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PostPosted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 10:00 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:36 pm
Posts: 9
Location: NE Ohio
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Ok I have put points and condensor on, and today got it running again as far as the timing with the dizzy went. Used a timing light it was about 10 past TDC while running. Shut it off, backed it out of the garage to clean up, and heard a somewhat loud tap or knock and it shut off? tried to start it and it did the same thing. I just put a new Dist drive gear on. Any ideas? it was running a little bit ago, now it wont start. Any ideas? thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:04 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
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Lets back up and verify things. Does the rotor still turn when you crank the engine? Was the distributors clamp tight or loose? Did the points close up?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 12:23 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
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Quote:
Ok I have put points and condensor on, and today got it running again as far as the timing with the dizzy went. Used a timing light it was about 10 past TDC while running.
That's about 15° retarded. You're shooting for a setting of about 5° before TDC.
Quote:
heard a somewhat loud tap or knock and it shut off? tried to start it and it did the same thing. I just put a new Dist drive gear on. Any ideas? it was running a little bit ago, now it wont start. Any ideas? thanks
Start with the basics: pop the distributor cap off and verify that the rotor's turning when you crank the engine with the starter. How did you install the new distributor drive pinion? Did you use the pre-drilled hole in it, or did you drill a new one?

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:53 am 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 8:36 pm
Posts: 9
Location: NE Ohio
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I drilled a new hole for the gear, I got it running once again. I have it set at 0 TDC with the timing light. she ran strong and now the automatic choke on the exhaust manifold is killing it every time it starts (that rod and spring on the exhaust manifold) and no place sells them. I walk into places and its like asking if they have a part for a stage coach. SO I found one on ebay and am going to try that. The search and repair continues.....


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:29 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 12:58 pm
Posts: 569
Location: New Jersey USA
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how is the heat riser valve (exhaust "choke") killing it? It's job is to deflect hot exhaust gas up against the intake during cold run operation. If it sticks "shut" it can cause restricted performance above idle & ping when hot. Stuck open & you get carb icing when it's cold & wet out. It can't cause a starting poroblem.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:22 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 24, 2009 5:19 pm
Posts: 310
Location: New Hampshire
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No one has said anything about the heat riser valve-only the choke. Re-read the posting. He said the one on the manifold-not in the manifold

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe


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