I'm looking for a set of the high strength 220000 ARP head studs and I was hoping maybe some more members may need some as well
Charrlie S maybe its time for another group buy!!!!

Thanks Aaron

Call Jason at ARP. He is the contact if you want to conduct a group buy. We did one a year ago.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... highlight=

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Slant 6 head stud kits also appear to be available on Ebay.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou these are rated at 200000 which is good but I'm looking for the higher strength ones
Aaron

I'm still not clear on why people think they need these. If you're blowing head gaskets, you have other problems.

IIRC, Cameron Tilley's 630 HP, 700 ft-lb Slant 6 (up to 23 psi) uses stock head bolts... I definitely remember that his 370 HP NA 12:1 motor does. If he does use studs on the turbo motor, they will not be any different than that std ARP kit.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I probably shouldn't be posting on this subject, but my thinking is this:

To begin with, the /6 only has 4 head bolts per cylinder; a more desirable design would have at least 5 (small block Chevy V8, for example.)

The oem head bolts are only 7/16", and efforts to increase the diameter to 1/2" creates problems of not enough "meat" in the block, for half-inch threads, because of the 7/16" threads that are already there.

So, we are stuck with 7/16"-diameter studs.

I have a friend whose engine makes 500+ HP with approximately 25 pounds of boost. He swears by an accurate O2 sensor, and rigorously keeps his engine rich enough (11:1) to stave off any hint of detonation.

He runs a boost referenced meth injector, has a large air-to-air intercooler, and runs racing (high-octane) fuel. His ignition timing is set at 18 degrees of advance.

His engine is O-ringed.

STILL, his head gasket was showing evidence of "lifting" after drag strip runs, with the 180,000 (garden variety) psi. ARP studs, that had been carefully torqued in 5 ft. lb. increments.

He installed the 220,000 psi (more expensive) studs and has run his car since the new studs were installed, with no signs of lifting and no blown head gasket.

I am prone to concluding that these stronger ARP studs work. At least, so far.

Bill

Thanks Bill for the post that's great info
Aaron

Bill,

Thanks for your thoughts and experience. Glad you felt you could speak freely.

Just to clarify, is your friend running a Slant 6? Are you speaking of Ryan P? Otherwise, I'm not aware of this particular Slant 6 drag car, and would be interested to learn more about it.

Also, are people just torquing to the ARP specs, or going a bit higher? I pretty much "overtorque" every fastener I come in contact with, and have not had an engine fastener failure due to this. My stock head bolts always go to at least 80 ft-lbs.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Hi Lou,

No, I was talking about Tom Wolfe's car, the engine in which is virtually identical to Ryan's. There are detail differences, but overall, they are pretty much identical. He told me he torqued the ARP high-tensile-strength head studs to 81 foot pounds. We did the same, with ours.

Bill

OK, thanks Bill. I may try to talk to Tilley again on this subject.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks, Lou. I'd be very interested in what he has to say. We are novices in this activity, and welcome any information relative to this problem. Please pass on anything Cameron might have to say that is pertinent. We'd really appreciate it!

Bill