Cody,

Sounds like your engine isn't too old unless you put a 1 or a 2 in front of that odometer number.

On the peanut plug head try some NGK UR4's. They are pretty hot and should run clean. If they turn black then your valve seals must be pretty bad and or the holes in the piston behind the oil ring are badly plugged.

Do a search on SL6 Dan's engine flush recipe. In years past I have used additives like a quart of Marvel Mystery oil or a quart of transmission fluid or a quart of synthetic oil at each oil change to start the ring cleaning precess. The current barn find engine I am running now I didn't go to crazy on flushing. I just added a quart of synthetic oil on the first fire up. My compression was pretty low (well below 100) on a few cylinders and are all above 125 now. The compression came back after the first 5,000 miles. So you can clean them up slowly over time or do the big bang with a couple of flushes with Sl6 Dan's mix.

Now that it has over 10,000 miles on it and the compression is up, it's running pretty good and I have switched to NGK UR6 plugs. They are running very clean.

Got a picture of your engine? Is the PCV system properly connected and valve cover breather?

For reference take a look at mine by clicking on the red link below my name. Mine used to puff quite a bit but that has stopped.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

thanks ted. Here are some pics.





I put a quick coat of paint on it a few weeks ago. Just to keep it looking better and more presentable. I will properly paint it when i have time and money.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Good shots.....looks like everything is going to the right places. The PCV hose is a little too long though.

So, if you pull off the gold anodized breather cap at an idle, air puffs out?
Does your air filter have a black spot on it where the breather tube connects?
If you put your hand over the breather hole to seal it off, does the PCV develop a fair amount of suction after a few seconds?

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Even with the breather on it smokes. I'll shorten the Pcv hose. When the air cleaner was white, on the inside where the breather hose comes out, there was a brown spot and oil residue. I'll check for suction.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

The above sentence confuses me.

PCV valve should be piped to manifold vacuum so it sees a constant suction. Air inlet to supply fresh filtered air to valve cover should come from air cleaner on the carburetor side of the filter, or a small gauze stand alone filter inserted into valve cover.

Look here.

Clean hose from PCV valve to manifold if needed. Often worn engines will emit such a rich stream of blow-by, that hose can become quite restricted.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

What I ment was that with breather on or off smoke still comes out of the breather hole. Before I repainetd my air cleaner black again like in the pictures, it was white. When it was white, on the inside of the air cleaner where the breather tube is, right in front of there from the breather tube to the bottom of the air cleaner on the inside of the air cleaner there was brown residue, looked Like oil. That is what I ment. And I will check for suction at the pcv when I take the breather off and shorten the pcv vavlve hose.

Sorry, I rush sometimes to respond so I don't always make sense. Hope that cleared it up for you.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

ok did a few things today. Pulled breather off and covered the hole with my hand, there was no suction from the pcv valve it was doing the opposite and blowing out air. Shortened pcv valve hose that goes to carb. Seemed to be running a little better today but it's been sitting (with about 3/4 tank of gas) for about a week now.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Ok I have another question and hopefully you guys can tell me if this is true. Since my truck is manual I downshift to use the engine to slow down my truck by matching the rpm, etc so I can save my brakes. On hills with speed limits of 35mph and lower I will keep it in 3rd with no throttle and it will maintain speed with little or no braking. There is a loud popping noise from the exhaust when I down shift. I was told this is normal on carbed engines. I was told be a certified technician that the reason the intake manifold gasket blew was because I down shift a lot and I can't remember what his explanation was. I was thinking it's pulling a lot of vacuum with the throttle closed so it pulled it from its weakest point (intake gasket) is that assumption correct? That and the fact that it's an old. My stepdad was calling bs on the explanation I gave him on why my truck runs like crap.

Thanks
Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.

Cody,

The carb will still allow a little fuel to enter the engine when decelerating as you describe. There is no shut off like an injector. The richer the carb is jetted the worse it gets. Unburnt fuel is drawn in but not used, so it fills the muffler with unburnt fumes. When you step on it again, pow...!

If you want to dial in the carb better, you need to install an O2 sensor and gauge.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

A stock engine should not be popping & farting much when letting off gas, or down shifting. If you had a big cam, yes popping and farting.

If the muffler is loading up, and you are getting a big backfire, check for late timing, dribbling carburetor, and high float levels.

Down shifting will not blow out intake gaskets. Shutting of the engine while still in gear moving down a grade & pumping the gas, than turning the ignition back on will produce a nice big back fire, may even split open the muffler along its seam! I use to do this stuff all the time with my first 273 V8 Dart forty years ago, down shift, load up the muffler for strategically placed back fires, rev the crap out of it, peal-outs… Never broke anything.

Dan may chime in here with greater insight, but don’t later, say 1969 or so on, carbureted engines have some sort of device to prevent throttle plates from slamming shut? I recall when my Dad purchased a new ‘69 Fairlane, when blipping the throttle, the engine was slow to shed rpm to return to curb idle. My ’82 LeBaron acts the same way.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Well I think my cam is stock. And I have a straight exhaust , no muffler or cat. I do know that my manifold flange is warped and I was told that cold air being sucked in there mixes with unburnt fuel and makes the popping noise? I can see this being true as it would run rich down shifting with no throttle so less air. I have a 1920 carb and it doesn't take to long to go back to idle. You let off and the throttle snaps shut. When I get my trick running again to where I can drive it. I'll make a video if it still pops so you can hear what I'm talking about. And Ted I have thought of an A/F gauge. Ill put it on my list of mods.

Cody

_________________
Old truck: 82 D150 225, 2bbl, dutra duals, 2.5" straight pipe to dual 2.5" tail pipes. Mud tires, 4spd, old forest service truck.
Current truck: 98.5 Ram 2500 ccsb, sport, 24v cummins, 5spd, 4.5" lift, 35's, 5" straight pipe.