Good Day all, well i have about 5 miles on the new slant and after i tried setting the timing and adjusting the air/fuel mix screws i take it for a drive. Very short as i have no mufflers on the headers yet. I gat about 2 blocks and the carb hesitates (holley 390) so i step a couple times easy and all of a sudden its running like plugs or the wires have come off very rough and a loud tingy knoise comes from under the pan around 5-6 cyl and the torque conv. I did manage to get home idiling but the knock was loud and i finally coasted into the driveway. Valve cover removed and the top looks pretty dry with all the pre lube on the parts and not much oil puddled anywhere. I put a wire down all the cylinders to see if the pistons were still connected and all have the range of motion,no valve train parts are bent or broken and no holes from the bottom of the oil pan. When i spin the motor holding the fan ad belt things are moving but there is a tinny sound when i spin the motor. Same area 5-6 cyl to the torque converter. I havent taken it apart and am looing for a reliable mechanic as me and the family are going to Coasta Rica Sat and just want it to get fixed. Any help, suggestions, recommended mechanics. Im in eastern washington area Tri citys. Thanks to all.

Don't know about the running rough, but did you check the torque convertor bolts to see if they are tight. If they are not tight you can get a tinny noise from about the area you are describing.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Second that. Lose torque converter bolts will make the jingle bells-clinking noise.

Pop the starter out, turn engine over by hand checking torque converter bolts for tightness. You may have to clean their threads with brake cleaner, blow dry, and put blue locktite on them to kept them from working loose.

Running ruff, hard to say, but check valve lash, float level, and timing, distributor clamp may have been lose.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I will check the bolts after work today and post result. Carb and dist are both good, carb was overhauled as needed and dist is snug. All the symptoms happened at the same time while driving. Thanks for the tips.

What were the oil pressure readings?
You may want to drain the oil and cut-open the oil filter for inspection...
DD

I was kinda thinking burnt exhaust valve if u ran no exhaust and no hard seats, that could make a noticable tick and possibly make motor run funny

check for intake manifold gasket leaks. I had one and it felt like a misfire.

Hey guys. Well to answer Doc I changed the oil after the cam break in and the filter and as far as the pressure there is only a light so I cant really tell. Everything on this engine is new as I was trying to avoid these issues. With only 5 miles would there be a burnt valve already I believe theres less than one hour run time. I pulled the starter off and sure enough in my desire to better everything I put about 1/4 inch too long of a bolt on the converter. Hopefully tomorrow I can find some correct bolts for it.

Sounds like good news.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yeah and to think I almost sold the car....cheap

Special bolts are needed for attaching flex plate to converter. Look here for an example.

Special as in odd thread count, length, strength, and head thickness. Some come hex, and others 12 point. I got mine used from my torque converter supplier so that knew they were correct.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Hey, I'm just over in Milton Freewater.... If you get stuck and can't figure it out, gimme a PM, I can make the run over to you. I've got 35 years plus working on cars, some as amateur and some as professional, and I'd be happy to help you out.

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'81 W150 on Propane... Oversize valves, Oregon Camshaft cam, 10:5 static CR, Distributorless ignition, megajolt timing controller, PowerTrax lockers.

I have a "can full" of used TC bolts... if needed.
Also, you really should get a mechanical oil pressure gauge... to confirm pressures on a new engine.
I have a oil pressure test gauge I use when starting new engines, I confirm that the oil pressure is correct, remove the test gauge & then go with the "idiot light" from there.
DD

Thanks 65crew I may call you on the help. Me and the wife are going away next week without the kids so the car will be put off until we get back. I went to the local trans shop and ordered new bolts only 6$ so worth the investment. I'll put those on and give it a try then Im done for a while. I hear the looseness when I turn the belt to get to the bolts now so Im sure thats the biggest issue now. I'll post again tom. after the exchange. Doc I will get a pressure gauge when I tackle this again and see whats up. I would post pics here but not sure how.

well the bolts definately took care of the tinny noise and snugged everything up. So I gave it a test start after tightening the throttle cable and adjusting the dist a micro. The monster fired right up and after one quick step on the throttle,nothing lengthly just a rap it shut down. I was correct about the knock as there is now a large chunck of block ready to come off if not for the bracket from trans to block under the starter holding it kind of in place. Well now I know what the problem was and its getting covered until vacations over. Dont want to go and be bummed for a week over this. Maybe Ill be looking for a short block when I get back. I do apreciate all the help and advice from everyone. Talk again in 10 days.