Where can I find a really inexpensive front end kit? Or would it be cheaper to buy all the separate parts?
If so can somebody give me a full list of parts to buy?
This is my first front end rebuild.

IMO, it's cheaper to buy a kit if you have none of the parts. PST and Just Suspension are the leading vendors.

While you're at it, suggest you also consider the special tools that will be needed. Some you can borrow from a parts store box, e.g. AutoZone. Some you can not. The UBJ removal socket is N/A from a store. Also, it matters if the car in question is a pre-73 model because it determines the size of UBJ socket you'll need. (NOTE: Haynes manuals lie. The UBJ does not press in, it screws in.)

Access to a press for installing and removing bushings is going to be very helpful. Note also on the kit if you have to re-use the bushing "shells".

There are ways around the TB removal tool, because you won't find one for loan at the parts store, either.

The vendor is going to offer kits with either polygraphite or rubber bushings. If the car you're working on is not being set up for road racing or canyon carving, suggest you stick with rubber. Just MHO.

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You can't fix stupid. - Ron White

Thanks. What is a UBJ?
This for a 64 Barracuda. PST wants over $350.00 for the kit.
As for Haynes, I would not wipe my backside with one of those. I have a reprint of an original shop manual.

Upper Ball Joint

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Super Six Conversion Stromberg

You can make your own mini press to get the upper control arm bushings on. Just use a big bolt, big washers and a socket that'll fit over the bushing nicely.

For the upper ball joint, you're going to have the control arm off anyway, so just turn it over, stick the ball joint in a vice and use a pipe to spin the control arm around until it threads off. Then install the same way.

I have never used a tool to remove the torsion bars. I was taught by a mechanic at a Chrysler dealership (who learned it from an OLD Chrysler mechanic), and because of that, I never understand what the "drill" is. It's very easy when you know how.

1) Remove the wheel
2) Unload the torsion bar
3) Disconnect the lower shock mounting and push the shock up & out of the way of the LCA.
4) Remove the strut bar nuts (take the nut off of the K-frame side first or the bar will spin when you try to remove it)
5) Remove the clip holding in the bar (at the rear of the bar in the frame)
6) Remove the cotter key & nut holding in the LCA (lower control arm)
7) Get a big hammer and hit the front side of the LCA (close to the pin), driving it back toward the rear of the car. The LCA & TB should come out with a few whacks.

It's been a while so forgive me if I missed a step.

EDIT: Thanks Doug!

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

2.5) Disconnect the lower shock mounting and push the shock up & out of the way of the LCA.
DD

your instructions look very scarry!, ha,ha,ha.

the long pipe turning the control arm, and all of those terms/synonimus.. that only the wise man knows!!aha,ha,ha,.
I feel like just taking off running like a chicken with out a head!!ha,ha..

Thanks.

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salud.
El Guapo From Santo Poco

I am not familiar with the size of the socket for upper ball joints for earlier models, but for my Aspen (yes, I have one and have used it), it is the OTC 8033 Chrysler Small Ball Joint Socket 1-59/64-inch (Miller Tools No. C-3560), can someone please confirm if it is the same?



Here are links to the two lowest priced OTC 8033 sockets on eBay, the prices are at the same level as I found more than a year ago, so I think it is difficult to find them at a lower price elsewhere.

Automotive Tools and Parts

Tool King

BTW, they are made for a 3/4" socket drive.

Olaf.

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Aspenized