According to the articles below, if you have an early A-body with a gas gauge that reads low, adding a newer type voltage regulator probably still won't make the gas gauge work right.

http://slantsix.org/articles/instrument ... nt_reg.htm

http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/ml-i ... tor64.html


So, is there a cheap way to fix this?

Is there a late 60s or newer gas gauge that can be fit into a 63 instrument panel?
Or can the 63 gas gauge be modified so the old internal regulator is removed from the circuit?

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

The newer regulator will work fine if you disable the regulator inside the gas gauge. You can very carefully open it up and just jam the points permanently open. The new regulator then just has to feed the 5V side somewhere - the gas gauge's former 5V output pin is a good spot. You could also cut the very fine heating wire wrapped around the arm to the points to reduce waste heat, although it isn't essential.

It's been years since I did it, but I don't remember it being hard. The face of the gauge is delicate and hard to clean, but new decals are available. I used Testors model orange paint and a small brush to touch up the needle - put some paper under the needle when I did it to avoid getting any on the face.

Thanks.
That sounds doable.

I wonder why the gas gauge modification (with pictures) was never included in the instrument cluster voltage regulator upgrade articles.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

See here.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Wow! That is excellent.
Thanks again, Dan.

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

I didn't bend that contact arm like they did.

I just desoldered and disconnected the wire from the Ign terminal to the solder lug on the back of one of the points.
With the points closed, an ohmmeter shows there is no continuity between the Ign terminal (14v) and voltage limiter output terminal.

There were some tiny rivets securing the face.
I ground them off with a cheap dremel-type tool with a ball-tipped grinder bit.
I used 0-80 x 1/4 machine screws and nuts in place of the rivets.

It worked. Nice to have a working temp gauge too.

http://i53.tinypic.com/316q7h0.jpg

http://i53.tinypic.com/2j1kf3o.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/5lrmlu.jpg

(I put a piece of heatshrink around one of the contacts, just to be safe.)

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63 Signet / 10 inch front drums / weber 2bbl / HEI / 2.76 rear end

I'm in Australia so when i go to buy a regulator to fix my gauges what am i asking for? i have gone over Chucks fix page and no mention or the specs , RAY