Due to an unfortunate lack of tightening of a slider caliper bracket bolt, I am now in need of a right-hand upper control arm. Generally, I've found that most of the UCAs for sale are pairs (left and right) so I might have to buy a pair to get a RH. However, I came across one eBay vendor (WSD4less) that sells new loaded (with new bushings and ball joints) UCAs. They have both individual UCAs (left or right) and pairs (left and right) for sale. The UCAs are made in Mexico and are fully assembled so I can't buy a bare UCA. However, $75.23 seems like a pretty good price for a brand new, loaded UCA.

I also see that I can get tubular UCAs from CAP Auto Products, FirmFeel, MagnumForce, and Reilly MotorSports. I had my front-end aligned with positive caster (+1.25°L & +1.75°R) and negative camber (-0.25° L&R) but didn't notice that my manual steering was noticeably harder. I don't think there was a lot of adjustment left in the eccentric cams. I don't drive my car very hard so I don't think I need a lot more positive caster and negative camber.

Some questions:

• Has anyone had any experience with WSD4less' control arms? Is their new UCA as good as a used UCA?
• Is it worthwhile to upgrade to tubular UCAs at this time?
• If so, any recommendations?
• Where is the best place to get a upper ball joint socket?

I have no basis for advising for or against the new Mexican control arms. Think carefully before selecting a tubular arm design; if you pick one that has very firm (or no) bushings, you may come to regret it (noise, harshness). Think carefully also before you choose a vendor. CAP has a reputation of making suspension components that break and come apart with no warning. Reilly has a reputation of standing firm and foursquare behind his product beyond any normal limitation of customer service -- and I say that as someone who's not tickled that my Reilly heim-joint strut rods clatter and pop, but completely astounded at the lengths Mr. Reilly is willing to go to in order to make me satisfied.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I installed the Just Suspensions rebuilt kit while I had everything apart and I believe all of the bushings were the firm urethane ones. The ride was probably a bit firmer than it was originally but, after a few years of not driving it, my recollection of the softness of the old parts is a bit hazy. Regardless of my memory, I didn't find the urethane bushings to be noisy or uncomfortable.

Going back to the tubular upper control arms, one issue that I discovered while cruising FABO last night was the need to modify the UCA brackets on the frame. The tubular UCAs are (all?) wider than OEM and have interference there that requires some trimming.

For extra positive caster, one FABO member (autoxcuda) often suggests using Moog 7103 offset bushings rather than going with tubular UCAs.

As for tubular arm vendors, I've found that there were a lot of complaints about CAP that went unresolved. Reilly MS seemed to have the best reports but I didn't find anything negative about FirmFeel or MagnumForce.

i was also going to buy the tubular UCA's. unless you're doing other upgrades to the suspension (adjustable strut rods, etc..) i wouldn't spend the money. troll the junkyards and you'll find something. Give WSD4less a call and see what kind of bushings they use and where they're getting their UCA's.

for the Moog 7103 offset bushings
see here: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43517

This is a good one on how to remove/install the bushings if you get a bare arm: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=39173

as for the upper ball joint socket, if you're okay spending the money you can purchase one new at an auto parts store. Or you can put an ad in the want section here and one of the members might be willing to let you borrow theirs.

i've heard of people putting the ball joint in a vice and turning the arm with a pipe to get it in, but i don't know how i feel about that.

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70 Plymouth Valiant 4dr

I bought a used pair of UCAs on FABO just now so I should be back on the road soon. Another guy on FABO had a new ball joint socket for sale so I decided to buy it while I'm at it.

As for WSD4less, I'd still like to know if anyone has any experience with them. Rather than waiting for a used one or pair to come up for sale, going the new route might be worthwhile if you're in a hurry.

Regarding junkyards, one yard I often visit tracked one down for me but wanted $150 for it. The new one was starting to look pretty good at that point.

I'm finally getting around to installing the right UCA in my car and noticed that the rear UCA bushing in each arm has a ring on it. The ring slips over the bushing after it's installed and is about 1" long. I had a heck of a time removing these bushings because of the added friction of the ring.

I've never seen these rings before. Is there a good reason for me to install on them on my new bushings? If so, what's the best way to get them back on?

BTW, someone on FABO reported buying the eBay UCAs. He found that the ball joints are pressed in and nearly caused him to wreck his car when they slipped out. See New Upper Control Arms.

Beware Ebay and new design parts...

Those rings are some sort of "problem solver" for, I believe, bushings that did not press in with enough interference fit, to add security holding them in. I've seen a few over the years, but never installed/reinstalled them. Not sure if they're factory or aftermarket.

Lou

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