Here is a recent Video Of the Last TNT ruster launch:
(please ignore the Watermark, I dont yet own a good video program that does zooming)
The video Will probably be viewed best at Full screen.




Here is the Timeslip:


What Can I do to get the 60' Times down and Less Movement / Rise Out of the Front end?
Stock Torsion Bars / Springs all around and Stock type shocks all around too. Competition Engineering shocks on the wish list.

Thanks,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Looks to me like you're not getting any rise out of the front. Am I missing something?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I can't watch the video but unless you are losing traction your torque converter is probably too tight. With 103MPH trap speed you should be well into the 12s with the right converter.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Seymour, did you right click, then open link?

I agree on the front end rise. Lower HP cars need F&R suspension rise to help plant the tire. The more HP you have to help hit the tire, the less suspension travel you need.
Looks like your torsion bars are tightened up. Loosen them to let the front end drop and allow more front suspension travel. Make sure the upper and lower control arms aren't binding, it needs to be free, resistance can reduce travel. The 90/10 CE shocks will help.
Another thing, it sounds like it is lugging off the line, like it needs one or all of; more rear gear, a low gear 904, a different convertor. I see you load the convertor on the line. Have you tried a lower RPM launch? Lower RPM will let the convertor flash, hitting the tires harder and helping weight transfer. It will also slow reaction times, so you may have to adjust for that.
For rear rise, you can move the spring clamps around. Add clamps to make the front segment stiff and use the ones on the rear segment to adjust. Fewer clamps and/or moving them towards the axle will loosen things up and help to hit the tire harder. Longer rear shakles will also loosen it up by allowing the rear segment to move more.
Looks like you have a good power-to-weight, 103 mph is rollin' along!

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Slant Cecil

103 mph,should be about 12.86. The sixty ft for 103 ,12.86 is about 1.79. So yes you are about . 13 off in sixty. Above suggestions are all good. I have always have to eventually add ballast to the rear to get cars to .60 well and consistantly. Slant cars are nose heavy, the looser you get the front end the better,i use to drill out old worn out shocks (no fluid)for better front travel.

Sergio just made a point that I have been kicking around in my head all day. With all the weight you've taken out of the car what is the front/rear bias? Too nose heavy will keep the car from pitch rotating.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

If he is not spinning the tires, what does it matter if the car rises or rotates or whatever? If it's lugging the converter, he just needs a higher stall, right? Or, the carb or timing tuneup needs work to get it to make power at lower RPM.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

If it's not rasing the front, hitting it with more converter will probably cause it to spin.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

One quick way to see if it needs a looser converter or suspension work would be a 5 grand neutal drop.

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If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Thanks for the Info / Discussion here guys.


I think I need to try 2 things -

#1 The converter. - It's supposed to be a 3500 stall from Midwest, but It just does not stall that high. It seemed too tight to me.

I gave them all the specs when Ordering, but to no avail I guess (any other Torque conv. manufacturers out there that anyone would recommend for a Slant 6 racer?)



#2 The CE Shocks.

The Torsion bars are low and when I slow moe'd the Video on my computer, it looks like the rise was about approx 4". It's not wild like a 350 chevy or a 340 or a big block car. And I think for A Low HP slant car that's okay; i could be waay off here, But I am not spinning the tires.

I would be under the general impression that If I am not spinning the tires that Excess rise is wasted motion. Motion wasted in getting the car up instead of forward?

Going forward would tend to have a lower 60'?

I think the converter is really the biggie here, I am new to racing 904's so I think I am going to try to get a converter that stalls at the correct rpm first.

Thanks for all your help! It's appreciated!

Further discussion and comments welcome.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

So, what's the actual stall RPM? Look at tach next time you leave the line... Timing and carb tuneup could help quite a bit on the low end. Midwest hit my stall just right. Charlie has a place he liked a lot. PTC is one that several of the GA and TN racers have used.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Greg, Why not talk to Midwest, about the stall speed. Most converter manufactures, will make at least one stall speed adjustment for no charge.

I have two edge converters. Both are 9 1/2 inch. One I have been running for about 7 years, and think it was an excellent value. The other I bought used from 74dusterkev, when he went to a 4 speed. I have not installed it yet. It should be almost the same as my other one.
PTC rebuilt my 8 inch converter, that is in my Cuda. That converter was about 30 years old. It is no better or no worse, then before it broke. I would have thought for a $500+ rebuild, I would have seen some improvement from newer technology.
There is a company near me that Brennen used, and was happy with. FTI Competition Converters. I did talk to them, and they gave me the correct answers to my question, and asked me the right questions. I have not tried them yet.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Maybe with all the weight you have taken out it has changed the dynamics where the convertor won't stall as high. Just a thought.

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11.02 @ 120.56
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAxRmoDgsdY
Chassis dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wd6hFGzLJMc

Thanks for the ideas on the convertor guys.

Tom, I was never real impressed with this convertor anyway, but since I was new to the automatic Game I didnt really question it too much until now.

I have to Now get a real Idea where it stalls at And then work from there.

I have always felt that is was lower than 3500 as when I try to take it up to 3500 at the line it Really wants to go.

My best guess is it stalls at 2500 for me but I need to check for sure.

I think I will call midwest first and talk with them - I got the Identical Convertor as THe one thats in the car in a nice engine / Transmission deal from a local guy here in PA. That convertor has the Same part# as the one in ruster. So Maybe I can ship that back toi them in hopes of getting the stall speed up a bit higher.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Do you have a manual valve body in the trans? If so put it in 3rd gear and stall it, That will tell you what your real stall is. My wagon is 4600. Goes 1.79 60ft.
Do you have the low 1st gear set in the 904?
What is the rear gear ratio?
The CE shocks are junk. Get a set from Calvert or drill and drain a old pair of stock ones if your on a budget, The tech guy's wont like the drilled ones though.
You want to front free to move up, It is not wasted motion. If it is limited before the rear tires are planted you will eventually run into traction issues.

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NHRA V/SA Record holder 2009