Hey guys
So as it's getting warmer, I've been wondering if my ac will work. I don't know if it really did when I got the truck back in November seeing as it was cold outside. Well on one of the warmer days I tried it, both ac and max ac. Nothing. It seems the compressor clutch will not engage. There is no burning or smoking or sqealing. Could this be an electrical problem or is it just a bad clutch? Idk if the system needs to be charged or not either. I did however, when I did the hei conversion, make sure all the wiring was correct for the engine bay part of the ac wiring, so if it's electrical I'd assume it's under the dash?!

Thanks for the help
Cody

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Most likely low/out of refrigerant. there is a pressure switch, which prevents compressor operatin when low on charge. switch is usually on the drier. You can jumper the terminals, just to see if the compressor engages. Do not run it this way, it will damage the compressor, from lack of lubrcation. There might be a pressure switch by the expansion valve at the firewall, that would need to be jumpered, also.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Ok thanks Charlie. There are a couple switches by the firewall for the ac so I'll jump those and see if the clutch works. If so I'll get some more refrigerant for the system.

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Ok bypassed the switches. Clutch works. So I'm out of refrigerant, I went to shucks and the don't have r12. Where can I get r12?

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Mexico.

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Joshua

ebay


You'll need EPA 609 certification

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Haha nice Josh. What about that freeze 12 stuff? It said you need to completely empty the system. Would that work?

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Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

R-12 is still available, but it is pretty expensive, so you don't want it to leak out. You should really get the system leak tested/repaired. Before adding any refrigerant, you need to evacuate the system to remove any air/moisture, and I would highly recommend changing the drier.
I do not recommend using any refrigerant, other then R-12 or R134a after a proper retrofit.

PS: The price of R-12 has been dropping do to less demand. Most all cars that used R-12 have either been taken off the road, or have already been retrofitted. Most cars that still use R-12 are "classics" that want to stay original.
Wait till you see the price for the new auto A/C refrigerant, that will be used as of the 2013 model year (possibly some 2012). It is called HO1234YF, and is projected to cost about $2,000 per 30lb drum.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Legally, but individual sellers on E-bay don't worry about that.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

R-12 is still available, but it is pretty expensive, so you don't want it to leak out. You should really get the system leak tested/repaired. Before adding any refrigerant, you need to evacuate the system to remove any air/moisture, and I would highly recommend changing the drier.
I do not recommend using any refrigerant, other then R-12 or R134a after a proper retrofit.

PS: The price of R-12 has been dropping do to less demand. Most all cars that used R-12 have either been taken off the road, or have already been retrofitted. Most cars that still use R-12 are "classics" that want to stay original.
Wait till you see the price for the new auto A/C refrigerant, that will be used as of the 2013 model year (possibly some 2012). It is called HO1234YF, and is projected to cost about $2,000 per 30lb drum.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

No. Not unless you want to trash your A/C system and have to do extensive/expensive repairs and then fill it with the correct refrigerant. Use R12 or do a proper conversion to R134a (those $20 "retrofit kits" from the parts store don't count as proper).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

That's HFO1234yf (or R1234yf), and it looks like the initial price will be high, but so was the initial price of R134a.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Some do, I had to scan my card and send it to the seller when I bought mine.

I think ebay is requiring it.

If you find a seller that only has 2 cans you probably don't need it.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes