No part number.....they are generic supplies from the Dorman section at your local auto parts or hardware store. Take your bolts with you for reference, but get studs and nylocks.

Don't forget the lock tight per SL6 Dan's instructions.

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

This is probably the worst advice I have gotten (at least in this thread). I asked about the correct thread and stud size because I know the previous owner had a bad habit of doing things the wrong way. I believe the correct answer should have been, 5/16" as that is pretty much the only carb stud size you can get (there are other studs but none specific to carbs, or at least not common enough to find with a quick search).

The bolts holding down my carb were 3/8"-16 or possibly -18, I don't remember anymore. But using that reference lead me to buying the shortest studs I could find that fit my bolt, which were way to long. If anybody has a similar issue just get a new manifold... or try some thread locker if you want an incorrect yet inexpensive fix...

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'66 Dodge Dart

Um…what? Get a new manifold? No. What happened was you took a pretty sharp wrong turn at a very early stage of thinking about this exceedingly simple product purchase and repair, and wound up massively, hugely over-thinking it and making it enormously more difficult than it actually is (and it sounds like it was unsuccessful, into the bargain). Seriously: you have made Mount Everest out of an anthill. That's okeh, you're new to car repair, everybody's got to learn by doing, but your conclusion that the job can't be done is wrong.

Try it again but think it through differently:

1. You presently have a bolt of the correct length and thread to hold the carburetor to the intake manifold. The only problem is it tends to loosen and back out.

2. You'd like to have a threaded stud instead of a bolt.

3. So the best thing to do is to take a look at that bolt, estimate the diameter of its shank to the nearest 1/8 inch, find and go to a well-stocked hardware store, give them the bolt and say "I want to replace two of these with threaded studs and nylon locking nuts. I'd like them slightly longer than the overall length of this bolt, please."

4. Then you mock it up: thread the short end of the studs into the intake manifold, put on whatever carb heat insulator/gasket you're using (a new one), place the carburetor on the studs, and verify you have enough thread above the carburetor to "fill up" the nylon locking nuts. If not -- longer studs!

5. Remove studs, apply Loctite in accord with label directions to the short ends and put them back into the manifold, then reassemble gasket stack and carburetor.

If you have "too much" thread above the carburetor so you can't get the nut on, no problem, just lift the carb slightly, install the nuts, and turn them down.

How to put threaded studs in or take them out? Two regular (non-locking) nuts turned onto the long end of the stud, then jammed together by turning them oppositely together with two wrenches. Now you turn the uppermost nut to tighten the stud, or the lowermost nut to loosen the stud. Once it's in (or out) use your two wrenches to unjam and remove the two nuts.

Truly: not counting time to and from the hardware store, this whole thing is about a 7-minute job. Go hit www.smallparts.com and find double-ended threaded studs; page through and look at what's out there. The ones you buy locally will very likely be made by Dorman whose website is severely lacking but also gives an idea of what's out there.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan, but I've already tried anything local. Not sure where you find these "well-stocked" hardware stores but there never seems to be any around me. I was only able to find 1 stud that fit my manifold holes (currently 3/8"-16), but those were so long that the BBS won't even sit flat.

I 100% agree, this should have been a 7-minute fix, however it hasn't been.

Back to trying to keep things simple, what are your thoughts on just putting some loctite on the bolts?

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'66 Dodge Dart

Do you not have a Napa,lowes or home depot in your town? Any of these places will have what you need,or easily be able to order them. Very common stuff.

Or an Ace, True Value Hardware, McLendon's, Do-It Center, Tacoma Screw, etc......

Last time I was in Marysville Auto parts they had a Dorman selection.

If you loctite those bolts in place good luck getting them out........

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

No, you didn't. Sorry, but if you cannot find a bolts-and-screws-and-fasteners place locally (for whatever definition of "local" applies where you live) or a way to order them online if you live so far out in the sticks that it would take you a week and a half to drive to the nearest such a one, then you have not tried.

UPDATE: I promised myself I would not spoon-feed it to you. Looks like I am breaking my promise. Tacoma Screw is less than 15 miles down the highway from you.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

McMaster Carr has almost everything under the sun as it pertains to bolts, studs washers and nuts. If something generic/hardware store will fit, you can buy it online from them at the very least.

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65 4 dr. Valiant 200

After trying Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, as well as, NAPA, Carquest, and O'reilly's, the best anybody could do was a 3/8" threaded rod, or the somewhat correct stud, but over an inch too long. However, after asking around for a few days I finally found a place called Fastenal, very well stocked in just about any kind of nut, bolt, or washer. But even they only had a single 3/8" stud that may work. It is 3/8"-16x1/2" and 3/8"-24x3/4" with a shank of unknown length (but from the picture in the catalog it apreas to be 1/8"-1/4" long). I ordered them and they'll be in Monday, hopefully it will go smoothly...

Since I'll be doing the studs, I was thinking maybe also get a new carb gasket. The current one is only a few months old and its thicker than the original but not sure if there is a better insulated gasket. Right now I'm using the one from the Walker BBS rebuild kit.

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'66 Dodge Dart

Okeh, that's it. Tell me why you shouldn't go on my "do not help" list. I put the freakin' answer right in front of your face -- I linked you directly to the right page of the place just down the road from you that has the items you need…and you wanna keep babbling about Lowe's and Home Depot. So you got some 'splaining to do, because from where I sit it looks as if you're deliberately trying to make this as difficult as possible for yourself and those of us (foolishly?) trying to help you.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If the studs were too long, why couldn't you have just cut them down to the correct size? (I'm assuming that they were too long in the manifold, or too long another part of the carb stopped them sitting correctly).

Josh,

I am with SL6 Dan on this one.......way out here in Black Diamond not near any cities, our Black Diamond Auto Parts has the studs in various sizes and in 1/2" length increments from the Dorman selection. The other day they were closed, it was after 7:00 PM so I ran up to the Do-It Center 4 miles away and they had even a better selection.

I had the new studs and two thick gaskets, sealer and the aluminum heat deflector installed in about 7 minutes with the engine running making minor adjustments to the choke rod.

The reason I swapped the studs out is that the heat deflector mod requires about an inch longer stud since you use two of the thick base gaskets. I hadn't installed it on this old SL6 barn find yet. What a difference it makes on hot starts after heat soaking. Starts are imediate! No more cranking......

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Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

Dan, so sorry to agitate you the way I did. The first time around I didn't even click your Tacoma Screw link 'cause a buddy that was reading over my shoulder (who is much more familiar with the area than I am) said, "that is over an hour away!" Sadly, I took his word for it... and paid. That being said, I hope I don't end up on your list as I do value your knowledge.

Ted, that is shocking. There was minimal selection at all the chain parts stores I visited.

Should be smooth sailing from here, just 1 question remains... Carb gasket, reusable until worn out or replace every time the carb is removed (even just temporarily)?

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'66 Dodge Dart

Replace every time-once its been tighten its done for.

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50 chrysler,54 Plymouth, 64 Valiant conv 4 speed, 66 Valiant V8 wagon, 70 Challenger R/T 440+6 conv 4 speed,80 Colt, 98 Neon ACR,84 Honda V45 Magna
Taking care of 57 300C conv,48 T&C conv. Missing my 67 GTX and 36 Ply coupe

Bet next time you'll click the link anyhow.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.