Both my A-bodies have clutch pedals that don't return well. I've added extra springs to the clutch fork. I got a new overcenter spring from a board member, but haven't installed it in the slant six car yet. The 340 car just got a Centerforce clutch, but the pedal is still not returning without a helping toe. Anyone have experience with this situation?

You should have an overcenter spring on a car with an original type clutch. Without it the clutch will require more effort. If the clutch pedal is not returning it may be that linkage is binding or there are non-stock parts in the linkage changing the geometry.

The Centerforce equipped car will probably need to have pedal travel limited to keep the clutch fingers from being depressed too far. Most diaphragm clutches operate easily enough that an overcenter spring is not needed and may in fact overpower the diaphragm spring.

_________________
Joshua

I was thinking (conjecture) that the overcenter spring helped the pedal to return to the resting height. You're saying it helps in the effort to depress the clutch?
Then what returns the pedal to its resting position?

If you look closely at the pedal as it moves through its travel you'll see the over center spring helps return the pedal only as it's almost at the top of it's travel. Once the pedal goes down much the over center spring assists in depressing the pedal. The springs in the clutch cover counteract the over center spring or more accurately, the over center spring partially overcomes the clutch cover springs.

_________________
Joshua

Josh gives a pretty good description. To that I'll add, just remember why it's called an "overcenter" arrangement. At the center of the geometry, the spring essentially does nothing (except wear the shaft with excess radial pressure). Below a certain point, it helps push the clutch down. Above a certain point, it helps pull the pedal all the way up.

The problem is this: when you let up on the pedal, it isn't quite getting up as far as the center point, so the spring can't go "overcenter" to change its operating mode. As soon as you pull up on the pedal with your toe, it suddenly bangs the rest of the way up, right?

If you slightly lengthen the adjustment rod that contacts the clutch fork, all will be well. As you do so, your clutch engagement position will rise a tiny bit higher off the floor. But you'll be surprised at what a small difference it requires... keep lengthening a turn or two at a time, until suddenly when you try the pedal you feel that it wants to return. Then lengthen it one more turn for good measure, so it returns solidly.

It can feel like a new car again.

Oh, and if you wonder why it's changing its adjustment, or if you adjust and it helps for a little while but then pulls the same trick... look at the torque shaft (sometimes called Z-bar) carefully to see if it's failing. I've had to weld reinforcements on a couple of those. After years and years, the arms literally twist off the tube. (Somewhere I've got 35mm photos I could scan, but when you look closely, it's pretty obvious.)

- Erik

_________________
Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

On another note, less is more, years ago my first Dart, a 273-3 on the tree 270 model had this same clutch peddle hang up just before its high resting point requiring a little encouragement with one’s toe to fully pop up the rest of the way. I purchased this four year old car with 50,000 miles on the clock, and drove it to 136,000 miles where it dissolved in a salty puddle of melted ice one spring day.

For as long as I owned the car, the clutch would give a little chirping sound when connecting with fly wheel. It was one of my fears when purchasing this car that I would be in for a clutch job; that was one repair that never happened as the 136 K clutch would still spin the tires when the car was scraped.

I do recall making several clutch rod adjustments over the miles, but never got the peddle to fully return most times on its own, I say most times because full throttle side step of the left peddle would always return it to its proper resting place, and generate a 20 foot black mark under the right side of the trunk…

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks, I'm a gonna try this on both Barracudas.

_________________
/6 '67 Barracuda convertible, electronic ignition, 4-OD, street cam, SBP KH discs, 3.55 SG 7.25" 1" t-bars. Bilstein.
340 '67 fastback, Doug Nash 5-speed.
1988 Toyota pickup work truck