Me quoting me:
[quote][quote]Quote:
My birthday present arrived this morning (Jan. 4) via Fed Ex. Soon the mystery cam will be uncloaked.[/quote]

Wife has liberated the degree wheel, wrapped it up with a bow, and said I can’t play with my new toy until the 15th… Crap!
And to think I complemented her for the foresight to select such a handy, and needed device… At which point she asked; “what’s that thing for?â€￾ [/quote]

Well Birthday present has been officially opened:
Tric Flow Cam Degreeing Kit with case; TFS 90000

[img]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm87/wjajr/Dart%20Engine/100_1365.jpg[/img]

Now to go pull valve cover, and get this new rigging strapped on, and figure out what secretes my little sweetie has been keeping from me since Febuary 2008…

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Very nice wife. That should keep you busy!

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Did you figure out the specs yet?

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Ed,

I have to acquire a few bolts, and a bit 1/8thâ€￾ plate to fabricate a stable platform to mount the dial indicator’s crane, than the fun begins.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Disclaimer: I wish someone was here to observe this procedure as I went through the various steps.

I’m listing the data in the order that the directions prescribed.

Actual TDC dead center determined by use of a piston stop is indicated at Zero on the little timing tab attached to the chain cover. So my timing marks are right on. After setting the degree wheel’s zero mark to engine’s TDC I checked for Max lift or center line of intake @ 0.050â€￾

Intake
144.5* + 54* = 198.5*
198.5*/ 2 = 99.25*
Intake Theoretical Center Line = 99.25 degrees

Start of intake ramp 71*
Open & closing at 0.050â€￾:
Before full lift opening @ 0.050â€￾ = 15.5*
After full lift closing @ 0.050â€￾ = 142*
End of ramp closing = xxx* (pulled lifter out of socket, yet to get it back in place. Love those Peanut Heads!)

Intake Lift @ lifter: 0.322â€￾
Gross lift at valve 0.322 x 1.5 = 0.483â€￾
With 0.024â€￾ lash = 0.459â€￾

Exhaust:
@ 0.050â€￾ before full lift = 158*
@0.050â€￾ after full lift = 69*
158* + 69* = 227*
227* / 2 = 113.5*
Theoretical Center line, or Max lift = 113.5 Degrees

Beginning of ramp 75*
Beginning ramp @ 0.050â€￾ = 128*

End of ram fully closed = 70*
End of ramp @ 0.050â€￾ = 5*

Total lift at lifter = 0.325â€￾
Gross lift at valve = 0.325â€￾ x 1.5 = 0.487â€￾
Lashed Lift at valve = 0.487â€￾ – 0.026â€￾ = 0.461â€￾

I’m not sure how to calculate duration & overlap.

Not sure how I’m going to get that tipped over Dog Bone type lifter back in to its socket with out pulling the head. Any ideas welcome.
Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

After a comedy of errors during a valve adjustment involving a dropped 3/8 wrench and a retrieval magnet, I just did this on a 83 Dodge van yesterday. Pull the spark plug, plug tube, and pushrods from the area directly above the lifter. You will likely need to pull the rocker shaft too. Drop the lifter down into the gallery bottom end down. Now, using a weak magnet on an extension, or using a pushrod or two, and maybe a long thin screwdriver, carefully maneuver the lifter until it is sitting on top of its hole. Now press down until the lifter drops back into its happy home. Put it all back together and you are done.

If I can do this on the #1 exhaust lifter of a slant six in a 83 Dodge van, then you can definitely do this in any A body with a hood that opens.

With a peanut head, you will need to pull it to reinstall the lifter.

If you come up with a method that works, I'd love to learn it!

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Reed: Me quoting me: Not much room to maneuver in a 9/16" hole, no drool tubes. Lucky it is #1 intake so I can get to either side of it.

Perhaps a home made electromagnet will be able to right it...

It has been one of those days; three steps ahead, two back--- all in slow-mo.

CJ,
I'll come up with something, last thing I want to do is pull that stinking head.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I like it! Home made electromagnet, and a bore scope! You might be able to pull it off!

Of course, with the head off, you'll be able to CC the head, check how far down the hole your pistons are and stuff.

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

It involves a stock noodle pushrod...and a bit of "sticky" goo to the end of the rod...

Worst case scenario...pull push rod from the neighboring lifter and use a slightly curved piece of coat hanger to help probe it in place...

Might have to make this a game at the BBQ...see who can get the lifter back in the hole...after some high octane...

-D.Idiot

Good idea DI!
The yard down 99 near Eugene has a bunch of Slants available for $125 a piece. I'll grab a couple and we can set them up on stands at the BBQ!
"Nope, you dropped it. Gotta take a swig!"

Hopefully Bill isn't out breaking the head bolts loose as we type!

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

CJ:
[quote]Of course, with the head off, you'll be able to CC the head, check how far down the hole your pistons are and stuff. [/quote]


Got all that jazz recorded when I super sized the valves:
44cc head, cut 0.075â€￾ head, piston down in hole 0.153â€￾, 0.030â€￾ over, 9.5:1 CR, and stuff.

CJ:
[quote]Hopefully Bill isn't out breaking the head bolts loose as we type![/quote]

Not tonight, I've had it for today. Tomorrow I'll renew my fish'in license, and have at it.

Crap, it's tomorrow all ready. So I get to it later this morning.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I'm trying to decipher your numbers using the calculator in the Dyno2000 program.

Numbers aren't making sense.

Your intake duration seems too small with too much lift, and the exhaust seems duration seems too long (lift about right).

Can't figure out what numbers to put into program.


It wants:
Intake Valve open as degrees Before TDC
Intake valve close as degrees After BDC (bottom dead center)
Exhaust valve open Before BDC
Exhaust valve close After TDC


Can you translate to these figures?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Whoops, I missed the peanut head part. If you are really really good, you could get a small magnet on a long stick (like those 1/8 inch diameter retrieval magnets), stick the magnet in the cup of the lifter, snake it through the hole, look through the other pushrod hole, get the lifter in the bore, then use a long stick or screwdriver to get the magnet off the lifter. Otherwise it is head pulling time. Sorry.

How about one of those "push the button to open the fingers" pick-up tools

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing