I'd be checking the radiator core as well , we were having hells trouble with our 63 Valiant, I had flushed and pressure washed the radiator 3 times, but still had heatnig probs, thought it was timing valves and fuel, till my Uncle Jon convinced me to take off the top tank, I found a scum off what I assume were calcium deposits blocking the flutes, cleaned it out soldered the top back on , bingo! now she runs too cold but hey better than cracking something, RAYCYCLED

So I know this is a big no-no but I sorta kinda got my pushrods mixed up on accident. Is there a way to figure out which ones go where or does it really matter. Also, there is a small hole in the side of the shaft of all of the pushrods. Should this be the lifter side or the rocker arm side? Should hear back from the machine shop in the morning. I will let y'all know what I hear.

The pushrods can go in any position. Nothing bad will happen so long and none are worn funny. You need to do a valve adjustment anyhow. The lifters and pushrods spin so that hole is going to move.

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Joshua

Ok, cool. I was wondering. The hole I'm talking about isn't the hole that runs the length of the tube. It's on the side of the tube toward one end. I'm guessing it should go on the bottom but I'm not 100% positive.

Slant six pushrods in a solid lifter motor are solid. Hydraulic lifter slant six pushrods are hollow with a passage running longitudinally through the rod. No slant six pushrod has a hole drilled in the side at one end. Please post a picture or two of what you are talking about.

I'm at work now but will post a picture in the morning. They have a passage running the length of the rod. This that I am talking about may even be from the manufacturing process. I can't remember exactly. Either way, pictures will be posted when I get home.

Ok, here is a pic. Looking at it now I believe that it's just from manufacturing the pushrod. However, I am kinda confused. If only the hydraulic set up had an oil passage and mine is a '71 shouldn't it not have an oil passage through the length of the pushrod and shouldn't the ends be different than they are? I just looked up a pushrod at rock auto and the end looked much different than mine for a '71 but it may have been a generic photo. Both ends of my pushrod have this round ball...

Your slant valve train is oiled through a passage in the rocker shaft, not through the pushrods.

If both ends of the pushrod have a ball you have a hydraulic lifter engine. You'll also have no adjusting screws on the rocker arms. Hydraulic valve train engines were introduced in the 1981 model year and all have cast crankshafts. That is not the original engine to the car unless someone swapped in the hydraulic valve train pieces and that's a big job.

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Joshua

Nice... Well, I'm kinda pissed about that. So I wonder if my head gasket and all that will work with this engine? Probably not. Think I will give the people I bought it from a ring...

I went and looked at the casting numbers on the block, which I didn't think about doing earlier, and low and behold, 06 30 82. Looks like someone pulled a fast one on me. The head gasket seems to fit but I am guessing those intake and exhaust valve seals I got are useless.

The head gasket is the same as are the valve stem seals. Personally, I would be excited to find a hydraulic motor in my 73 car. I like hydraulic motors because thy are quieter and don't require valve lash adjustment. Then again, I am a weirdo and I don't drag race or try and install a performance cam.

The only part you have which won't work on the hydraulic lifter engine is the valve cover gasket.

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Joshua

I did find when I was looking at buying it that it was super quiet. You could barely tell it was even running. I guess I'm not all that upset. I don't plan to hop it up really. I just wanted the reliability of the old forged crank. I guess this one shouldn't give me any trouble either though right? Plus the fact that it was supposed to have so low miles on it and now I have no idea how many miles it has. I stopped by the head shop today and gave them my seals and checked progress. The head should be done tomorrow even though I won't be able to pick it up due to my schedule until wednesday. They cleaned, milled, pressure tested, replaced all the exhaust valve guides, knurled the intake guides and replaced the seals, removed two plugs and cleaned a passage of some kind and slapped it back together for $258. Not too bad I guess I don't know.

My head isn't ready. Said they have to put it back together and it should be done tomorrow. Whatever, I'm not in a huge hurry anyway so it's cool. I was thinking, the radiator has two small pin holes in it and the previous owner put that crap in there at some time to plug it and the radiator has that brown junk all in it. I was wondering how to get that crap out? Should I take the whole car to a radiator shop when I get it running or take the radiator alone so as not to get that crap in my newly cleaned head? I'm going to assume that it is in the block too and water pump so I would think if I could get the whole system flushed all together that would be best but don't know if there is a way to do that to get all that junk out or should I not even worry about it?