Pishta could you maybe get some pics of your setup? Im goin to have the same problems you did it with space. I've git power steering which takes up alot of room in general but is really gonna cause a problem with okay placing the turbo. Looks like ill have to move the battery to the trunk because its looking like that's the only spot I can put it. Anyway pics of your setup might help. Thanks

I got nothing online at the moment, ill get a few tonight. Mine would interfere with the old battery tray too. It may fit, but it would cook it.

So im guessing you moved your battery? Yes whenever you can get the pics id appreciate it. Thanks

My battery is in the trunk also

Kev

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Kev you've got more room under your hood than me or pishta and you still had to move the battery? Well I don't feel too bad about my cramped engine bay now. I figured you 67 n up guys would have a much easier time with space. I have noticed a pattern with alot of peoples pics of their setups on here . Most if not all have their turbos sitting where the battery should be n after looking under my hood I can see why. Its really the only place to put it like I said before. Looks like ill be starting this project Monday morning. Hopefully it works out.

Well I guess I did have room but I figured why fight with it since I liked the cleaner look without the battery their not to mention thats where I wanted the turbo so i could pull the cool air outside the bay get a breeze through the grill over the turbo. I thought it was a plus to have the battery in the trunk +cleaner+wieght on the back tires+got that race car feel put a smile on my face

Kev

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Yes, what he said! Here is my almost complete, pics were in the middle of a wiring project so dont hate, turbo project. This is in a narrow '65 A so it may look a little tighter than a 67 or newer.




Notice J pipe is at about 45 degrees from block, should have been a little more to clear steering column as seen in pic 6. Youll need to clearance motor mount bracket for desired angle. Oil drain goes straight into block at 45 degrees, cant be under 35 I believe, 1/2 inch tube, cut and sleeved so you can remove turbo without taking flange off bottom. If it doesnt leak, ill shoot the weld/sealer with red paint. Pic 5 shows oil line fed from oil pressure sender port, off street T. Goes up and across valve cover rail instead of under pan so I could remove pan if I had to. Shiny AL ducting is waiting for my carb hat, this was from a turbo off a 240SX I bought a while ago as well as the cone air cleaner. Ill most likely move cone away from fan, maybe a duct to the hole in the radiator support thats very close and some sort of filter. Its almost there!
CT-26 Toyota Supra Turbo
9 PSI internal wastegate regulated
.078 PVCR drilled Holley 350
Electronic ignition
dual field alternator conversion
1 piece kickdown
2.5 j pipe and down pipe
3" spintech muffler
-- (next phase) --
boost referenced fuel pump mod

Thanks for the pics pishta I saved them to my phone for reference. Looks like you've got manual steering is that right? If so you've got more room than I do. I've gotta 66 a body so we r pretty identical under the hood. What size lines did you use for your oil lines?

youll have plenty of room for power steering. The oil line is a transmission cooler line that I had hanging up. almost long enough for 1 piece. If you went under the pan, it should fit. CT26 has a weird oil flange, in and out are on the same flange, internally, the turbo routes the pressure to the bearings and the runoff is out the same flange that covers 2 ports. Need water lines run next.

Ok im having an issue. I've heard that you wanna use the 2300 holley for blow through. First of all it seems like mopar only used them on six pack cars and the only other places to get them are on fords n chevys which the kickdown n throttle wont work. The carb it self is almost 300 bucks. What should I do here? Is there another carb that will work with blow through just as easily but is easier to find n has the mopar linkage?

I got mine off a 62 ford 352 truck, 24 bucks on Ebay. Chryco linkage? My 65 had a cable that pulled, that's all it took. I used a longer cable from a 67+ and the throttle cable bracket from the 2bbl truck I got the intake from. I would have used the 2bbl kickwoen but the truck was a mnanual. I just made a solid kickdown (like later cars or vans used) and attached it to a stud off the throttle arm. Its also the stud my return spring is tied to. Its running through a slotted piece like other kickdowns do. Make sure at WOT the kickdown is applying 100% travel to the trans kickdown, let it relax with the carb with a weak spring pulling it forward, just enough so it doent rattle like Mopar did years ago. Old carb Blow throughs are not that complicated, drill out pvcr's, remove choke horn and rods and seal holes on air cleaner flange. BRPV's don't seem to be needed if under 10 lbs boost as one other running turbo guy told me, neither are solid floats but well see.

I've got a cable setup on mine too since I converted to the super six. I've been looking at ebay n haven't found anything yet. I have no idea how to use a carb with ford linkage. Also I've seen on a few sites that you have to have an adapter to make the 2300 work on a stock intake even in a v8.

Well I did more searchin on ebay and found alot of 2300s cheap. Also found some big holley 2 barrels off big block and 360 mopar. This got me wondering, can any holley be made for blow through just as easily and work just as well as the 2300 or is the 2300 the only one that works well with blow through? The mopar holleys I found r cheap and will bolt right on n work with my linkage. I don't mind using the 2300. Pishta can you elaborate a lil more on how you got the carb to bolt on and use your linkage? Pics would help

My Autolite carb (licensed from Holley) is off an old pickup or something, (I changed bowl to cathedral center hung bowl from side hung square bowl because I already had a fuel fitting and 90 line, otherwise you can use the original) it had a manual choke and maybe even a manual throttle control for a PTO (the slide on top) all I did to adapt the the Super 6 style carb mount (it was never a 2300 but a carter BBD) was to purchase an adapter Stromberg/Carter to Holley, MrGasket part 1937 this allowed the smaller bolt pattern to line up. You may want to port the 6 intake to better match up to the Holley bores. then notch the carb throttle arm to accept the Mopar cable clip without binding (it pulls down, not straight back so it binds if you dont cut a triangle out, see sharpie line on carb throttle bellcrank). I used the original super 6 throttle cable bracket that mounts to the exhaust manifold. Existing hole in bellcrank is used for kickdown/return stud. If I need more travel ill use the higher hole in the bellcrank. Small amount of travel will give harsh light load shifts. I tried pulling the cable straight back with the Mopar cable but I didnt get full WOT as the bellcrank seems to go past where the cable runs out of pull (Bellcrank hole seems to start at about 1:00 and goes to 4:00, past full rear pull) that is why I used the longer cable and came up from the bottom, otherwise I would have used the shorter 65 cable. Existing cable brackets on carb are for manual throttle and choke. would have been nice to use those but they are useless past about 1/2 throttle. Oh yes, Im using a 61 jet, well see if that is good. Its been told to me the larger your PVCR, the smaller your main jet can be.

I am still wondering if I can use any holley carb and it work as well. I've got a bbd on the car now. So if I change to a bigger 2 barrel id have to use an adapter?