E85 varies from E75 to E85 depending on the time of year.........

(more gas in winter for cold starts)

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Has anyone here called Gerry at G-Pop Shop for their turbo needs? He is a fellow slanter and knows his turbos. He is also working on a turbo Slant for himself. I have purchased two from him and they have worked well for what we wanted. www.gpopshop.com Later
Ryan

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
Follow on Instagram - turbo66valiant
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

Ryan gives good advice there. Easiest thing would be to copy the turbo he has, since we know it works well!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

HA. It's funny you should mentioned copying his turbo Lou as I have been thinking about just that for a few days. Ryan's however if I remember correctly is a T-70 or T-76. Which I THINK if I can get a small enough turbine housing it should spool quicker for me. Ryan I never asked but do you have head work and cam done? If so then I guess I could use what A/R turbine housing you have but mines not going to be strickly a strip car. So I want something that will give me good street performance but if I did take it to the strip it would work well there too. I am not sure if a T-70 series will work real well on the street without the smaller A/R turbine housing I mentioned earlier to make it spool quicker for better street performance. The T-76 looks good to me as far as the map goes. I am still gonna have to figure out what to do with the intercooler since I don't want to cut the car up. I'd really like for it to go behind the grill but as I said before I can't fit a very big intercooler behind it because the grill is angled forward from the factory which makes the bottom thinner and also the brackets on the inside of the grill attached it to the rad support limit the size even further. I may have to put it underneath the bumper like Ryan has his I just wanted the stealth factor. I really liked the Subaru style setup Ryan had before. Anyway I was also thinking about the E85 thing and I was wondering if you could mix E85 and regular gas so I didn't have to change all the fuel lines and all that. I ran some Cam-2 (at 6 bucks a gallon) in her once and it didn't hurt the rubber hoses but I just ran a gallon mixed with regular gas. Anyone think it's even worth it to mix? I don't think theres alot of rubber in the fuel line system is there? I can only think of 2 spots and the rubber hoses are small.

Any Alky in the fuel line is a problem even the 10% (yeah right) will give you problems down the road.
JMO
Frank

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Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Say, cam is .465 lift and 220 duration @ 50. Head work is minimal. A/R on the hot side is .58. Gerry had to custom mate it to my T70. A higher A/R would have been fine but he put heavy Stage 5 internals in it. I couldn't get a shorter intercooler in the 4" core thinkness without going custom. Wanted a 8" or even a 10" tall but couldn't do it. I have a 12"er. If you think the T70 may not work, the T76 won't work either. Remember, I ran in the 10's with the 12x12 Subaru style intercooler. It would work on the street with a heat shield. Goodluck getting one behind the grill.

E-85 is roughly 15% gas. It all depends on the type of pump and season. I have a few friends running E-85 on their hot rods. Works good but you need bigger fuel line and a better pump. I may run it in the future. Later
Ryan

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
Follow on Instagram - turbo66valiant
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

Ryan so you use a T70 not a T76? For some reason I was thinking T76, oh well. I would imagine your setup would work ok on the street since you've got a small A/R turbine housing. I looked at some T76s from Precision and the smallest housing they seem to offer was a .81 or something which I think is a lil too large and would make the turbo kick in too late to be useful on the street. I'll bet with your small housing the T70 kicks in fairly quickly. Ryan where did you get your T70 at? GPops? How much did it run you if I may ask? And can anyone recommend a wastegate valve size? I understand if you choose too small bad stuff happens and if you choose too big more bad stuff happens. I'm guessing for 8-10lbs a 40mm would be too big? Looks like 40mm is good for 500hp so I guess I need smaller than 38mm.

Give Gerry a call.

My wastegate is a 60mm

Later
Ryan

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10.74 @ 127.47 mph 1320 ft
6.65 @ 107.80 mph 660 ft

http://www.youtube.com/c/turbo66valiant
Follow on Instagram - turbo66valiant
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/ryan.peterson.737

So much info, but none on blow through carbs. I gleaned some info on a good candidate: A Holley 2300 pn7448 350 CFM 2bbl. Lots of info on these carbs, good flow, infinite tuning, fits on a 2bbl with an adapter and a little port matching of the iron intake and pulls the correct way for an EZ kickdown linkage. And the top airhorn is a very common size for carb hats. The power valves are numerous, jets are plentiful and modding them is a matter of drilling out the 2 holes behind the power valve for a blow through and possible getting solid floats. The boost overcomes the vacuum that keeps the power valve closed, opening the PVR and letting more fuel in. These increases the jet size 8 sizes before any modifications, drill 'em out and you get more than 8 jet sizes but be careful, double the area doubles the perceived jet size. eg. a 1mm PVR drilled out to 1.412 would double the area and fuel flow.A wideband O2 sensor is very helpful, and a lot of wire guage drill bits...There are some really inexpensive turbos out there now. Looks promising.

Well its finally time to get this goin. Money is ready so I'm putting the turbo kit together. Im goin to go with a Gn turbo to start out. Should be buying one this Sunday or Monday. Haven't yet decided on what im goin to do for an intercooler. I wondered if I could make the stock Gn intercooler work. The turbo im looking at has an adjustable wastegate in it so I can dial the boost back some to start tuning later.all the piping is taken care as I know a guy that runs an exhaust shop. Im getting everything I can get that's attached to the turbo including the oil/water lines even tho I may not be able to use them I can get an idea on the line sizes if I need to make custom ones. I am goin with a j pipe to hook the manifold to the turbo which brings a question for those who are using a j pipe or at the very least haven't cut the manifold to mount the turbo. The question is where are you guys putting the turbo? And what have you done for bracing of the turbo? Also where have you all tapped for the oil lines? Water lines? I have my own ideas but id like to hear from you guys on what you came up with. The motor is being rebuilt at the same time so im going to try to have pics of the whole deal to show you guys. Also the stock fuel pump will support something like 15 psi right? Im goin to tap the stock pump like the article on this site did. Anyway tell me your thoughts on everything guys. Looking forward to hearing from y'all.

I ran a "J pipe" as its described. I bought a 14g 2.5 180 from an industrial mandrel bent tube place for 20 bucks, (its so heavy walled that I dont run any bracing but might run a threaded rod and a turnbuckle between the turbo and an intake stud off a rod connector) I cut it at the proper angle to get the J to come straight up and forward of the steering box. My 65 steering box is closer than 67 and up so I had to rotate the J forward about 45 degrees and grind some of the motor mount away to get clearance. To save you some Exhaust fab work, clock the J so when you mount the turbo, the exhaust flange (if pointing straight back) lines up to the left of the steering column as looking into the motor. I ended up running a flex pipe (to my dismay) from the flange to the downpipe because I was bout 2 inches into my steering column. Weld your Turbo flange/plate to the top and bolt her up. I ran a piece of 1/2 rigid tubing I had from a truck EGR seteup that had a 45 degree bend in it already and welded it to the oil flange. Cut a 45 at the end where it runs into the pan and trace where it hits. Put a 1/2 hole in the pan (above the oil line) with a vari-bit and work it a little sideways to get the proper oval hole and tack the pipe into the hole. Run a bead around it and finish it off with a smear of RTV and a shot of red paint. Cut the pipe in the middle so you can remove the turbo without removing the flange and slip a piece of 1/2 hose over the union and secure with worm clamps. For oil, I tapped off the oil pressure sender with a brass street Tee (you can drill and tap the "tombstone" boss on the driver side of the block above the 3/4 core plug if you want, its documented on this site) . I mounted the sender off the through leg to keep it aligned with the original, and ran an old transmission cooler line up to the valve cover and forward along the base of the cover using the wire tabs as retainers. Bent it across the front and down to the oil inlet that I brought up from the turbo flange. Join them with a short piece of hydraulic type hose. For water cooling (optional on my CT26 turbo), I might run it off the temperature sender with a T again, and run the return to the heater core return line. For a carb hat, I have a weird GMC badged hat, maybe off a diesel, but the flange is smaller than my Holley so Ill have to mod the base to get it to seal to my holley. A cheap alternative to a designed carb hat is a spun aluminum carb cover sold on Ebay for 10 bucks. Cut a hole in the side and weld a pipe into it and seal with epoxy. Run the pressure tube from the turbo intercooler to this flange. Im using the boost referenced fuel pump also as Im only running 9 psi. Carb mods we limited to opening the PVCR's to .078, and sealing the baseplate choke rod holes with epoxy and removing the choke horn as well as using a .140 fuel seat. We'll see if the brass floats hold up. Solids are available.

Thanks for the info pishta. I plan to run a holley 2300 on mine. I want to do the hangar 18 mod but im really afraid im gonna screw it up and make the carb unusable or something. I noticed in a previous post you mentioned doin this mod to this particular carb and you seem to understand it better than I do. You didn't seem mention doin the brpv mod to it which is the mod that bothers me the most about doin cause im most likely to screw it up. Wuickfuel wants at least 300 bucks to do a blow through conversion on a holley 2300 which is not gonna happen.

I was told pulling your oil from that flat spot on the back passenger side of the block will rob oil from #6 rod bearing or soemthing like that can't remember. I pulled my oil feed line off the back of the oil pump put a fitting where that big plug is toward the back side of the pump.

Kev

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Kev where did you end up putting your return line? And do your charge pipes go under the rad support or through it?

Pipes go under only cutting for the intercooler piping i did was the support for the hood latch mechanism cut all that below the actualy latch off and made a new bracket to hold the intercooler and to make the hood stuff firm again, regular hood pop works still. My return line going into a a threaded bung i welded into the side of the oil pan lined right up with the 3rd main cap right below the gasket rail so it's above the oil level in the pan.

Kev

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