I have the Valiant at the shop for painting so I am not working on the car today. But I am working on the under hood wiring harness. I would like to make some changes and since I have it all out and unwrapped, now is the time to do it. I scanned a drawing of my ideas and want to make sure I'm not missing something. Electrical is not my strong suit. Thanks for taking a look.

Rick



I am moving the Alternator to the D/S and planned to use the existing Black and green wires. I was going to go ahead run another #10 wire from the Alternator over to the battery as mentioned in some other posts. Current Alternator won't need it, but it will be there if I upgrade later. Amp gauge has already been by passed. Coil and HEI will be mounted on the Valve cover. There is a nice bracket on the Valve cover that was for a Hose. It looks perfect for an Blaster coil. I plan to weld some studs to the Valve cover and mount a piece of aluminum to them and mount the HEI right beside the coil. Low Oil pressure switch is wired (yellow) to a toggle switch for easy starting. Original blue wire coming from the switch to the ballast resistor goes to the coil and the voltage regulator as original. (ballast resistor removed of course) But I want to tie that same wire to a painless wiring, 3 circuit, 50 amp relay center. This gives me full power to run some switched accesories (electric fan, fuel pumps...etc.) Purple wire to temp gauge will be removed and the Gray oil pressure light wire will be removed also. They aren't needed with the aftermarket gauges. Let me know if I am missing something.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Looks good overall, Rick. A few comments:

I don't understand what the wire from the alt main lug to (I guess) the bulkhead connector does? If you are going to the batt + and eliminating the ammeter, then that other wire seems unnecessary. Maybe you are going to run a voltmeter, and that's what it's for? I would suggest running either a voltmeter or an ammeter...

Also, what is the wire from the main starter relay lug to the switched 3 circuit fusebox? Seems redundant and I don't see what it connects to.

I would strongly recommend mounting your coil and HEI on the fender or firewall, maybe even under dash inside the car if you feel that's doable. Less heat and vibration to cause problems later, and easier to r'n'r VC for valve adjustments.

I have no experience with wiring the low OP cutoff to the - side of the coil (and no real experience with HEI yet), but this looks like it should work. Toggle in series is right, yes.

Can't wait to see you in the car and in action!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The wire from the bulkhead to alternator is the original Alternator wire. I thought I read in the Alternator upgrade thread that another #10 wire could be run directly from the Alternator (actually 2 #10) to the battery. I'm assuming to prevent so much current going through the bulkhead connector. I do plan to run a voltmeter. If I don't need the one wire I can eliminate it.

The wire from the starter relay to the switched fuse block is the main power for that 3 circuit fuse box. It just takes the switched 12V from the original ballast and triggers the relay so I have 3 more switched 12V circuits. Main power could come directly from the battery also, but since the starter relay will be closer, that is where I showed it tied to.

Again this may all be wrong, that is why I asked the experts before i did any cutting and adding to the harness.

Thanks,

The electrical Moron

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I went back and re-read the other post on the alternator upgrade and the original Alternator wire can be eliminated. Run 2 # 10's over to the battery and be done with it.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Dart270: I would not mount coil and HEI in cockpit, keep them in the engine compartment. Don’t worry about heat, these devices are designed to operate efficiently & safely under the hood with proper heat sink for GM controler. You don’t want any high voltage sources under dash, or devices the heat up such as a coil and spark controller.

Mount as Dart270 said, on fender in close proximity to distributer. Heck, the factory mounts coil in front of fuel pump where it receives plenty of air movement. My blaster 2 coil is in factory location where it is a short hop over to distributor, and works just fine.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Go for it, Rick! Wjajr is probably right about ign mounting in engine bay. This may see some street duty, right?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988