I've been having some trouble with my truck again. I'm about done with it this time. I've done the fuel line mod already and hei. Here's the deal. Since last week it's been missfiring. Looked at the plugs, they were all fouled up. Got new plugs a couple days ago and it ran a little better. Yesterday went to get in my truck and go after letting it sit for half an hour, wouldn't start, sat there cranking off and on for 5 minutes- nothing. Had to use starting fluid to get it started. Even with the new plugs it still misfires. Ignition module has a bigger than needed heat sink mounted to fender. The Holley 1920 pulls 11" of vaccum. The 1945 wouldn't even idle long enough to check vaccum and it was so speratic I couldn't get a good reading. Checked needle and seats of both carbs with vac pump, they're fine. Carb mount nuts are as snug as they're gonna get. And for some odd reason the 1920 still lopes like it has a huge cam in it (stock cam). All ports on both carbs have been blown out with compressed air multiple times.

The 10lbs sledge hammer in the corner of the garage is looking mighty fine right now.

Thanks for any help
Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Is this an old shot motor? What is the compression on the each of the cylinders?

With that much oil leaking down and fouling your plugs your valve guides must be pretty worn and the valve guide seals maybe cracked, broken or missing.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

The engine is original, has almost 89k original miles. Used to be Oregon government owned. I did notice one day I was parked on hill in second. 1st is granny. And it started rolling back. And my friend who was with me said that means bad compression, which I knew. I don't have a gauge so I have never tested it. But I changed the plugs I just replaced when I did a tune up in January. Also the plugs had a yellowish color on them. And there was more yellow the farther out from the middle ie, 3&4 were a little yellow, 2&5 more yellow, 1&6 even more yellow. Idk what that means but I know it's not good. I took the 1945 apart blew out all passages made sure everything worked. Float was way off so adjusted to specs and power valve was somewhat loose so tightened that.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Ok 1945 is back on. It runs much better there is a slight hesitation when giving it just barely any throttle between 1200-1500 Rome then after 1500 it's fine. If you gas it quickly its fine, no hesitations so accelerator pump is good. Hopefully it will last awhile till I Actually have the money to fix something.

Cody.

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Most likely you have a small vacuum leak, and or a weak accelerator pump shot. Engine’s are more sensitive to vacuum leak at low rpm than higher rpm because as the throttle is opened, volume of air & fuel increases to a point that a small a small vacuum leak becomes insignificant.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Thanks wjajr I'll check all the vacuum nipples on the carb to make sure all plugs and hoses are snug. Hold down nuts are as tight as they'd gonna get.

CodY

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

11" of vacuum is terrible! You should have almost double at idle.

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

Yeah I know. Um sooo a little update. I didn't tinker with it at all yesterday besides a compression test, here are results:
1-120psi
2-120psi
3-105psi
4-120psi
5-110psi
6-110psi

I went home from my friends house about an hour after the test. Made sure all plugs were snug and all plug wires connected to correct plug.

Hop in and it fired right up, only thing is it sounded like an old poppin Johnny Gave it a little gas and at higher rpm it did better. Already knew about the small vac leak as said in earlier post. Figured it had gotten bigger. My house is 17miles away, I decided I could make it. I made it home, but my exhaust sounded like a machine gun fight from a scene in Rambo and my truck was bouncing around the road like a rabbit jacked up on mt dew. I know the carb is tight, it's as tight as it's gonna get unless I use an impact gun. I'm going to check the intake nuts and make sure they are tight.

Cody

Ps I don't have any carb nipple based vac leaks already checked, and another thing, when I got it running better yesterday morning it was pulling a wavy 16-18" of vacuum.

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Are you sure you got the plug wires back on in the right order?

I have done this wrong... and it sounds kinda like a boat...

I'm sure. I even took out my factory service manual to double check.

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

16-18 is still too low

timing?

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick

[quote]The Holley 1920 pulls 11" of vaccum. The 1945 wouldn't even idle long enough to check vaccum and it was so speratic I couldn't get a good reading. [/quote]

One point, carburetors don’t pull vacuum, movement of pistons, cam event timing, and mechanical condition of engine & valve train dictate vacuum strength. Carburetors mix air & fuel based on how much vacuum signal they see at any given moment.

You tried two different carburetors, one wouldn’t let engine idle, the other worked a bit better, right?

I suppose that both your carburetors could be malfunctioning, but have you tried them on a well running engine to see if indeed they are in need of a rebuild?

Cranking down on carburetor nuts “all the wayâ€￾ is not a good method. Improper torque applied to nuts, and bolts in general is counter productive, and stretched fasteners. Also often can cause damage to a carburetor by warping its base. Once base is no longer flat, vacuum leaks are common, throttle plates may not fit properly causing idle problems, and cracked parts.

You should find a torque wrench, and torque all fasteners to factory recommended specification each time a repair is made. Following this procedure will result in a better and safer repair.

I still think you have a vacuum leak, most likely between carburetor base and intake manifold, carburetor throttle shaft, intake manifold and head, or in power brake system if you have them. Don’t discount a crack in manifold seam if it is aluminum.

Remove carburetor, place a straight edge in north-south, east-west, NE-SW, and NW-SE directions, look for distortion, or rather, cupping of its base. Using a light will help to see any distortion. If you discover any distortion, the base needs to be filed flat by using a #12 mill bastard file. This will take a bit of time, you will need to have a wire brush on hand to clean file as you go of aluminum build up.

Once carburetor is able to seat to manifold with out gaps, install with new gasket being careful not to over tighten the nuts.

To test for leaks around head to manifold, spray carburetor cleaner around each intake runner listening for change in idle speed, which is an indication that you have a leak at that spot.

To test brake vacuum, remove vacuum line of power brake booster at manifold, and seal off manifold nipple listening for idle quality change. If no change, booster & plumbing are ok.

On the electrical side of this problem; are your plug wires doing their job? Did you damage them when removing from plugs?

You are using a HEI that produces 10 to 15,000 additional volts over a stock ignition. Your plug wires may be leaking voltage to ground before it is delivered to respective spark plug. Observe the wires at night, if blue streaks are running along them, you need new wires capable of handling higher voltages. Or if each time you touch a plug wire you get bit, change them.

Give this [url=http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm]site[/url] a good read to help understand what can go wrong with plug wires.

Bill

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Ok thanks. I keep having to fix things so I'm kinda going crazy and not thinking right. The coil wire to the dizzy did shock me yesterday so I guess I need better wires. Both carbs have been rebuilt. All intake exhaust manifold bolts were torqued to specks. How would I look for a seem crack? My intake is aluminum. Just spray is with carb cleaner and look for leaks? I'll replace the carb mount gasket and I need new studs anyways. I got it to run with the 1945 and the engine pulled 15" of vac steady. But it really does sound like a poppin Johnny. And it gets worse the warmer it gets. Which leads me to believe it's a crack in the manifold, it gets worse with the heat because it expands and makes the crack bigger then when it cools down it gets smaller.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Just a tiny remark, there was a thread recently mentioning much of the same problems, and it turned out to be a distributor hold-down bolt not holding down as it should anymore...
Worth taking a look?

Olaf.

_________________
Aspenized

Well I took some carb cleaner and sprayed around the carb base. Turns out the throttle bushings on all of my carbs are worn So there is more money I'm gonna have to pull out of thin air.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.