Ok I have the crank and the pistons in but I forgot which way the oil hole on the rod caps go, toward the freeze plugs ou cam. And is there a way to clean up the oil pick up tube & screen. Thanks for the help I'll be back for a cam choice.

Notch on the pistons crown goes forward. Rod caps have the bearing locating notches on the same side. The oil spurt hole in the rod is toward the cam.

Have the oil pickup tube hot tanked, but you may have to take it apart to get it completely clean. Doc posted a picture of this somewhere.

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Joshua

So far so good but still unclear on the rod cap. Does it matter which way it goes on. I didn't get them numbered when the rebuild was started.

Yes, it very much matters which way the cap goes on. The bearing notches in the cap and rod go on the same side. The caps are specific to each rod as well. You cannot mix and match without resizing the rod.

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Joshua

Ok that works for me. The piston set was balanced by a previous owner and then set to the rods and there all matched but apparently were never numbered. I just have to make sure we have the caps facing the right direction. Thanks for the help. Again.

If you have the caps mixed up you're going to have to take all the rods and caps to a machinist and have them figure out which cap belongs to which rod. If not you run the very real and likely scenario of wiping out rod bearings and damaging the crankshaft.

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Joshua

Thanks Josh. All the rods were taken out indiv. and left that way in a box. No one has touched them since except me and I kept them all together.

Yes... the cap / rod is honed to size once assembled and the fasteners torqued to the correct rating... and everything must get re-assembled that way... including the torque load used during the final honing operation.

With the cap / rod assembled, run your finger across the parting line... if you feel any mis-match or step, you have a problem that must be corrected before using the rod.
DD

There SHOULD be a matching stamp on both the rod and cap, to get them back on right, even if there's no numbers.

I have seen some that had no markings, but that's very rare.

Thanks for the great info. There are 4 of the rods numbered and I was the only one to dis and re assemnle them the ones that are not numberes have a part # on them 343. I had bought these from someone getting ready for a build and they changed plans. Looks like the pistons have been shaved to make the weights all as correct as possible as theres numbers written with a black marker on the sides. Next item on the list will be the cam, sounds like Oregon cams will be the choice there.

Rechecked and everything looks good and tight no mismatches on joints. I can see grind marks on rods and caps and they all line up. Going to do the torquing tomorrow. So now for a cam choice. I have a core if that helps. I have no knowledge on degreeing or how to use a wheel or any of the technicalities that go along with this. The engine specs are: opened .030, shaved .080, head also shaved .080 with large valves and a LOT of porting and polishing, new stiff springs(not double), oil mods done to block,crank ports chamfered, hurricane intake closely match ported, dual headers not yet ported unsure of brand they are shorts, so far stock auto/t conv, 8 3/4 rear unsure of gears with sbp axles, Rear tires are 275/60/15 on 15x10 cragers with a very fine air gap in the wheel well I would post a couple pics but not sure how

Bump. Remember last time I jumped on someones thread I got a lot of flack for asking this same question