I'll try to get you some photos. Thanks.

Sam

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The cross member is fairly easy to address, and could easily be fabicated if you wanted to do that. I bought mine from Keisler, and modified it to my specs and standards.

The Keisler cross member is fairly thin sheet metal, and not as robust as I wanted, so I laminated reinforcing skins on all sides. I could have pop riveted this on, but it was easy to take it to my welder friend who welded the reinforcing plates on.

Before the lower cross member was in place, the rear of the trans was supported by a jack stand, and shimmed up so the center line of the out put shaft was the same height as the measured and recorded stock trans center line. Then as I fit the cross member, I shimmed the trans mount, (which also came from Keisler) to the needed height. This guaranteed that the trans would sit at the same angle as the original Mopar unit.

It is important that the rear pinion angle match that of the front u joint when at rest. I purchased a simple angle finder from Home Depot to do this. It is has a small plumb bob kind of thing that hangs down inside a plastic case with angles degree markings printed on the back ground.

If I remember correctly, at the very start of the project, I supported the rear of the car on jack stands placed under the axles to it would hold the rear up in its normal, at rest position. Then I leveled the car out with the front jack stand placed under the uniframe where the torsion bar cross member intersects.

Again, through all of this, the wheels were left on the car. I saw no reason to take them off.

At some point later in the life of the car, I replaced the forward most rear spring support boxes with pieces from Andy F to lower the rear of the car, and adjusted the rear angle once again.

All of this measuring and angle finding was to eliminate any source of drive line vibration.

Don't hesitate to comment on your approach, or ask questions.

Sam

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So far I have not said much about the speedometer cable. I purchased one from Keisler, and it worked fine. However, the space needed to hook it up at the trans end is very tight. I am not sure you can make it work without modifying the cross member some. Maybe on some A body designes there is more room. This was why I made the upper cross member sit over further to the left when I fabricated it.

There are likely other companies that can make a cable for you, but Keisler is an easy solution.

When I went to the electronic speedo, which I have had a small complaint about , the cable issue was no longer a concern. They sell a module you plug into the trans that converts the mechanical motion of the gears on the tail shaft into an electronic signal. And then you use a wire harness between the two. I purchased the electron conversion module from Summit when I purchased the speedometer.

I will say that the quality of after market gauges has been very poor, in my experience. They are mostly made in China, and made to a price point that makes them borderline unreliable. I have had many of these gauges fail over the years. The stock Mopar units were not perfect, but they lasted 40 years with little trouble, and some of the after market gauges died immediately or within a few years.

I know old mechanical speedos can and do die as well. But just be aware that fixing an old mechanical speedometer may, in the long run be the better solution.

One thing I have not explored would be the possibility of adapting an OEM electronic speedo to the A body dash.

I will write one more installment about the general business of fabricating sheet metal shapes, since that is a big part of making this work and look nice.

FWIW, I have a Keisler conversion speedo I will sell to anyone who wants it. I do not think I will be going back in that direction any time.

Sam

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This is what I am interested in As I want to reatin the stock speedo in the Volare when I go o tht e t-5 but I have an electronic Speedo in my T-5 Anyway So it is of intrest to get this to work. I have seen this done on a bunch of hotrod t-5 conversions but never using a stock type speedo.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I bought a mechanical speedo cable from Keisler for $70 when I did my conv. It simply has a T5 end and a pre-67 Mopar screw in end. Yes, a little tight with the upper X member, but OK. Using stock speedo.

I good speedo shop can make a cable with any ends on it.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Used the same set-up as Lou,,No problem

You can also get the clip end cable from them too for the later speedo.

Lou, do you have the name of a speedo shop you can link us to. Thanks.

I'm thinking maybe the tighter clearance on my car for the cable was because I decided to raise the trans tail. That might be one reason to leave it down lower I suppose. Once I decided to raise it, and cut the upper cross member, it was no big deal to create more clearance.
Sam

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The speedo cable has been the biggest problem I have had with the T-5 conversion. I have been through two cables. They have both broken, due to bad routing, through the crossmember, and tunnel. I haven't figured out a good way of making this work yet.

The electronic pickup has been an option that I have been thinking of. I think the ford electronic pickup will work with the cable X speedo driver.

What is the cable X speedo driver?
Sam

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gmader sent me this link to a speedo shop that did his, a coupla years back.

http://www.a1electric.com/speedometer.htm

There are a few online too if you Google, or look at Mopar Action or similar mag ads.

I just Googled "custom speedometer cable" and got some hits. Here's one:

http://www.speedometersolutions.com/

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Cool Thanks Greg M. and Lou!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Ditto that!

Sam

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If you have some time you can do this

homemade bellhousing