Does anybody know if there exists a tool for adjusting the spring perches on the late '70's distributors? The perches can be reached from above when removing the cap, and that may come in handy when fine-tuning the advance curve. I have thought about modifying a screwdriver, but if the tool exists, please tell me where to get it.

An alternative would be to open the vent hole in the floor of the dizzy's body, and make it big enough for a small socket to reach the nuts on the underside. It can then be closed with a rubber grommet when not in use.

Does anybody know approximately how much a secondary spring's action can be delayed by adjusting the spring perches?

My camera's autofocus cannot be oversteered, so I had some difficulties getting clear pictures, sorry about that. There are details here not seen by those with older distributors, so I took some pics!



Here you can clearly see the black ring of old lube, that indicate the amount of adjustment from one revolution of the perch. The flat spot on the perch indicate the direction of max offline. In the little picture you can also see that the centerline of the perch is clearly not in line with the nut.





I also have a problem with the drawing vs. my distributor. In the drawing, taken from the '78 manual, there is a seal on the axle, pictured below 'shaft assembly'. There was no seal or washer on my axle. In the photo of the axle, you can clearly see that the diameter of the axle is smaller, just under the plate for the advance mechanism, and the area is quite course compared to the rest of the axle. Is the seal abandoned on the later distributors? A murky photo of the housing, but you can see the channels from the underside of the dizzy housing entering the area between the lower and upper bushings for the axle. I assume that the channels are thought for axle bushing lubrication by oil mist/splash, so on a worn axle a seal may have a function, not letting oil mist into the dizzy housing.
Comments anyone?



In the distributor drawing, there is a gasket, retainer and washer between the house and the gear, on my dizzy there was only a washer. What is correct?

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I've always just grabbed them with good quality needle-nose pliers if I haven't disassembled the distributor to the point I can reach the hex nuts on the underside. Looks as if this set of tamperproof screwdriver bits contains a bit that should work.

I haven't ever found seal or gasket in a Mopar distributor in the locations you describe.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://www.harborfreight.com/33-piece-s ... 93388.html harbor freight has them on sale for $6 right now and maybe a quick drive to get to, there popping up everywhere like walmarts lol


-Mike

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I am the Guardian, I hate helos, everything leaks.......

Thanks for the response. I guess a modified screwdriver is the easiest way to go,
The thought was to be able to modify the spring perch offset while the distributor was on the engine, or at least not disassembled if lifted out.

I would very much like to hear from someone that has experimented with the offset.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I'd just use the wrench after pulling the assembly...you'll probably be back in there for a respring after tensioning it and not getting what you want...(or replacing the shaft assembly after you bung up one of the studs, and you probably forgot to relube everything after you cleaned it up).

I've seen the plastic seal on some OEM distributors but not all, it's not necessary. The passages plug up with gunk after 20-50K of regular use.

Your distributor already has 'the gasket' installed on the body (must go on before you put the gear on, it seals the lower body in the block hole...there is another "o" gasket that goes on under the plate to seal the dizzy in the "cup") The washer may not be present, I usually install one when putting a new gear on so if the shaft climbs the cam gear the distributor gear won't get "ground" against the under side of the distributor.

I've never seen the 'retainer' on any distributor I've gotten.
Time to plug it into your Sun Machine and play with it a whole weekend and determine how this affects either spring and how much for each kind of spring you use...(and how much you wind it up based on how long your governor slot is...)

-D.Idiot

Thanks -D.idiot, I'll better make a checklist before assembly!

I think it must be confusing for a lot of people to use a factory manual, only to find the incorrect exploded view of a distributor. The same drawing is also used in the '79 manual.

The governor is a #9, quite perfect as it is, well lubed and not worn at all. I also have the spring kit from bigslant6fan as well as a MP spring kit to play with, but the only Sun Machine around must be that old tanning lamp up in the attic!

I thought I should solder a rod to an old rotor arm, and make a pointer down to a degree scale, or a cam degree wheel, and then pull on the rod using a small linear weight (originally intended for weighing the fish you just caught!), just to get an idea on when the different springs start their action at different settings. Not very exact, but it may at least give me an indication, before fitting the distributor on the engine again. I also have the spring curve charts from bigslant6fan and MP.

Here are the old springs, check out the one fit for dampening the movement when towing locomotives, hardly stretchable at all!


BTW, if someone has an old working distributor machine for sale at a realistic price, please let me know!

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Olaf,

When you go to resemble the distributor, be sure to correctly orientate that slotted bar which limits weight’s travel & rotor button attaches to. Other wise you will be 180 degrees out…

Happened to me once, pulled my hair out until I figured out what happened…LOL… A real; “oh what a dope momentâ€￾.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I put it on the to-do list, Bill. Thanks. I also took pics and made notes, before and after every operation.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Olaf,

I apologize, I didn't see your post. I thought it was covered in Engine FAQ, Recurve section.

I have gotten up to 5 degrees. I have my secondary post rotated all the way in for more throw. On the primary post it is rotated all the way out to keep the primary spring tension tighter. I hate to have sloppy primary springs. By keeping it tight It feels smoother and stronger under moderate acceleration.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Thank you, Ted, that was exactly the info I was looking for!

Have you seen my thread I modified my distributor for easy recurve tests? The reason for not following up on that thread, is a 7-8° slack in the timing chain, and I have not replaced it yet.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

Yes! The adjustable spring posts make tuning much easier.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG