http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/dyadstba.html

anyone out there using these?

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

I am using these on my '64 Dart. They are from capautoproducts.com.

I have about 8k street miles (with spirited twisties driving) on these and no problems yet. I was not happy with the aluminum studs supplied to go through the LCA, so I bought some allthread rod from mcmaster.com and made my own attaching studs topped off with double jam nuts. When I talked with Raymond at CAP later, he said they could supply them with that setup rather than the lighter alum (drag race) studs. Also, the weight savings is more like 2-3 lbs total (not per side) over stock rods/bushings.

I would order them from Raymond directly at CAP and have a chat with him.

If you have a car that is not highly developed, I would spend your money somewhere else, like wheels and tires or a front sway bar, or offset UCA bushings and an alingment. The stock strut rods and and MOOG problem solver bushings are very good, if not bent or damaged. I personally have never bent or broken one.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, what's been your experience with this kind of strut rod from the vibration/harshness/noise perspective? My front-end guy refused to install the ones I bought from Reilly, saying I'd hate them, I'd feel and hear every crack in the road, etc. I've never tried them so I don't know; I was pissed off he didn't bother having that discussion with me before making a decision without my input but I'm curious what others' experience has been.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi Dan,

On my cars, I really cannot tell the difference between these and stock, as far as feel/noise goes. Granted, my cars are much noisier and stiffer than I believe yours to be. I can say that travel through the suspension arc, with these properly adjusted, has less drag/binding than with a stock rubber setup. I expect they hold the LCA more precisely fore and aft (not explicitly tested). These ideas lead me to believe that they should not affect ride harshness.

I know that Sam Powell has the Reilly setup on his '69 Dart and you cannot hear them. People say you might hear the Heims tapping away as you hit bumps, but that must be on fairly worn Heims. That car rides nicely and is quieter than mine, and he is more picky than I about noise. He has not complained, IIRC. So, I'd say it's worth a try for you.

I have the Reilly setup in my Valiant "Project V" which is, up to now, race only. I think those are stronger than the CAP setup. I have seen no wear on those with all its severe service (no long street miles, tho).

For a standard street car, the Reilly setup should be more durable, but slightly heavier (like 1-2 lb overall). I cut and threaded some stock strut rods for my Reilly setup. Since then (2003) he will sell them with tubular rods, which is what I would buy now. Reilly's are not "dynamically adjustable" like the CAP units (LH and RH thread tubes), but it is not hard to pull the cross bolt and adjust fore/aft when assembling the suspension.

Thanks for asking,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks for the comeback, Lou.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.