I recently put my belvedere with a 225 /6 on the road and am having some idling issues. The four barrel set up and headers are from clifford and the carb is an edelbrock 500cfm. The car was idling fine but after a shake down run it will no longer idle. It is acting like there is a vacuum leak but I checked all the hoses, and gaskets an there isnt one. I pulled the idle mixture screws out and they appeared dry. Anyone have a similar problem and possible remedy?

Let's start from the beginning. You set the idle and mixture once the choke was fully off, and the car was at operating temperature, yes?

New, or second hand Edelbrock? did you check the float levels regardless?

What are the jets, metering rods, and metering rod springs?

Mods to the engine? Distributor? Any other mods we should know about?

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

The idle was set with the choke fully off after the engine was warmed up for about 5 min. The engine idled well around 600rpm. I purchased the Edelbrock carb brand new in 2007. I drove the car about 15 miles before it began idling rough and began stalling when the car was brought to a stop. Other than the headers and intake no other major modifications have been made to the engine. The distributor has new points, condenser, rotor and cap. Spark plugs are new E3's and the wires are accel high performance.

Primary jets are .086, secondary are .095. Metering rods are .065x.052. Spring is 5". Float level is 7/16.

Did you go through the carb and give it a good cleaning prior to installation? Might have some crud knocked loose. Spiders and what not.
There are air bleeds that may have become plugged with the storage time.

The e3's wouldn't be my choice. That shouldn't be the reason for your idle problem unless something went south with them.
You have basically stock compression? NGK ZFR5N in a drool tube head is a good option.

Some gaskets can be an issue with square bore carburetors. The throttle plates can get hung up on them and cause problems. Did you check to make sure the gaskets beneath the plates were of adequate size? Some four hole square bore gaskets are for smaller venturis and the plates can get stuck.

Let's see. The Secondary air valve should operate freely, and fully close. If it's getting hung up for some reason, that could cause a problem.
Leaking vacuum advance pod. Power booster for the brakes? Common leak point.
Do you have an automatic? Is the kickdown linkage/cable binding and holding the throttle lever off the idle stop screw?

5 minutes isn't a lot of warmup time. Did you try to reset? I normally have to drive a few miles before I can get my engine up to temperature enough to set things. I don't run a choke, so it is pretty cold blooded.

Just brain storming here....

CJ

500 Carter AFB

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Shoot, double check your distributor hold down clamp.

If the timing retarded, that would do it quick.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

How old is the gas... how clean is the fuel system?

Have you checked under the valve cover for a "jumped" push rod, "sticky" valve guides or tight valve lash?
DD

With the car running, look down the and see if there are any drips. If there are, you will need to change inlet needles and reset the floats.

Found a significant crack on the under side of the manifold gasket. Thanks to all for the advice.