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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:27 am 
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Location: Holland, OH
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Quick question. For a 1970 swinger, how does the fuel sending unit ground wire attach? I noticed one end was dangling and, as far as I can tell, the other end appeared to be attached somewhere to the top of the fuel tank. Any help would be appreciated. Any pics?

Thanks,
Scott

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 6:06 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
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Location: Downeast Maine
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There is a metal ground strap that bonds (electrical speak for; ‘connects two items electrically’) 5/16â€￾ metal tube of sending unit to metal fuel line leading to fuel pump. It bridges the non conductive flexible tubing connecting fuel line to sending unit as seen [url=http://www.yearone.com/pco/1_0210/full.asp?page=325]here[/url].

That center tube sticking out of the fuel tank leading connecting to fuel line has to be grounded in some way. Those ground straps are available from several venders, or you can rig up some kind of clamp & wire at tube that bonds to frame of car with an eye & screw.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:05 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Those ground straps are available from several venders, or you can rig up some kind of clamp & wire at tube that bonds to frame of car with an eye & screw.
I had problems with mine, replaced it with a new one and still had problems. I took a couple pieces of fat wire and 2 small hose clamps and fabbed it up and been working like a champ since. Go Fig?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:34 am 
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1 BBL (New)

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Location: Holland, OH
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Thats what I'm looking for!!

Thank you much!!

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http://www.freewebs.com/1949convertible/index.htm


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:16 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Downeast Maine
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wjajr wrote:
Those ground straps are available from several venders, or you can rig up some kind of clamp & wire at tube that bonds to frame of car with an eye & screw.
I had problems with mine, replaced it with a new one and still had problems. I took a couple pieces of fat wire and 2 small hose clamps and fabbed it up and been working like a champ since. Go Fig?
Well no 69a100, that scenario is quite reasonable for this reason; any electrical connection has to be competent. In other words it has to flow electrons with little or no resistance. After all, electrical current is just the flow of electrons along a path, in cars, it is along some type of metallic conductor; wire, steel tubing, frame of car, engine parts, etc.

The trick to getting that new strap to flow electrons would be clean connections of conductors all the way back to the negative battery terminal. I suspect that the downfall of your first attempt was corroded surfaces, or a coating of some non-conducting material between fuel sender tube, and fuel line.

Sometimes the clips holding a fuel line to frame of car are badly rusted and inserted into corroded attachment holes. To flowing electrons this connection looks like a number of parallel resistors that stop or greatly reduce any flow.

By attaching a big fat wire, I suspect with a few hose clamps, scratched through any corrosion and or coating such as paint or under coating etc. making a good electrical connection.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:19 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2003 4:51 pm
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wjajr wrote:
Those ground straps are available from several venders, or you can rig up some kind of clamp & wire at tube that bonds to frame of car with an eye & screw.
I had problems with mine, replaced it with a new one and still had problems. I took a couple pieces of fat wire and 2 small hose clamps and fabbed it up and been working like a champ since. Go Fig?
Well no 69a100, that scenario is quite reasonable for this reason; any electrical connection has to be competent. In other words it has to flow electrons with little or no resistance. After all, electrical current is just the flow of electrons along a path, in cars, it is along some type of metallic conductor; wire, steel tubing, frame of car, engine parts, etc.

The trick to getting that new strap to flow electrons would be clean connections of conductors all the way back to the negative battery terminal. I suspect that the downfall of your first attempt was corroded surfaces, or a coating of some non-conducting material between fuel sender tube, and fuel line.

Sometimes the clips holding a fuel line to frame of car are badly rusted and inserted into corroded attachment holes. To flowing electrons this connection looks like a number of parallel resistors that stop or greatly reduce any flow.

By attaching a big fat wire, I suspect with a few hose clamps, scratched through any corrosion and or coating such as paint or under coating etc. making a good electrical connection.
I sure hope your not implying that I didn't clean surfaces first before installing the new strap? Because if you are, then your way out of line because I did! I have not only had this problem on said vehicle, but others as well and find the strap being the problem with design.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:59 pm 
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I sure hope your not implying that I didn't clean surfaces first before installing the new strap? Because if you are, then your way out of line because I did!
Um, yeah…no. He didn't disparage your ancestors or impugn your motives or call into question your ability to fix your truck. He made the very reasonable, valid point that all points of contact need to be clean, clean, clean. Untwist yer knickers, dude. :roll:

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