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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 3:13 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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im looking for the distance between the edge of one bore to the other...

i know center to center is 3.98-4" but i need that little gap number...

also what is a good minimum cyl wall thickness for a street driven high comp motor?

.2" ??

thx

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 4:58 pm 
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I measured fire ring to fire ring at 0.520

Richard

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:20 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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805moparkid, you may also want to read Doc's excellent article on the SL6 blocks. You'll find it in the articles, link here.

Olaf.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:08 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Quote:
I measured fire ring to fire ring at 0.520

Richard
thanks richard!

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 11:09 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Quote:
805moparkid, you may also want to read Doc's excellent article on the SL6 blocks. You'll find it in the articles, link here.

Olaf.
im reading that now! thanks

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:23 am 
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You have to remember that there is an air gap between the cylinders, and due to casting variances the cylinders are not always concentric.

A general rule is that +.100" is the max safe overbore on a Slant block. Dart 270 has one in his Slantkota that is +.190" but I am sure it was sonic checked when it was built.

Sonic checking is the only sure way to know what you have.

The bigger you go with the bore the harder it is to find head gaskets too.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 10:09 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Quote:
You have to remember that there is an air gap between the cylinders, and due to casting variances the cylinders are not always concentric.

A general rule is that +.100" is the max safe overbore on a Slant block. Dart 270 has one in his Slantkota that is +.190" but I am sure it was sonic checked when it was built.

Sonic checking is the only sure way to know what you have.

The bigger you go with the bore the harder it is to find head gaskets too.
thinking of wet sleeve and custom head gasket

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1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 12:45 pm 
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One time far away and long ago in a garage in Virginia I espoused taking an aluminum block hogging it out till it was just a case and fitting wet liners. Mebbe I would even up the bore spacing while at it.
The wet liner would be machined flat on 2 sides to "siamese" it with the next liner. Think big bore.
A custom top deck would hold it all in place. The custom top deck would, of course, adapt the Supra head to the slant case.

After that its straight to the twin aluminum slant 6 -60 degree V12 with Supra heads and a crank driven 12-71blower in the valley between the blocks. I heard Ford 390 rods will work.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:14 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Quote:
One time far away and long ago in a garage in Virginia I espoused taking an aluminum block hogging it out till it was just a case and fitting wet liners. Mebbe I would even up the bore spacing while at it.
The wet liner would be machined flat on 2 sides to "siamese" it with the next liner. Think big bore.

A custom top deck would hold it all in place. The custom top deck would, of course, adapt the Supra head to the slant case.

After that its straight to the twin aluminum slant 6 -60 degree V12 with Supra heads and a crank driven 12-71blower in the valley between the blocks. I heard Ford 390 rods will work.
see thats where i was going... im just looking @ the space between and thinking i wont be able to get anything in there bigger than say a 3.7 piston?

_________________
1965 Plymouth A/FX 512ci (under construction)
1968 Dodge Dart SL6 14.25 @ 91.5 1.91 60'
1973 Dodge Dart SL6 Stock
Killer Bee's Member Since 09'
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=128702
http://www.youtube.com/user/805moparkid


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:31 pm 
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Someone on here espoused as to how they were going to bore the cylinders clear out and put in wet sleeves. He got as far as starting to bore the motor out, and we haven't heard from him since.

The big question is: How you gonna seal the wet sleeves at the bottom when you are cutting all the strength out of the block? I always figured you'd open yourself up to crank issues taking that much meat out of the block too. That thing is going to flex like a drunk stripper chasing $100 bills. :shock:

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 2:42 pm 
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After your done installing the siamesed sleeves, block fill it to the top, run alcohol, and pump coolant through the head only. It won't overheat in the quarter mile. :D

CJ

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:37 pm 
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Wet liners, alcohol , drunk strippers and $100 bills.........

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 4:50 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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You mean siamesed drunk strippers?

Olaf.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:03 pm 
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This has the potential of becoming a social corner post. :lol:

CJ

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:36 pm 
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Quote:
Wet liners, alcohol , drunk strippers and $100 bills.........
I'll take wet, drunk strippers for $100 Alex. :lol: :lol: :lol:

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