Dan,

I replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor before starting the car with the new engine. The only thing that you mentioned that I haven't changed is the coil. I should note that the "roughness" is there during idle as well. It's like an occasional stutter. When the RPM's are increased (let's say 1000-1500 estimated) the engine smooths out and it isn't there or isn't noticeable. It runs smooth until it hits higher RPM's and then a noticeable "uneven-ness" returns.

Before I do the test you mentioned in regards to the transmission, let me tell you about something that might pin-point a problem. As long as I have had this car, if I shut it off after driving in reverse, or if it stalls when I'm backing out, it won't start back up when I turn the key. I have to open the door, put my leg out and push the car backwards a hair until I hear a click from my steering wheel. After that, if I turn the key the starter will engage. Is that relevant or is it a seperate issue altogether?

I have a thick (standard, I believe) gasket between my carb and manifold.

I do not have the books you describe in that thread, although I will comply. I have a '69 FSM manual which is often helpful but not when it comes to year-specific stuff. Otherwise, I have a couple generic manuals around. Chilton and Haynes I believe. I will head over to eBay now and see if I can find those books.

Thanks Dan.

-Matt

Matty,

Something I haven't seen mentioned so far is a vacuum gauge. A vacuum gauge mounted inside your vehicle can be a fairly powerful, yet inexpensive diagnostic tool. The factory service manual has a whole section on interpreting the readings you will get from that.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to do a compression test, if you haven't already.

- Mac

Didn't ask if you'd changed them. Asked if they are good. Not the same question.
Separate issue.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan,

They are all low cost Duralast items from Autozone, so I guess the answer would be NO?

I'm heading out to the garage right now to swap the coil and check compression.

I will print the info about checking the transmission and bring it with me Thursday when I meet the guy who's offered to help me fine-tune my car.

Thanks.

-Matt

Correct. Buy crap parts, get crap results.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, I respect your opinion on the matter of low quality parts in my car. Believe me, that is never my preferred route to take. I have been in a tough spot though. The Valiant is my only car. I earn about $250 a week (sometimes more when I'm selling on eBay). My father and I originally hoped to get this swap done in an optimistic two, maybe three days. But neither he, nor I, am an expert on this stuff and it quickly turned into almost 2 weeks of me being without a car. So, when it came to putting new stuff in (wires, cap, etc.) to narrow in on the causes of my problems, I've had to go with what was readily available on the shelves. I don't know the first thing about Duralast, I simply know that they are available, I can afford them, and the items were sold under the pretext that they work. For future reference, are there Slant components available at Autozone or Advance Auto in the low-mid price range that you feel are worthy of purchase? Can you shoot me some brand names? I trust your opinion on this stuff and will certainly take it to heart.

I ended up having some really good luck with the car tonight. First of all, THE SWAPPED COIL MADE A HUGE HUGE DIFFERENCE!!! My engine steadied right out, practically purred. This whole time I've been driving around with a dying coil! The one I put in is ancient, but it happens to be a lot better than the one I was using. I will buy a brand new one when I have a chance. Is this the kind of item that would be safe for me to buy "over the counter" at one of the chain stores?

Next, I finally checked my compression and got what seem to be very satisfactory results:

1) 135
2) 140
3) 140
4) 140
5) 140
6) 135

I'm pretty sure with the carb tune-up I'll be getting Thursday, everything will come together and I'll finally get this thing running as top-notch as it can be (at least for now).

Dan, I'm going to print out everything you said about the transmission linkage and bring it with me when I go meet the guy helping me with my carb. Hopefully he can help me out with it. I'll handle the transmission as a separate issue and start a new thread in the appropriate place.

Thanks to everyone who's offered information and advice!

-Matt

Why? You've got a good working one…leave it be and move on to other stuff.

Compression looks fine.

Part brand and P/N suggestions already linked.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Congrats on your success with the coil. I agree with Dan. If you have good working used/old coil, it is likely as good or better than a new one you would buy in the parts store. Compression test looks perfect.

Lou

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