My fuel gauge doesn't work, and I am repainting the trim on the dash and instrument panel, so while I get to the bottom of the fuel gauge problem, I thought I would try to remove the panel to make painting it a little easier. I'm finding that I'm not sure this is possible. I'm new to auto repair and restore. Any help would be appropriated.

Also, I have a new Voltage reg. for a 68 to rig into my 65, but I've heard that if just my fuel gauge is out, that may not be the problem, any thoughts?
And remember, speak slowly and with small words

65 Dodge Dart 270 Convert

Welcome on the board! The very first thing you'll want to do, as quickly as possible and before you try taking anything apart, is to get these three books. The instrument cluster is not difficult to remove from a '65 Dart, but you're a little confused on the instrument cluster voltage regulator issue. On your '65, the regulator is built into the fuel gauge. On most later-year cars, it's a separate plug-in box. If neither your fuel gauge nor your engine temperature gauge is working, the regulator is suspect. But if one or the other of those two gauges does work, then the regulator is not at fault. If the temp gauge works but the fuel gauge always reads "E" for empty, then it's probably a sunk fuel gauge sender float, a faulty sender, a faulty wire from the sender to the gauge, a ground problem, or a burned-out gauge unit itself.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan
I have everything but the factory manual. I had a bad feeling about the regulator not being at fault. It sounded like a much easier fix than anything involving the sender. I'll have to do some reading when I get home. I'm assuming the factory manual is what I'll need to know how to remove the instrument panel?
Any advice on repaitning dash trim? I'm seeing its quite a detailed task.

The factory manual will help a lot. IP removal involves disconnecting the battery, unscrewing the speedometer cable from the back of the IP, taking out all the philips-head screws holding the faceplate to the dashboard, removing the headlamp and wiper switch knobs and bezel nuts, removing the cigarette lighter, removing the ignition switch bezel nut, lowering the steering column by loosening the two bolts that hold it to the bottom of the dashboard, pulling the IP assembly rearward a few inches, and unplugging the two multi-wire connectors plugged onto the back of the IP. Then you can lift and wiggle the IP assembly out of the car.

To remove the headlamp switch knob: Reach up behind the dash and find the headlamp switch body. Feel around on the sides, top, and bottom until you find a small round domed button. Tape a penny to whichever finger or thumb will allow you to press that domed button hardest and most effectively. Press the domed button very hard with one hand and wiggle it as you use your other hand to grasp the headlamp knob and pull it firmly(!) out beyond its normal "on" position. It may take several tries and a good deal of wiggling, but eventually the knob and shaft will come out of the switch.

To remove the wiper knob: Find its setscrew, loosen it, and remove the knob.

To remove the headlamp, wiper, and ignition switch bezel nuts: Carefully insert the points of a snap ring pliers into two opposite slots in the bezel nut and carefully turn anticlockwise. If you cannot break them loose, make very careful use of a slotted screwdriver and small hammer to break them loose. Take your time so you don't scratch or scar the plastic IP faceplate.

To remove the cigarette lighter: Pull the knob and lighter out of the dash and set aside. Reach around behind the dash, unplug the wire plugged into the centre of the back of the lighter, then grasp the lighter body (still behind the dash) and unscrew it. At the same time, unscrew the bezel from the front of the dash.

How to restore the dash faceplate depends on how authentic you want it to look and how much you want to spend. There are reputable (and disreputable) outfits that will refurbish it to as-new condition including all chrome and paint. This costs several hundred dollars. If your budget and project don't warrant that amount of spending, do the best you can with high-quality spray paint. Semi-gloss (or "satin") black and "chrome" (aluminum) will get you fairly close to a reasonable facsimile of the original finish. Careful masking and attention to detail will pay off here. It can be very difficult to restore the chrome highlights to the switch labelling; a tiny paint brush and a steady hand are about all you can work with.

None of the fuel gauge faults mentioned is very hard to fix. All the parts except the gauge itself are available new, and the gauge can be rebuilt (or replaced with a good working used one).

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,
I am amazed by how much you know about so many aspects of this stuff. Thanks again for your help. Looking forward to the project at hand,

I have taken these dashes apart several times and I always end up doing it differently but ending up with a successful result eventually. It's the little tricks that differentiate a relatively simple job and a back twisting, crud in your eye job. I love this description Dan, I mentally went through the process as I read it and actually spit up coffee when I read about the penny taped to your finger for the stiff little wiper switch button. Genius and effective.

_________________

Just wanted to say thanks for the write-up Dan.

Also, anyone reading be sure to buy the snap ring pliers--they made the bezel removal a breeze.

_________________
~Less think, more do

Y'welcome!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Small needle nosed pliers work well too. Just put the ends into the slots in the nut and turn carefully.

_________________
Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

If the temp gauge is working then the built-in voltage regulator is probably OK. If you have an analog voltmeter, place the positive lead on the different sides of the fuel gauge (at different times!) and look at the voltage. If the voltage regulator is working you will see about a 4-5v pulse, roughly 2 per second on at least one side of the gauge. You can't do this with a digital meter, it just won't show what you need to see. If the pulses are about 4-5v and steady, you are OK. If the voltage and pulses are erratic (or you see nothing) then it is time to repair the gauge.

If you get the pulse, test the wiring & gauge further by grounding the fuel sender gauge lead at the gas tank. Just remove the lead from the tank sender and ground with a jumper. Make sure you get a GOOD ground. If the gauge starts moving to FULL, then the gauge & wiring are OK and the tank sender is bad. Don't leave the wire grounded for more that a few seconds to avoid burning out the gauge & regulator! You may want to get a friend to watch the gauge while you ground it, or run a long wire out from under the car so you can watch the gauge when you apply the ground. You can also use a voltmeter on this wire to look for the pulse you saw on the gauge. That will tell you the wiring is OK, but will not really test the gauge.

If the regulator is dead, you can also try this setup for using a later removable regulator, but unless you have one of the old regulators hanging around, it is probably better to go with an electronic one because the cost of these mechanical regulators has gone through the roof, and the electronic setup is much better and cheaper! You shouldn't need the heat sink if you bolt the regulator chip to the metal case of the instrument cluster. A little heat-sink compound would be a good idea.

_________________
Chuck Rivers, Webmaster