I have heard a lot about this, but have no clue how to do it. My engine is a 64 stock. I am about to put headers and carb. I have no $$ (hardly). What should I do with the head, if anything. I don't know if there is an article on this, but I didn't see one. I heard I could get the head "surfaced" for about $40. Does this sound right and is it worth the time? I figured it's not much to pull the head once I have the two manifolds off. I can't swing a newer head right now (no $$$). I've read the 70's head are better and don't have the plug tubes. That's why I don't want to get into a lot with this head. All feedback is gladly appriciated.

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

A valve adjustment is adjusting the clearance or "lash" settings between the rocker arm and the valve stem tip. This is a pretty easy job, all you need is a replacement valve cover gasket and a feeler gauge. (thickness gauge)

A valve job is different, this is where you remove the cylinder head from the engine and do machine work to it. In the case of your stock 64 head, my bet is that it would need a bunch of expensive work like resurfacing, new valves, replacement guides, some hardened exhaust seats, etc.

So, if the engine is running well, just check the adjustment and keep on driving it. Save-up some cash for doing the valve job later.
DD

DD is right... its pretty easy to do... I just did mine for the first time a few months ago... I spent 30mins just feelings the differances... getting used to the feel of it... when you first start its almost like you cant tell the differances... just take your time and get the feel of it... Also I suggest you turn the idle speed down and use your least favorite wrench or socket for the job... because it kinda beat mine up... its still 100% useable... just all dinged up.... Oh that reminds me... you wanna get used to the jerking of the rocker arms... do a search there has been lots of post on this subject...

OK thanks for the reply. I can change a valve cover gasket and I have tools, now what? What thickness on the feeler gauge? Is this like the timing where you play with it 'till it's running the best or is it an exact spec. I have a 67 shop manual, would this have the info I need? Does the motor need to be running? I could use more help when someone gets a chance. THANX!

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

Usually you run the engine til she's hot, the manual will tell you hat RPM to tune the engine down to for the adjustment. put a piece of cardboard under the passenger side of the engine bay, pull the valve cover. The spec for a stock slant six is .010 intake, and .020 exhaust. Pull out the feeler guages and a ratchet with a 3/8" socket, you want to run the feeler gauge through where the rocker arm meets the the valve stem tip. If your lash is correct you should be able the drag the gauge through the bumping rocker and and stem with some resistance, but it shouldn't be too difficult or very loose (like pushing a hot knife through butter just pulled from the fridge). If too loose tighten slightly until you get the desired drag, if too tight, loosen a smidge till it's too loose, then slowly 'creep' up on your adjustment. I go through and check ll my intakes at one time and all my exhausts so I don't accidentally put the wrong gauge under the wrong rocker (good habit to do...)....


My friend uses a second method for the 'tricky' person (get good at the above method before trying this one). Get the engine hot, shut it off, pull the valve cover, set engine to TDC, lash is set while the pushrod and lifter assembly is sitting on the 'base circle' of the cam (the backside, opposite of the lobes). The six has 'opposing' cylinder groups, 153 is your first group, so 624 is the opposing group, so if #1 is in 'split overlap' (lifter between the two lobes on the cam), the 'opposing' cylinder #6 should be on the 'base circle' and ready to lash without the engine all bumping around. Using your crank bolt and 1 1/8" wrench, you can roll the engine over manually to go through the next set #5 coming up, and #2 ready to lash, then #3 so #4 gets lashed, then back down to #4 so #3 gets lashed, #2 on the base circle, so #5 gets lashed, and finally look at #6 and be ready to lash #1 when the intake closes....

someone, may have a better description of this method, it nice since you can set everything without the engine bumping along, the lifters making the ratchet bounce like a pogo stick, and you can roll the crank over to the cylinders you need to adjust, and your feeler gauges don't get dinged to peices....

Since this is your first time use the 'standard method' it's sure fire, and a good experience, when you get more experience playing with adjustments try out #2.

let us know how you make out, also check your oil after you seal it up you shouldn't lose anymore than a cupful to the cardboard on the floor.

-D.Idiot

Thank you very much. I'll get into that this weekend.
It might be cool to cut and paste your post to the articles section.
Just a thought to help out us beginners ...

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"Nothing in all creation is hidden from God's sight. Everything is uncovered and laid bare before the eyes of Him to whom we must give account."

I have thought about putting together a Video CD with some of the tech articles, and some footage of how some of these things are done. That way some of the 'newbies' could review it , try it and review it while doing it too. Maybe coming up with a price to put it together, with a shipping cost and the money going to support the board....


-D.Idiot