (I installed)the hi-volume Melling pump on it for a couple of years, the gears look fine. If I could find a cam grinder around SC/NC I could have it reground as a cheap better alternative. That's a possibility. Sending it out to the west coast not so much.

With your rpm range and intended usage, I'd stick with something like the Erson RV10M or RV15M.

I run Doc's grind, RV15M RDP, it's very strong down low and in the mid-range. If you decide to go that route, PM Doc for his specs so you can get it set up right. The Erson folks are great, but some of the employees have moved on. Make sure your getting the right LSA from Doc.

Mine feeds a pretty big slant, so it's quite adequate with your setup, and still has very good street manners and towing capacity. (Though I finally cut the tow hitch off last year.)

2¢

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Oregon Cams, re-ground mine for $86 including return shipping. It cost me less than $110 with shipping both ways and they have a fast turn around time.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I may try Oregon just in case, what about the 260 and 268 Clifford research cams? I've read about being wary of them, but in any case, anyone have experoience with those cam grinds?

Clifford has so little experience building slants that they are a poor source for information. Clifford cams use old profiles which leave performance unrealized. Oregon Cam Grinding does excellent work and a regrind on known good core is safer for the oil pump drive gear than a new core. Erson has been supplying good cores though so they are also a good option.

Have you looked at the profiles Oregon can deliver? http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=191616 I pick and choose lobes from this list, choose my lobe centerline and have them grind exactly what I want. For $70 +tax with my core there is no reason for compromising with off-the-shelf grinds.

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Joshua

Yep, I got a 819 cam from OregonCams and it was probably the best cam I could hope for in that performance range. Stay away from Clifford, at all costs!!!! They can't build a slant to save their life. I think they might be acceptable for the other brands, but they keep selling hydraulic cams for solids and think that it's not big deal! Anyways, good luck!

2nd Docs version of the RV10 or RV15.

Get the oversize 1.70 and 1.44 valves from enginebuilder.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

There has been a lot of discussion about not being able to get a hold of Erson. I have had No trouble at all. The phone is always answered and John is ready and willing to talk.
My02.
Frank
PS John really is NOT knowleadgable on slants but he IS good on general cam questions.

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Being it's a Van/Truck...I'd be building for best torque to move that brick.
If compression is at 9.x:1, best choices would be Comp Cams 252 (other members have had problems with their cam's oil pump gear recently-so we can't recommend this one), RV10 or RV15 would be a good choice.

Good Luck,

-D.Idiot

Talked to Ken at Oregon and with my proposed setup he suggested the 218 grind with the stock 12" converter, or if I used a converter with about 2400 or so stall I could go with the 280 grind. Anyone with insight want to comment on those choices as well as what sort of converter woulod I be looking at in that stall range?? ANyhow, I will be sending them my core for SOMETHING

Don't ask a cam grinder for slant six cam advice! This should be stickied somewhere on the board. I dumped a prospective cam grinder when he told me about the historical information he was going to unearth before grinding my cam. No thanks. I don't want historic (ancient) levels of performance. Cam grinders don't build slants and don't know what a slant needs. Ken is very good at what he does, but he does not build slant sixes. Sorry to go on at length, but I feel strongly about this.

What I would do is use #819 for the intake lobe #818 for the exhaust lobe on 106° lobe centerline and install it at 102-104° intake centerline which is 2-4° advanced. That gives you 248/240° advertised duration, 219°/212° @ .050" tappet rise, .437"/.431" gross lift. The lash on those lobes is tight so it should be very quiet. The short duration and tight lobe centerline will make good torque and work well with the stock torque converter.

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Joshua

Speedy,

The 218 looks ok however, I had mine reground to the RV10 which is 254D and 435 lift per Doc's recommendation. It produces a lot of torque. Delta Cams in Tacoma reground mine for $35.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG