Ok, I've got a 75 dart w/ a 225. I read an article on identifying /6 motors which stated that on a forged crank engine, the rib behind the water pump should start out thin and get thicker as it goes towards the engine. My rib is a constant thickness from water pump to motor. Does this mean I have a cast crank motor?? I hope not.

Also, is the casting number located next to the freeze plug holes? If so, the number is pretty weird - "330-3". All the photos I've seen of /6 blocks show a seven digit casting number, and the chart on this site does not show any three digit numbers. I believe this engine also has the aluminum intake, going by the fact that beneath the paint it's silver.

Is there anything else I can check to positively identify this thing, without pulling the oil pan and looking at the crank? Thanks.

You've got a "30" block. This was the last generation with the forged crank. I have one in the basement now that came out of a 76 Dart Lite. Do a search for Dart Lite, you should be able to find the old thread when I bought this block. Check the block deck on the front passenger side. It should be stamped "225R'. I wouldn't bore it more than 0.060, but other than that, there's nothing wrong with them.

_________________
Gilly

1960 Dodge Pioneer
"Long Rod" /6, A833 Pistol grip Hurst
8 3/4" w/Suregrip and 3:91's
Still have more parts in boxes than on the car....

Sweet! Thanks.

pretty much as 60pioneer said, the pad is usually buried under los of gunk behind the alternator mount where the head sits on the block....

If you should find the pad says 225E...it'll be a cast crank motor, if the engine is 'numbers matching' to the car it'll be a forged crank motor....


-D.Idiot

Is this pad viewable with the motor still in the car?

Yes, you can see it with the engine in the car but as DI said, it will take some cleaning to find it. Sometimes the alternator is in the way and it helps to pull the belt and swing it down.

On some late blocks, these numbers were stamped onto the side of this rail, further back near the rear, those are hard to read with the engine in the car.
DD

" 225R "

Woohoo! A forged crank it is!

The cast crank motor that I have is stamped 225R also. But then there is an E that is stamped after the date code.

Is "E" the code for all cylinders being bored .020" oversize from the factory? I don't remember anymore.

Craig,

The Mopar Performance slant six racing manual says "The cast crank engines can be identified by an E stamped next to the engine number"

Cast cranks engines are also tough but if you are going to build up a Slant, it's best start with a forged crank engine.
Just watch-out for the ones stamped like this...
DD

I'll be on the lookout!

So, which is it? I have "225R" stamped on the engine deck, does that mean it's forged or should I look after the date code too?

And has anyone done any testing to see exactly how much stronger the forged cranks are than the cast ones? The Ford 2.3L turbo motor has a cast crank but people have gotten that little motor to put out 700HP on the stock crank, without problems!

Ok, I don't remember what it is but there is a code letter for all cylinders bored .020" oversize from the factory. I have/had one or two enignes like that.

The 1961 R series (Dodge, Lancer, Dart) parts catalog in the engine section says
A for Bore .020 Larger than standard
B for Main and Connecting Rod Bearings .010 smaller than standard
"AB" for both conditions

Also says numbers in circular pads at either end of the engine number
are for inspectors and not connected with the engine number.

Anyone else have this info in the engine section of your parts books?
I am curious if the letters used vary by model year.

I have a slant 6 with raised numbers 2202843 by the freeze plugs (3). I was trying to find out the year and application of the engine. It is currently in my 1954 chevy truck that I just acquired from my cousins farm. It has three freeze plugs and single barreled carburetor. It has a 3 speed manual transmission hooked to it.

earl