They even gave me grief about having anti-seize on my wheel lug bolts and it's been years since I used it.

I used to have a heck of a time getting the nuts loose in the old days, back when knights were bold and women weren't particular. I never had trouble with overtightening lug nuts on the old steel wheels afterwards and they never came loose either.

Anyway, I just figured the cam nuts just snugged up when the alignment was done. Can you realistically overtighten the cam nuts?

I took another look at the my tie-rod assemblies and noticed that the sleeves are marked with an "L" on the inner tie-rod side. The lock-nuts on that side also have notches cut into them to differentiate them from the ones with right-hand threads.

Just double-checking the strut rod bushings in the kit, I was surprised to see that the new bushings are a 2-piece design with a sleeve whereas the original bushing is a 1-piece design with no sleeve. Just Suspensions uses Energy Suspensions bushings and their catalog lists PN 5.7105 for 62-65 A-bodies and PN 5.7109 for 66-76 A-bodies. Just Suspensions told me that the 5.7109 is a better design and fits exactly the same as the one-piece design.

Do the polyurethane strut bushings need any lubrication or should I assemble them dry?

I've got the upper control arms in now and I'm getting ready to install the spindles. However, the foam seals that go between the spindle and the splash shield have deteriorated and I want to install new ones. The spindles are from a 1974 Duster.

Where is best place to get this seal and what is the PN?

I got my spindle gaskets here. These folks are very good, have a strange way of ordering, and can be reached by phone after 6:00 pm.

Look on page 25, part # GEN 1316SP01, $2.00

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks! I checked with a local Chrysler dealer who still had the old parts manuals and gasket I'm looking for is PN 2944707. Chrysler has one (1, not a pair) still in stock in WV.

I checked the Detroit Muscle Technologies link above and found the part I'm looking for. However, I'm not sure about PN GEN1316SP01. I think I need PN GEN7376SP01. Maybe I'll order a set of GEN6676WC01 (wheel cylinder gaskets) while I'm at it. I didn't know there was such a thing until now.

Sorry Frank, I miss typed the above number. Should be GEN7376SP01 for 1973-1976 large spindle.

Detroit Muscle is a good outfit. They ship promptly, their prices are very reasonable, and they have every non engine gasket available for most 1960 to late 70’s Mopar's, as well as some Ford and other makes.

I rebuilt my Dart’s heater box using one of their kits, worked great, and have been ordering single gaskets as need.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks for lead on Detroit Muscle. I got a set of spindle gaskets and a set of wheel cylinder gaskets.

I'm just putting the last of the pieces back on (new brakes lines, sway bars, etc) and I have an appointment with the wheel alignment shop on Thursday. I've been searching for advice about wheel alignment specs and had some questions.

On the Alignment specifications needed please! topic, I see that Lou recommended the following:

Since my FSM recommends +1/2° of camber, I think that -1/2° should wear similarly.

I'm not clear about caster. Your recommend "with about 0.25 to 0.5 more positive on pass side" while Ehrenberg (Turn of the screw) recommends "quarter-degree more negative on the right side to compensate for road crown".

[EDIT: I think Ehrenberg is referring to 1/4° more negative CAMBER on the right side as this would agree with my FSM alignment specs. In 1965, the preferred camber spec was +1/2° left & +1/4° right.]

I was going to use +2.00° on the left and +1.75° on the right. However, I drive on both the 4-lane highways and the 2-lanes so would it make more sense to use +2.00° for both instead?

The FSM also specifies Toe-Out on Turns. Is this something that can be adjusted or it is built-in?

I would set caster and camber same on both sides, which is what I always do now. Road crowns are barely worth worrying about these days. It's possible I goofed on the caster side-side recommendation. Would have to check back...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Toe out on turns is pretty much a spec that can be used to check for bent steering parts- no real "adjustments" possible.

It's something to look at if alignment is otherwise ok but the front tires still wear unevenly (inner or outer edges)

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63 Valiant Wagon
225 - 4 bbl

I was in the alignment shop today getting an e-test on another car and mentioned my intent to use -1/2° camber instead of +1/2°. The alignment guy told me that the factory specified positive camber to minimize tire wear and I would see worn shoulders with negative camber. I've got a set of P225/70R14's and a set of P19575R14's and, from what I've read so far, I would not expect to get any unusual tire wear with -1/2° camber with these sizes of tires. Has anyone noticed any shoulder wear with -1/2° camber?

On a related note, is there a trick to getting the rubber boot over the tube in torsion bar tube in cross member? I've filled it up as best as I could with wheel bearing grease but is the amount of grease packed into the tube critical?

He doesn't know what he's talking about. -1/2 deg is totally fine. The OEM specs were developed for bias ply tires and high crown road designs. -1 deg *might* start to show some inner edge tire wear after 10k or more miles.

Amt of grease is not critical. I usually shove a bunch in the hole around the socket/bar interface after inserting Tbar. I coat the bar and socket liberally before inserting bar.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Here is what my 67 Dart with power steering and radial tires is set at as of early June 2011:

Left:
Camber 0.3 degs.
Caster 2.1 degs.
Toe 0.03 inches

Right:
Camber 0.2 degs.
Caster 2.6 degs.
Toe 0.03 inch

Cross Camber 0.1 degree
Cross Caster -0.6 degree
Total Toe 0.06 inch

Car handles very predictably, tracks down the road nice and straight with very little impute, and there is no pulling on flat modern & crowned country roads. It is spot on for radial tires. As you see, there is a little more caster on right due to crowned roads around here.

The fellow that did the work is a Mopar man from way back, and has a 1971 340 Cuda that he restored to better than showroom condition. That thing always wins something at a car show.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC