Is this rearend earlier than a 73'? Bolt pattern is 2-3/8 versus the front which is 2-3/4.

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

How do I tell which one it is?

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

Looks like the standard 7 1/4" rear that was common for all A-bodies of the time...if you are referring to "bolt pattern" that refers to the lug nut or lug stud pattern and id the number of studs and the diameter of the circle formed by the studs... if you have front disc brakes the pattern would be 5 on 4 1/2"...if it's drums it's 5 on 4"...if someone swapped either axle or brakes on the car you may have one pattern forward or aft depending on whether they wanted better brakes and didn't find a matching axle...or vice-versa.

-D.Idiot

I got front discs. Rear stud circumference appears to be 4". My rear rims won't fit on the front.

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

DI and I just set Doug Powers up with a couple of large bolt 7-1/4" rears. That would have at least matched your front bolt pattern. You might check with him to see if he could part with one. (He's getting his road car back on appropriate gears.) Feather I believe.
You'll find him at the Woodburn track Sept 10th. I don't think he gets on the internet here.
Another option would be to look for an 8-1/4" at Wildcat, or another older iron yard. 8-3/4" A-body rears command a premium these days, and most slants don't require that kind of strength.
A Ford 8" out of an early 70's Maverick will pretty much drop in. You will need to have the rear yoke from the Ford put on the driveshaft to avoid headaches. Should be able to get that done for $120 or so. That way you use over the counter U-Joints.
The 8" Ford rear has the advantage of available gears, and if you want, you can track swap the rear pretty quickly. Third member type, so pop the axles, and remove the chunk from the front, then load your track gear set. (Similar to the 8-3/4" Chrysler and Ford 9", just lighter.) A Ford 8" will hold the nastiest of slants easily.

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

My slant is only a street car (no racing.) The 8" rear should work fine then. Also the 7-1/4" is refering to the axle width and not the 9" drum width right? My buddy has a Ford rearend lying around I believe it's an 8" rear but it's from an early 90's Explorer. Would this be similar?

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

" Also the 7-1/4" is refering to the axle width and not the 9" drum width right? " that is size of ring gear also chrysler used two size differeances same rear 8 1/4 (cars) and 8 3/8 (trucks) same rear

7 ¼â€￾, 8 ¾â€￾, 8 ¼â€￾, and 8â€￾ refer to size of ring gear. Brake drum and wheel stud spacing is independent of axel details. When mixing and matching rear ends from other manufactures and models, their over-all length has to be considered, as well as wheel bolt pattern. Often bolt pattern can be can be changed by re-drilling at a machine shop. Also spring attachment points and angles can be changed, so this detail is not as critical.

You have to find an axel that is close in length to the existing one the car has. This is why a Ford Maverick or its twin Mercury Comet, and perhaps a early Mustang will fit. They are all rather narrow compact cars. I think you will find a 90’s Explorer to be too wide.

Don’t trust me on this, trust a tape measure. As for how much wider or narrower a substitute axel can be with out any modification of its length to be able to fit into your car, I can’t say, but someone here will know.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

So I need to find a rear end and measure it. Not really sure where to begin. Probably start checking the local junk yards?

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'73 Scamp (the girlfriend): 225ci super/6 2BBL conversion (Almost done!)
'90 Subaru, wagon (the wife): H4-cyl 2.2L

1977 Mercedes-Benz 300D, 5cyl diesel(For sale!)

Why do you wanna swap your rearend is it broke? If your going to swap your rearend and you don't plan to race the car I would just find another 7 1/4 thats in good shape with the bolt pattern you want and stick that in so you won't have any fitting problems as long as the rearend width is the same as your stock one.

Kev

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