I recenty purchased a new alterator (two field wires) and a new reglator (Standard VR 128). The regulator instructions do not tell you where the field wires go. There is a threaded post on it but with no markings. I don't want to assume anything so any advice is appreciated.

Thank you

Sounds like you are working on a 1969 or earlier car. The VR-128 regulator will go directly in place of the original regulator, which has two wires running to it. One held on with a small screw, the other a push-on ¼" spade terminal. Simply attach the existing wires to the matching terminals on the regulator (threaded stud gets the wire that was held to the old regulator with a screw).

Attach a ¼" female spade terminal to one end of a short piece of 16ga wire. Push it onto one of the new alternator's field terminals (does not matter which one). Ground the other end of this wire securely. This adapts the 2-field alternator for use in the earlier 1-field car. Then attach the car's one and only field wire to the other (ungrounded) alternator field terminal and the car's main charge wire to the alternator's threaded B+ output stud.

Attach a 1/4" ring terminal to one end of a 14ga wire. Find the empty round hole labelled "GRD" on the back of the alternator housing. Attach the ring terminal + wire to that hole with a short(!) self-tapping screw that holds the ring terminal firmly to the alternator. Run this wire to the voltage regulator base and secure it there by one of the mounting screws (loop the wire for quick 'n' easy, attach a ring terminal for neat and tidy). From the other regulator mounting screw, run another length of wire to the battery negative terminal. This puts the whole charging system on the same ground plane and eliminates flickery charging.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Personally I would dump the old style VR for a newer one. If you read the text and decide to upgrade to electronic ignig, you will need the newer style VR. Here's the text. Good Luck http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Elec ... arging.htm

The VR-128 he's got is an excellent electronic regulator. There is no reason to dump it or rewire the charging system.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I do have electronic ignition, but I believe that this one was recommended somewhere on this site.

Dan- I know you can be thick skulled and set in your ways at times which is fine, it's what makes you unique. The VR128 may be a fine VR, but I feel that the new style is so much more superior than the black box style, I get a better and truer reading on the ammeter with the new style. To each their own. JMHO
Bing- let me quote what they say about VR's and Elec. ignig,

Early Charging System modified for use with a 70 style VR

"There are a number of reasons one might want to upgrade a per-1970 system to a transistorized voltage regulator. The list of reason include

Chrysler recommends you switch to a transistorized VR if you upgrade to an electronic ignition from a points style ignition.
If you have to buy a new voltage regulator, the difference in cost is only about $5-10 more for the transistorized unit. Not to mention, the quality of replacement early style VR's is spotty.
The transistorized VR will have a longer life. "
There's no real butchering of the wiring system doing this conversion if you study what you have and what needs to be done, it's your car, do whay ya want.

Thanks, 69a100, that's very sweet of you.

The regulator he's bought is already "transistorized" (electronic, actually these days they're made with integrated circuits, i.e., chips), so there's no real advantage to changing to a different style of electronic regulator.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Personally I've found the ground side switching (NPN transistor) on the later style regulator to be a little more robust than positive side (PNP) on the early - replacement type. Also the later type is a bit more common/ easier to locate. But only IF your parts place has a good supplier. Last time I got a later type regulator it was from Standard (made in china,) & had a hot setpoint of 14.9V -at the regulator.. So I got one from Echlin - it was the same unit (made in china) with the same battery -frying setpoint

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

New old stock Mopar American-made later-type regulators can be bought all day long from Old Car Parts Northwest.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's where I got my NOS alternator. Unfortunately replacing both those items didn't solve the problem. I decided to upgrade the ignition from the orange box to HEI. So I took it to this mechanic down the street who said he used to work on Chryslers. After he made the conversion I had electrical problems- turn signal indicator didn't light up, flickering lights, no high beams. I took it back and he said there was something wrong with the alternator. I bought a new alternator and regulator. Nothing changed. He said it was the battery. Bought a new battery. Nothing changed. I said put back the orange box set up. It ran fine before. I haven't heard from him since Friday.

Your guy is incompetent. There is nothing about an ignition retrofit done properly that should've caused miscellaneous electrical faults such as you describe. It is likely you'll find the problem at the firewall (bulkhead) multi-wire connection, where a bunch of wires organized into two or three plastic blocks connect on the firewall to pass into the interior of the car (where there are similar plastic blocks containing the in-car ends of those same connected wires). Carefully remove each of the plastic blocks from the engine side of the firewall disconnect. Use a screwdriver to lift the locking tabs at top and bottom and pull the connector away from the firewall. Inspect it to make sure all the terminals are clean and not corroded, and that they all stick out the same amount. Inspect the socket slots on the firewall for corrosion or looseness. Apply a good electrical contact cleaner-conditioner such as Stabilant-22 or Copr-Shield or another good brand to each terminal, then firmly reinstall each connector so that it is all the way pushed on, and the lock tabs have clicked into position. That will probably solve your random electrical gremlins. If not, look for places where the underhood wiring has been "touched" lately. Look for splices, new tape or sleeve, crimp-type connectors, etc. That is where to focus your attention when faced with having to clean up after an incompetent wiring job.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Is the 2 pin, triangle, VR connector available for this 'upgrade'?

Maybe on the HELP shelf in an auto store

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1970 Valiant.. my sons Daily Driver
1975 CJ5, fiberglass body,350/345Hp chevy
1985 chevy stepside pickup, Original Owner
1989 Volvo 240: Original Owner
OTHER TOYS: http://home.no.net/ebrox/Tony's%20cars.htm

Pigtail is NAPA Echlin VRC-38 or Standard S573 or Dorman 85126.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The blue size female bullets work well if you have any of those handy. I recall them fitting snuggly.