I've been working on upgrading my 65 Barracuda from drums to disc brakes from a 1974 Duster for a few years now. Since I needed to replace the upper control arms, I thought I might as well put new front-end parts in while I was at it. I bought a kit from Just Suspensions (or at least I think I did - it's been a while) and the job got a little bit bigger than just a brake upgrade (mission creep). Now that my kids are ready to start driving, I'm going to get my car back on the road this spring.

Anyway, the reason I've started a new topic was because I had a couple of questions about reassembling the parts.

Question 1
There is no indication on the package or in the instructions which is an outer or inner tie-rod end. My understanding is that the outer TRE has a right hand thread. Is this correct?

Question 2
Although I don't drive my car during the winter, corrosion is still something I would like to avoid. I had intended to coat the eccentric cams and threads in the upper control arm bushings with lots of anti-seize compound. However, the mechanic in the alignment shop recommended against this. I just don't want the adjustment to become seized in later years. Are there any best practices for preventing corrosion in the eccentric cams?

Question 1; I don't believe it would make a bit of difference. The ultimate goal is to get the correct length between the two, to end up with correct spindle geometry.

Question 2; I suggest you ask him to explian his reasoning. There might be a plausible explanation for not adding anti-sieze to it, but I'd be a hard sell as to why not.

Roger

The only reason that I wanted to make sure that the tie-rod ends were placed correctly was to make sure that it would simple to get replacement parts when they wore out. It's easier to get it sorted out now than later when I might have ordered a inner when I needed an outer.

As for anti-seize, I think it might have something to do with correctly torquing the bolts. It's funny that he told me that a light coating was OK but slathering it on would be bad. I thought the nut would wipe off any excess. I was hoping that coating the sliding surface of the eccentric cams wouldn't make them more liable to slip after hitting a deep pothole. I'm with the Big Block Dodge guys on anti-seize: more is better and too much is just enough.

Cool on the kids driving. My son took his driving test in the Valaint with a 5 speed.....his hair was the same colour as the car....he passed first time.

I always found I had to get new eccentric bolts everytime I had the car apart. Do you have poly or rubber UCA bushings? The poly seem to not care what I drool on them.....the rubber seem more fussy.

I dont see how Nevr-Seas would hurt anything .........

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I got the following parts from Just Suspension:

• PSK3173SSAK - Street/Strip Suspension Kit
• HDW13197A - Cam Bolt
• HDW5249609 - Torsion Bar Boots/Clips

I think the JS suspension kit uses Energy Suspension polyurethane control arm bushings. Mine are black.

I used those same bushings an eon ago.....lots of goo added......no problems.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I've seen left & right hand thread tie rod ends in either position from the factory. The only difference is when you have to order a single replacement part. ( the "book" might specify I or O, but you have to make sure it's L or R thread)

I would definitely use anti seize, but only only on the shank of the eccentric bolt to the bushing, not the threads (maybe low grade threadlocker) ,& not between the bushing sleeve & the body mount.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I wasn't worried about the anti-seize on the bushings but rather with the threads on the cam bolts and under the cams. Does it make a real difference to the torque spec (65 ft-lbs) or to the ability of the cams to hold their position?

As for thread-locker, I'm not sure if this is a good idea for these bolts and the FSM doesn't mention it.

I don't doubt that the factory wasn't really careful about how the tie-rod ends were installed. I've got the chance to install them properly and it would be easy to do if I knew which end was which.

Sandy - Are you saying you used lots of anti-seize everywhere?

I use never seize everywhere.

The cam bolt threads are never likely to come lose......even when you want them to.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

My guess is that he was afraid that any lube in thew cam area itself will make the cams susceptible to sliding out of adjustment.

I'd fill the inside of the sleeve, wipe off the excess, and then spray the crap out of the area with WD-40 after the alignment.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

inners are left hand thread and outers are right hand thread. easy to remember.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

I checked with Napa and they also confirm outer is RH thread and inner is LH thread.

Most antiseize IS a pretty good (pressure) lubricant, so if a critical fastener - like a suspension bolt - has a dry thread torque spec then I'd be hesistant to muck with it by lubing it up alot. Most eng fasteners with "oiled" specs have a much different value if you used something like molylube.

I was suggesting weak threadlocker because it will "fill" the thread to nut gap & help keep out water /rust.

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I talked with the alignment mechanic this afternoon and got some clarification on the anti-seize. He only doesn't want it on the cam bolt threads because it could affect torque. He said that it would be OK to oil or grease the threads though.

As for anti-seize elsewhere, although he doesn't like the stuff, he thought it would be a good idea between the bolt and the bushings, ie everywhere but the threads. He also didn't see any problem with putting some under the eccentric cams. If the bolts were properly torqued, he didn't think that the anti-seize would allow the cams to move out of alignment with a good bump.

Someone uses a torque wrench on cam bolts? Amazing...

Lou

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