i know this is a electrical 101 question but here it is. when you have power at the + post and no power at the - post coil is good. but when you have power at + and the - post coil is probably bad right?

Simple test of coil here.

How a coil works and what you are testing when using a VOM here. A coil is nothing but a transformer where primary (low voltage) to secondary (high voltage) ratio of windings determines how much impute voltage as stepped up. Kind of like a lever & fulcrum is to mechanical advantage.

Brake one of those wires, or short them out, and it won't work. Keep in mind sometimes heat or vibration will cause coil conductors to fail, but when unit is cold it will test as good.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It would help if we knew if you have a points system or electronic.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

electronic distributer for a 83 d150 225 its a cordone model.

The only time the minus (-) of the coil will have zero volts is when the electronic ignition is triggered by the distributor (it has to be turning). It will show plus 12 volts on the coils minus terminal if the engine is not running. Same with points-if the points are open you get +12 volts on the minus terminal and zero when they are closed.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

okay so as the truck is not running and the ignition key on i will have power at all both terminals got it. so any clue on why it wouldn't start right off the bat. i'm going to take a video and pics of my set up and try to explain everything i have done and then i'm sure every one will have lots of troubleshooting for me. thanks for that explanation.

I take it that your truck does not start-what are your symptoms? Does it crank but not start until you let go of the key? Do you have spark at the distributor's center wire? Do you have "Lean Burn"?

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

Do you have the spark control computer mounted on the air-breather? If so, ignore everything I wrote below the dashed line and strongly think about doing the HEI conversion. You will need an older distributor if this is the case, but they are relatively easy to pick up (and just do yourself a favor and replace the gear before you install it).

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Could be the Ignition module... many autoparts stores will test them for free. I know O'Reilly's up in Rolla used to but I've heard rumors that they don't anymore. I would call around the parts stores down in the St. Robert area to see if any of them will. I've always been told to make sure they test it several times in a row; that will build the heat up a little to make sure it's not failing at operating temperature.

Could also be the pick-up coil. A simple resistance check is all that's needed. I don't remember the factory spec (it's been a while), but I'm sure someone else on the board can provide it.

Could also be any other number of things, but I would check those two first.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

well i appreciate it. but it seems to have started after i ran a jumper wire to a good engine ground. who would have known!!

Wait, you ran a wire from the negative side of the coil to ground???

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Joshua

sorry ill clarify i ran a jumper wire from the module hold down bolt to a better ground.

Great-ground is good!

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

Thanks for the link to "Coil Testing". I tried it on the newer style high energy coil out of a 97 GMC and got results not close to those expected in the article. Any more thoughts on this? Thanks

Just now found this.

1.Circuit labeled A -Pink Wire:
Power (12 V) Circuit.

2.Circuit labeled B -White Wire:
Tach Signal for the Tachometer in the Instrument Cluster if equipped.

3.Circuit labeled C -White with Black stripe Wire:
Switching Signal Circuit. This wire (circuit) comes from the Ignition Module.

Would #3 wire be coil neg? Thanks

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg