So i still have the problem with slight dieseling, stalling if i press the gas a bit to hard at acceleration. and distinct lack of power... the only thing i can think of thats left that could be a cause of this is... the carb... possibly timing but we have that pretty much buttoned up... need to turn the distributor a bit more, sadly a little piece of plastic is blocking that and seems to be needed...


so i know it says to get all bugs out before installing... but should i just go ahead and install or break out the old revolver and put on in the block?

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

have you checked for vacuum leaks, egr valve,carb base, pcv hose or valve,usually dieseling is caused by the throttle open to much. what is you timing seat at?

I am with Terry on this one.....
Sounds like your timing is set below 10 degrees....or you got a lot of chain stretch.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

i dont think its the chain... since we just changed that with a nice dual link chain


the timing is the other part of it, the plate were u set the timing to isnt the correct one, we set it to "top dead center" according to the plate and we get stalling when we push the gas, now we are close since it is next to no dieseling, but we cant adjust it more because of a little tab that seems to be in the way on the distributor.

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

have you tried the bolt that is on the under side of the dist to give you more adj?

okay upon further inspection and testing without my father i noticed something, when cold the thing runs dam near perfect... when it warms up i have to slowly press the gas or the thing stalls...

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

that might be your acclerator pump in the carb,when the engine is cold the choke keeps it rich so a small pump shot might not be noticed but when choke come off the charge is leaner so the engine will stall. i don`t think this is to cause of your lack of power.

i dont believe it to be either its another problem i had no answer to, but that is a big problem that has me worried for when i go get my drivers test sometime next week... yes im a 20 yr old with a 37 yr old car that doesn't have his license... i bought the car before i even had my permit.

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

With the engine off and the air cleaner off look down the throat of the carb and pull on the throttle cable or shaft. How big of a pump shot (squirt) do you see? Is it massive? or weak...? That is what causes the stumble or hesitation when it's warm. That is what Terry is explaining to you. The choke covers that up when it's cold. Soon as the choke goes off, then you have the problem. Tighten up the linkage on the accelerator pump or change holes on the linkage until you get a real healthy pump shot.

If the outlet hole inside the carb throat is partially corroded and blocking the fuel, run a guitar "E" string down the hole to clear it or some stiff mono-filament fishing line....

If the pump shot is still weak, then you need to replace the accelerator pump diaphragm. What condition is the spring behind the diaphragm?

Which carb do you have??? Holley or Carter? SL6 Dan has posted some great info and carb manuals under Engine FAQ.

Report back and let us know.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

its a 1 bbl holley 1945.

EDIT: it has what seems to be a squirt of gas, it reminds me of having the faucet just barely on not dripping but a tiny stream with breakages in the stream early on... the squirt was okish strong, probably went half way across the carb before disappearing

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

update: the accelorator pump rocker arm with the 3 slots is set to manual i use an automatic, how much of a difference would this make??

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

so i take it from the silence that either i am an idiot and it makes a lot of difference or it makes little to no difference


btw it wasnt me who put it on manual... it was the professional that we took it to to get it rebuilt, since me or my dad hadnt rebuilt a carb in over 5 yrs...

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

The pump arm slot won't make too much of a difference.

From reading your post, it sounds like you have several areas to look at.

(1) Did you degree the cam? The cam alignment hole on the cam gear and the alignment dots on the cam and crank gears can be off due to errors in manufacturing. Your cam might be enough out of time with the crank to cause drive-ability problems.

(2) It sounds like you don't have an accurate way to set your timing. This is a big issue. You need to install the proper timing tab/timing chain cover and crank damper to set your timing correctly. Also, have you checked the crank damper for outer ring slip? Over time, the outer ring on the vibration damper can slip and cause the timing mark to be off. I once saw one that was off a full 8 degrees.

(3) It also sounds like you might have either a vacuum leak or the carb adjusted too lean.

If I were you, I would start by fixing the ability to accurately check and set your timing. From there, check for vibration dampener slip, then check for vacuum leaks. If all that checks out, check for a vacuum leak, then check for misadjusted carb. If none of that fixes the problem, time to degree the cam.

well the carb is adjusted a bit lean because to much more out and i got myself a nice hunk of engine that doesnt want to stay moving, not even a half a turn one way or another and the thing starts to stall out mid throttle

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74 plymouth duster, 225 single barrel slant six

Sounds like you have some timing AND carb problems. Back to the drawing board. Time to spend some time with a factory service manual verifying the settings on the carb and verify ing the base timing of the ignition and cam. Have you checked for functional vacuum advance in the distributor? Is the vacuum advance pod blown and no longer holding a vacuum?