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 Post subject: Engine Q's
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 11:49 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:15 am
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Does anyone know if they built a 5 freeze plug block with a 75' up tapered seat head? That's what's in my 71 right now. I know it's had work done but just wondering if I have a forged crank lower end before I slap a turbo on her!

Dave

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1971 Scrapyard Scamp, 2JZGTE, Twin Turbo Toyota Supra Powered.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:16 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Thu Jan 27, 2005 8:32 pm
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Location: Portland-ish
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Yes, forged cranks lasted until mid 1976. Did you find your block casting number? It's on the manifold side. 2806830 is the 5 core-plug forged crank block.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:42 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

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Quote:
Yes, forged cranks lasted until mid 1976. Did you find your block casting number? It's on the manifold side. 2806830 is the 5 core-plug forged crank block.
I have a 2806830 block. Can't find the date pad by the alternator and I suspect it's been milled off or something. My 1st tip off was the EGR intake on a 71' car! The engine runs very well with over 18 inches of steady idle vacuum, just a tad shaky in gear but not a misfire. Needs some motor mounts though so I'll swap the mounts and put the pressure transducers on her and check compression and misfire with my big tools!

Thanks for the reply Joshua!

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1971 Scrapyard Scamp, 2JZGTE, Twin Turbo Toyota Supra Powered.
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 2:17 pm 
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Guru
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Location: Working in Silicon Valley, USA
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Step #1... recheck the valve lash adjustment, hot & running.
DD


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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When you pull of the valve cover for that lash check & adjustment, you will see a casting number on the driver's side of the head. That will provide a year of manufacture for the head.

Chances are good that your engine has been to a machine shop, and any stampings in the block below spark plug number one have been machined off.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:11 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:15 am
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Quote:
Step #1... recheck the valve lash adjustment, hot & running.
DD
Running sounds messy! Is a hot check enough, Doc?

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1971 Scrapyard Scamp, 2JZGTE, Twin Turbo Toyota Supra Powered.
1971 Plymouth Scamp (Green Car) - S6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:16 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:15 am
Posts: 11
Car Model:
Quote:
When you pull of the valve cover for that lash check & adjustment, you will see a casting number on the driver's side of the head. That will provide a year of manufacture for the head.

Chances are good that your engine has been to a machine shop, and any stampings in the block below spark plug number one have been machined off.
I agree it's just too clean under the oil cap! I'm going to check lash, and do a compression and leakdown before I try to add boost to it. If I can get her into the 13's with 10 psi I'll be happy while I'm building a stronger shortblock.

I don't think I'll fool with a blow through carb. I'll help Tom inject his Dart and get him dialed in before I copy his build! ;)

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1971 Scrapyard Scamp, 2JZGTE, Twin Turbo Toyota Supra Powered.
1971 Plymouth Scamp (Green Car) - S6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:41 pm 
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Site Admin
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7418
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
It's really not that messy. :D

It is the most accurate way to set it. I've done the lash adjustement four different ways.

Cold, slightly loose
Hot, not running
Hot running
Hot adjust for noise on the lash ramp and tighten a couple thousandths.

They all seem to work. Currently running off the lash ramps, which is a tad looser than spec for my cam.

CJ

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