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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 2:09 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 2:10 pm
Posts: 107
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cough cough what was that slantzilla
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BUY VAPORIZER
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Roor Bongs


Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 4:31 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1046
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
If you are going to put coil-anything on a street Mopar, you might as well replace the slant with a 4-banger Ford. You have one of the best, most versatile and simplest suspensions ever designed.

When you get it done, why don't you give Lou a call and run a road race against his torsion bar car.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 5:46 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 2:10 pm
Posts: 107
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64 convert a properly designed system with rack and pinion will save weight and improve handling. I am currently making my car handle better 1 piece at a time staying with the torsion bar setup. But as it appears by the time I am done I will have spent more money for less handling improvement over buying a coil over setup like the alterkation.

Nothing like crappy ratio over assisted power steering boxes and steering parts that flew or move around under hard cornering.

The torsion bar design was ahead of its time and works very well but there is always room for improvement using todays technology.
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TOYOTA CORONA T190
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Digital vaporizers


Last edited by 74.swinger on Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Ruster, no offense intended, but if you've got to ask a question like the one about leaving the torsion bars in, you will need to learn a lot before you start modifying your suspension. I would highly recommend you get a few books on chassis tuning - Fred Puhn's <i>How to Make Your Car Handle</i> is a good starting point, but you'll also need a good understanding of the stresses and material behavior involved if you're making any major modifications (in other words, anything more involved than throwing bolt-on parts at it) to the suspension. After looking at your posts, I'm afraid I will have to refuse to answer your latest question, and strongly recommend you have someone more experienced with Mopar suspensions fix this.

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:29 am
Posts: 1046
Location: Texas
Car Model: 1964 Valiant convertible 225 automatic
Performance Handling for Classic Mopars, by Tom Condran is another bible for making an old Mopar handle.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2003 12:34 am 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1830
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model: '23 T-bucket
Ummmm, Ruster? Are you being a bit sarcastic in your last post?

If you are, OK. If you aren't, I strongly suggest you seek an understanding concerning the front suspension system on Mopar cars from about '61-'76. The torsion bars ARE your springs, there's no need for any coil or leaf springs in the front.

Roger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 10:28 pm 
hell, all you had to do was say i needed to check out the book ,damn! im stayin on the .com site from now on! i never knew of any books like that and i always look in bookstores for improvement books i can use. a mopar engine performance book with only 2 pages on the slant doesnt help either..

actually i forgot about there bein no coils. im usta other cars havin em.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 10:33 pm 
oh, thanks for all the help !


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 Post subject: My apologies...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2003 7:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 8:20 pm
Posts: 1603
Location: Oxford, Georgia
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Sorry, I really came across as a jerk with my last reply. I was trying to warn you that you really seemed overconfident and needed to learn a lot more before trying, but mostly, it seems that I was just plain rude.

The reason I didn't want to answer the question about removing the torsion bars was that it's hard to come up with an answer that isn't either a few dozen pages, or one that falls into the category of "just enough information to be dangerous." The short version is that a correct coil-over design would entail redesigning the control arm mounting point so that it isn't necessary to use the torsion bar to hold the control arm in place, but explaining how to do that safely would be a very long answer indeed. And there would be a half dozen other, equally complex questions which would need answering. I just can't fit onto this message board an answer that gives what I think is enough information.

_________________
"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair


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