i have a 64 valiant with a rebuilt motor.
the valves have been set properly, timing,new plugs,leads,
points and condenser checked, new carb ,fuel pump. compression test
all done by a mechanic. yet... it idles poorly once it is warm.
it feels like it is missing. mechanic doesn't know what is wrong.
he says the heat riser seems stuck (without fixing it)
also it has the original gas tank in it probably crud in it but it idles ok when cold,
crappy when warm.

i am not happy with the mechanic keeps giving me a bill never fixes the problem

so..........fix the heat riser........or jam it open so it idles nicely warm....and poorly when cold.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Re-check the valve lash adjustment.
If the mechanic noted above did the adjustment, it may not be correct.

3 things to note when adjusting solid lifter SL6 valve lash.
-The adjustment must be done hot.
-Two intake valves are "side-by-side" at the center of the engine.
-A little loose is better then a little too tight.

If this is a recently rebuilt engine, I would warm it up, retorque the head bolts and then do another lash adjustment, using a different mechanic.
DD

How about carburetor adjustments? Making sure the choke is opening all the way, making sure the idle air mixture screw is adjusted properly... a lean idle mix can be covered up while the engine is cold because of the choke. Once the choke is off, the mix may be too lean, causing the engine to run roughly and "miss". Finding a mechanic nowadays who is knowledgeable with carburetors is becoming increasingly hard to do.

Where is this carburetor from? Is it a remanufactured piece from an auto parts store?

~RDE~

_________________
1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Use a 3/8" box-end mechanic or a 3/8" socket mechanic.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll go 3rds on the valve lash adjustment. When I got my '66 Barracuda it idled just okey cold and badly when warm. I thought the carburetor was junk until I found the exhaust lash at .010". When the engine warmed up the exhaust lash was inadequate and the compression leaked right out the exhaust valves.

Maybe I should do a valve lash video so people can see how easy it is to do.

_________________
Joshua

Excellent idea! since it keeps coming up.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

I wonder what type of carb it is, a Carter or a Holley?
DD

i will check what kind of carb it is.
fiddling with the heat riser did not seem to do anything
the valve lash vid would be great!

A valve lash video would be wonderful, but it just takes practise to get a "feel" for a running lash adjustment... My slant idles a bit rough when hot and my bet is on the valve lash being a bit too tight, since it was last adjusted at a luke-warm temperature

so the valves should be adjusted to .011 when hot?

To get a very steady idle, good mileage, etc..... set at .012 on the intake and .022 on the exhaust.
Factory specs are .010 and .020.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

sweet