The pie tin is temporary, the offset of the bottom lid is off by 3/8", and it has some minor 'issues' with the linkage, and a 3" element won't fit (hood clearance), and the 2" element allows the top to interfere with the choke plate...).

I'm going to get together with a buddy of mine and make a custom plenum for it, and tube down to a cold air filter box from a Jeep or modern fuel injected vehicle I think, it's much better that way.




I rolled it over and checked my electrical for the choke and primed the fuel bowls. After it was primed she fired up and idled great, I even stepped on it and it was really wanting out of the driveway. Unfortunately, Idiot Jr. is taking his nap, otherwise we'd be out going around the block.
I noticed that I need to pull my 'shooter' since one of the squirts seems to be clogged or plugged(got spares...)...

I also have a buddy coming over tomorrow, he wants a ride, and will give me some advanced pointers on what to adjust and what to watch for. Early next week, I need to get it into the exhaust shop. Since I have a manual tranny, the Z-bar and linkage limits what can come out the engine bay. I may go 2 1/4" pipe from the Duals, to a collector, 3" pipe from the collector out the bay down the car to a muffler, then before the rear axle, split it so I can get the illusion of 'dual exhaust'...


If anyone has another exhaust configuration recommendation I'd be interested too.


And Doc...You're a bad influence!

-D.Idiot

"and for christmas, santa, I'd like a 10" clutch, some 15x7 Rallyes, a set of 3.91's and a sure grip, a better cam, an oversize valve head, sway bars, better leaf springs, sub frame connectors, a trip to Vegas, the winning lottery ticket, a fridge with a padlock....."

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

boy it's easy to get use to this kind of 'power'....

My aunt came over and threatened to watch DusterBoy for a few hours, so out of the driveway it went!!!!

She fired up on the spot again (wow, I wish my super six and BBD would've done that).... I barely had to let the clutch out and it slid out of the driveway at 15 mph and using the forward gears, I had to shift to 3rd before I lost sight of my yard....

At light throttle and 'cruise' it ran fine and even pulled well, but it got flat on heavy acceleration, and it got kind of 'doggy' in 3rd at 50mph....

Forgot to change the shooter, so I went back and pulled the shooter out of the 2300 I was going to use on the supersix, but kinda skipped a step...

Acceleration was better, but flattened out at a higher speed and when I 'got on it'.

I ran out of day light...but had enough time to change the powervalve from a 7.5 to a 10.5... that should take care of some of the 'flatness' I think after that changing the spring rate on the vaccuum secondaries will help it out a bit too....

I need to get the exhaust installed so I can read the plugs and see how my jetting is doing.

Here's my notes on my initial carb settings:

Rebuilt a Holley 4160 list# 0-8007 Vac. Sec. 390 cfm carb

Stock it came with 512 primary close jets, a #34 plate (.052 jetting with .029 idle ), plain sec. spring, 6.5" Pwr. Valve, and a 466/Orange pump cam, and a #25 shooter....

I rebuilt it taking an estimated guess at what might be 'better' to start with...

since the manifold is bigger, I jetted up to a set of 542 close jets I had out of another carb, kept the plate since there's nothing in plates between .052, and .058. Set the power valve to 7.5 (it was better than 6.5, and I didn't have a 10.5 yet), #25 shooter, and the Orange pump cam.

We'll see tomorrow what changes with the 10.5 cam (a 9.5 might be a bit better, but there migh be other things to 'improve' too...)...


The next carb to go on a test time permits, will be another 4160 list#80457, 600cfm, vac. secondary.
It will start at 64 jetting, a #6 plate (.070/.026), 10.5 PV, #25 shooter, and an orange 466 cam.

If we find the shot not to be right, I'm lucky that one of my 'spare' carbs came with a pink 330 cam (the only one bigger is the brown 336 cam and going to a Reo pump).


I'll post again tomorrow when I get another 'test run', more will follow when the exhaust is finished and I can check the plugs properly....

'Come on in folks the water's fine!'




-D.Idiot

Good going D!

DI, take the rear exhaust across under the engine and down the passengers side. The F bodies were routed this way when equiped with a six, and that is what I did with my duals. There is room between the drag link and the bell housing( I think that is where I put mine). You can fab a hanger bracket to bolt to the inspection cover. I put a joint in the header pipe at the clamp so I could pull the exhaust if I needed to, although I think I could change the clutch without doing that. For your ten inch clutch, get the flywheel and clutch disk from an 80 Volare. Oh yeah, you know all that, you got all those books you read.

I've actually mocked up a Volare header pipe and it fits under the duster, but there's just not enough room to put two 2 1/4" pipes through the bellcrank area, and I'd want to have an 'H' pipe anyway. The other problem with running the Volare pipe, is if you have any oil leaks or road grime on the pan the pipe will bake it and give the illusion you're burning oil (tested the Volare pipe on my '74....that was a nice smoke screen).

Also my flywheels are standard sized, so all I need to order is a clutch dic and pressure plate from a Dodge Truck with HD clutch and get a set of proper pressure plate bolts and I'm done (I actually have a pressure plate core and disc from an '81 ram using that setup...)

I'm not there yet, but I probably will be as I romp on this setup some more....

Thanks for the input, another test run coming up.

-D.Idiot

Well done DI,
Nothing like the mid range "pull" of a H-Pak!

You seem to be on-track with how this new set-up should perform.
You will need to get the exhaust on before sorting-out the fuel delivery "flat spot". If you do not have a vacuum gauge, get one, that will help with trouble-shooting. My bet is that the secondary system is driving the mixture rich or lean, making the performance "flat" in high gear WOT.
DD

Cooooollllllll!!!!!!! DI,Im glad your having such good luckand its making me feel a little better about my purchase of a h-p.Im gonna work on mine this afternoon ,Im still trying to get all of the triangle washers fitting but it is actually coming along a little better than I thought it would.BTW,thank you for keeping us posted on your project and all the effort that you have put forth,I know it has helped me and im sure it will others.
Doc,thank you for all of your suggestions and for helping to get the H-P to the street.
Slanted Attitude

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Ive got a slanted attitude and a heavy right foot.

Once the pipe goes on, Doc's got the 'shiz' I think a combo of Tach and Vaccuum gauge and note taking is going to narrow down the 'lean' or 'rich' of the whole matter.


So does this addiction get any better once you try it all out on the track?


more to come...

-D.Idiot

Well DI, you are right about the 2 1/4" thing, but the stock 340 Darts only had 1 7/8" header pipes leading to two 2" exhaust pipes. I used a stock 340 exhaust system, with custom bent head pipes. And who cares about a little smoke out the back?:) Actually my t-5 leaks a little somewhere, but I have never seen anything burning off the exhaust. I only see it on the garage floor. The 833 which I subsequently put behind my 360 dart has never left a single spot on the floor, proving once again Mopar Rules.

By the way, DI, I just moved my battery to the trunk. It makes the car handle better, PLUS, it gives you alot of space for a remote air filter set up. You mihgt give that a thought.

Nope.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Actually, I think it gets worse when you mix Slants with a Racetrack...

Here is an example, looks like we "hooked" another Slanter the other day...
DD
http://www.dutra.org/pictures/misc/rich ... e/pass.htm

Hey,DI,I spent 6 hours yesterday making myH-P/Dutra combo fitand fabbing up the plenum splitter ,Ill get it welded this week.
BTW,what gasket did you use for your setup,also is your head cut and what cam?
Ill probably be asking you alot of ????? in the future months as i get motor done and ready bolt on my H-P. Now I need to get off my arse and get the motor done.
Thanks,Slanted Attitude

_________________
Ive got a slanted attitude and a heavy right foot.

I wasn't sure how 'good' the setup was going to seal, so I grabbed a Mr. Gasket #320G and that thing is pretty thick, no leaks yet.


My mill is 'a good start'...it originally was intended for the daily driver/ more pep option....that'll go out the window soon, I'm sure...

any how:

NAP engine rebuild kit using moly rings and felpro gaskets
1976 225 forged crank block with .090 shaved off the deck
.020 over pistons with moly rings
std crank (200k on the motor and the crank only needed to be shined...)
Double Roller Chain with cam offset bushing to centerline the-
Comp Cam 252S bumpstick (I wish I'd have grabbed the 264...but I didn't know at the time).
1976 '600' 'BL' style head(no smog port), .010 off, new stock valves, guides and springs, I gasket matched my ports and since it's a 'street car' I didn't polish any of the ports.
Due to .100 off the deck and head, even with a fel-pro head gasket I still needed custom pushrods from Smith Brothers to put the Geometry back into place...after using doc's 'adjustable pushrod' trick the final measurement was something like 9.715" (9.9 is stock I think)...I probably could have gone a slight bit longer though.
engine has been very reliable, but I'll suggest 'doc's cam stop'. It's a quick layout and weld, and it will save you the trouble I had a couple weeks back with the bushing being beat to crap in my cam gear.

I ran this with a stock super six stack and carter BBD.... don't have a 1/4 time for you to look at for comparison, but it pulled good up through 90mph (had to get by a triple trailer on I-5, quickly)....











Oh jeez....


-D.Idiot