Scored a T-5 yesterday found it on craigslist after about 8months of searching. I came out of a 1990 Mustang GT. I know its not the world class but it should work for me. Got the tranny, bell housing, throw out bearing, Cobra spec presser plate, light weight forged flywheel,B&M short throw shifter and drive shaft. All for $100. I didnt think it was a bad deal.
My budy actully bought it for me cause I gave him a 360 from a truck I parted out a couple weeks ago. I have a ton of measuring and thinking ahead of me. My thought is to try and run as much of the mustang system as possible and to do this on the cheap spending money only on the important areas. Wish me luck. Thanks.

That is a screaming deal. A good T5 core is worth $200 or more. All T5's after about 1985 are called "World Class" (yours too), and it doesn't really mean anything except for early upgrades.

Happy building!

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks Lou I have been really inspired by your road course valiant. I have spent around 3 months going over all the info I can find about a T5 swap. I found an old post burried way back in the archives that shows links to ss.com of your build but all those pages are gone. I would like to know your Ideas on clutch, flywheel pressure plate combos? What has worked for you?

Thanks for the kind words.

How much power and max RPM are you after? Drag racing sometimes/ever, or just street and maybe road course? And, as always, what is your budget for the clutch/fly?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Right now I am looking at some low hp numbers just a stock rebuild minor head work and comp 264 cam. The future motor in a year or two 280-300hp Max RPM 6000-6500. Mainly street use possibly a road course. Drags every now and then but not a dedicated drag car. As far as the budget goes I would like to keep cost down as much as possible. I would like to try and use as much of the items I have or over the counter parts if at all posible. I have the mustang parts and stock 3 speed parts I also have the small block to slant addapter. I looked at the mustang Flywheel and the bolt patern and register hole is off but those can be fixed with alittle machining. If only I can find a bell housing to make the mustang flywheel work. Is there any slant sixes out there in the world with the starter on the passenger side, would the starter hit anything important like the torrsion bar? Lots of ideas in my head? But I am also starting to like Sam Powells T5 swap with the 3speed parts just worried about it holding enough power.

I used 3 speed stuff for my swap.

Its smaller and cheaper than anything else. With the addition of a Mcleod disc mine has been reliable to 180hp

Any T5 is as good as the small clutch.

The trick to run the small clutch is the right gears and careful launches.

Any run through the gears is predicated by a low rpm clutch engagement. I dump mine at an idle and floor it.........

In the end I actually saved a few pounds with my 3 to 5 speed swap.

Build it using the 3 speed stuff and upgrade when you do the moder.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Easiest clutch would be a Mopar 9.25" plate (new, not rebuilt if possible) on stock fly, and a 9" disc from a 60s Mustang with a toploader or 10 spline 1 1/6" input. More beef would be to call Specclutch and get one of their kits. McLeod used to make nice 9" PP's for the Mopar pattern, but maybe not anymore.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Thanks for all the replies guys. I am thinking I may go sandys route and go with the three speed setup. It should be the easiest and cheapest route for getting on the road. More than likely order the valuecraft clutch from autozone for $72. For the taurus SHO

Howevere I have been looking at the ford 2.3L mustang SVO clutches as a possible option. Ram Clutches has there powergrip setup PP and clutch Its 1 1/16x 10 spline 9 1/4 clutch. Has anyone tried them or investigated this route. Just as expensive as the Spec clutches so may aswell talk to Spec I guess?

The cheaper route for me would be the off the self unit and get the car put together. I already have a New PP and resurfaced fly. I need to pull the input shaft bearing sleve and take it to work and get it turned down to fit my new stock throw out bearing. Hopfully I can get this car on the road by christmas time, seeing as its been apart since 2003. After the transmission is mated to the engine it will be time to shorten that 8.8 out back. Thanks again every one.

Has any one thought about or attempted to cut the Mustangs Bellhousing matting surface flange off of the bell housing and Tig weld it to the Mopar 3 speed bell housing?

Lou I was reading the old threads about the T5 group buy bellhousings and saw something about being milled at a 15* angle? What is up with that and was there any other special things they did to the Bell housings?

You would need a good jig to hold everything in place while welding, and a good aluminum welder.

The run of BH's I did had 5 deg (IIRC) tilt of the trans toward the driver side. Think of the shifter tilting over 5 deg toward the driver as you look down the input or output shaft axis. This is the Mustang arrangement. I believe the Camaros had 15 deg tilt built into the BH.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

At this RPM and HP I would never use a stock Pressure plate. After one has exploded on you, you won't ask why.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Rick I am right there with you. As of right now I am putting a mild motor together maybe 180hp max. In a year or two when I do get the Big motor together with the 280-300hp I will most definantelly upgrade to a better pressure plate and clutch disc, possibly even an sfi flywheel. I know its over kill but I am even going to weld in some 3/16 plate to the floor where the bell housing is. May just be enough to help slow the carnage down if it ever blows.

I ordered the Taurus Sho clutch disc today and also picked up new seals front and rear of the T5. Making alittle progress a little at a time.

The taurus SHO clutch disc does not fit wrong spline, I could swear the other day when I was going thru the parts catalogs I read 10 spline but I was wrong. I will have to take it back tomorrow and order a disc from a 60s mustang like Lou said. The good thing is I should save almost $40 between the diffrence in price. How ever I did get the Throw out bearing from a 66 mustang and it fits on the 3 speed release fork with no modifications.

There are many different classic Mustang V8 9" clutch discs available. I have a nice street/track one from McLeod that I got from some Mustang specific e-shop.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Well after returning the sho disc to autozone, I ordered a Clutch Disc for a 68 ford mustang with 6cyl 9inch clutch. Three days later I went to pick it up to find out the parts guy didnt get the order submitted and tried to order it today and it is no longer in stock. We called valuecraft and they said It could be upto three months before they do another run. Every one else wants to just sale me a complete clutch kit. Lou do you have any part numbers of links to the clutch you told me about. I am still trying to keep it pretty cheap. I found a ford mustang 4cyl 8.5inch clutch at the autoparts store and measured it out to find it to be .875 shorter than the PP with .437 on each side. It could work but that seems to be a big amount of surface area to give up. Would the 8.5 clutch survive behind a 180hp slant?