Reed: I don't see evidence of this carb leaking—what are you seeing? And why are you recommending a 1920, particularly?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I admittedly havent checked base timing yet.
Dont have access to a timing light today, have just timed it by ear for the time being.

The air cleaner does have a nipple on it's underside. (unused currently)


The vaccuum Advance pod seems to hold vaccuum, and the vaccuum advance line has a fair amount of vaccuum at idle.

When I block the line with my finger momentarily the idle drops.

Reed,
I have entertained the idea of getting a different carb. A Holley 1920 you say? are these still made new? guess I'll do some poking around there also.

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Franklyn
1965 Dart GT - 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Okeh, then as a first step, get a length of the correct size of vacuum hose and attach it between that nipple and the carburetor port that is presently plugged off. Then reset your idle speed (you'll have to decrease it with the adjustor screw) and mixture, and then you should no longer have vacuum oat the vacuum advance port at idle. Then hook up the vacuum advance and see if the engine behaves as it should.

Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

Neither 1920s nor BBSs (nor any other slant-6 carbs) are still made new, and haven't been for many years. I'm not sure why Reed is pushing a 1920; the BBS is the better design, though at this late date carburetor condition is more important than carburetor model in determining how well the engine runs. I have some NOS (New Old Stock) carburetors left on the shelf if you decide to install a different one, but I don't yet see any evidence that you need one.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I recommend a new carb because I see crud all over the exterior of the carb, which suggests gas is leaking out of the gaskets and allowing dirt and crud to accumulate on the body of the carb, he says he is having drive-ability issues, and the carb is designed for the somewhat rare (at least in my experience here in the States) anti-icing system. I recommend a new carb because at this point it appears that the carb he has is designed for use with the anti-icing system you referenced, but I don't know how much of that system is still present and if he is willing to (a) repair the leaking gaskets on the carb, and (b) do the necessary work to get the carb anti-icing system functional, which, according to you, is necessary for the carb to function properly. I will freely admit I know nothing about the anti-icing system other than what I have read in this thread.

It seems to me that the best choice would be to find a NOS carb without any hard-to-find subsystems like the anti-icing system. In my mind, the more prolific single barrel slant six carb is the Holley 1920. It was used across the largest number of years and across the most number of emissions and other vehicle equipment configurations.

I recommend the Holley 1920 based on two facts: (1) my past positive experience with the 1920 model of single barrel carburetors, and (2) the fact that it has always been easier for me to find a Holley 1920, rather than a BBS or a 1945. Now, I have to qualify that statement and say that I haven't actively looked for a single barrel slant six carb for years, and the market has probably changed. I do know that slant sixes are getting scarce in junkyards, and quality used carbs are getting scarcer. I do not know how hard it would be to source a NOS single barrel carb, or how expensive it would be.

So, with the qualifier that all of my recommendations and diagnostic theories are based mainly on my personal experience, give it the weight you think it deserves. I know Dan has a much deeper knowledge of slant six carbs, especially the 60s era carbs, as well as of diagnosing slant six problems in general. I have no desire to spread incorrect information or offer incorrect suggestions of how to fix your problems, so I will bow out of this discussion and leave it to Dan to guide you to the right solution.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Thanks both of you guys.
The advice AND opinions are much appreciated.
I'm doing my best to act as a "sponge" and learn as much as I can from guys like you.

Dan, I will attach some vaccuum hose to the air cleaner nipple/currently plugged carb port, and report back my findings. thnx

I look forward to taking a look at those instructional videos that you posted, but not sure which ones to look at. I see info on the carters and the holleys, yet my carb is a canadian remanufactured Autoline Carb.
Though I'm sure a full read of all the instruction videos will have me more educated once I'm done, but is the Autoline Carb closer is design to either one of those two makes?

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Franklyn
1965 Dart GT - 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe

That's an excellent preliminary indicator that the carb's good, actually; if it's got a nice layer of crud all over it, it means people have been keeping their hands off it…and it's a scientific fact that 374% of all carburetor problems are caused by people touching the carburetor! Seriously, when there used to be slant-6 cars in wrecking yards years ago, I always went for the carbs that looked like this one: covered with grease and grime, giving evidence of having not been touched. They always made the best rebuildables.
Not necessarily. Stuff under the hood gets grimy. If there were enough leakage to be alarming, the carb would be pretty clean (washed down by gasoline leaks) but there'd be heavy pooled "tar" crud on the manifold under the carb. Anyhow…that's what rebuild kits are for!
About 10 inches of vacuum hose is all that's needed to restore the airflow this carb is "looking" for. It won't be heated air, but that's for the best in these days of alcohol-adulterated gasoline; the anti-ice system, if it is intact, tends to cause the carb to boil like a teakettle once the engine's warm on today's fuel.
He may wind up a good candidate for a NOS carb, but I don't think it's time yet to condemn this one he has.
Mmm…nope; not counting export applications we don't find in North America, the 1920 was used for 11 model years (1962-1973), the BBS for 14 (1960-1974), and the 1945 was used for 13 model years (1974-1987).
Well, he'd just have to send me a PM and take his choice of a 1920 or a BBS (and I might even still have a 1945 or two, too!)


I don't think you're giving wrong info, Reed, and I don't see why you should drop outta the conversation; I just don't yet see evidence that this carb is hopeless. Autoline used to put effort and quality into their rebuilt carbs, and I think this one can probably be put into good working order without too much trouble or expense just yet.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yours is a Carter BBS rebuilt by Autoline.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

great thanks!
starting some reading now:)

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Franklyn
1965 Dart GT - 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Hey guys,
Been doing some reading and have educated myself a bit more on carburetor components etc. thnx

ALSO: ran a short hose from the supposed "anti-ice" port on the carb to the nipple on the underside of my air cleaner. *see pic*



The idle got quite a bit higher as dan suggested, and dropping idle back to where it sounded good, effectivly eliminated any vacuum on the vacuum advance line at idle.
I reconnected the vacuum advance line to the distributor and took a road test.

Still has a bad off-idle miss happening but drives okay at any high rpm and under load. It may be a little bit better, but that just may be my mind tricking me while hoping and quick easy fix was obtainable.

Upon removing the vaccuum advance line the car runs smoother, back to as it was before the discovery of the unconnected vaccuum hose (as mentioned to start this thread)

raises a couple questions: shall I leave the "anti-ice" hose attached to the air cleaner, though no noticeable benefits?

Any thoughts on what this off idle miss could be? bad vaccuum advance unit?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
(On an unrelated note mentioned in a post above, I do intend to swap out the fuel filter for a metal one, the thin, clear plastic one so close to heat is creepy)

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Franklyn
1965 Dart GT - 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Have you checked to see if your accelerator pump is working? With the choke open and the engine off, peer down into the carb as you operate the throttle lever. You should see a solid shot/squirt of fuel each time you open the throttle. If it's weak/dribbly (or nonexistent) the accelerator pump isn't working and the carb needs to be gone through with a quality kit. If such a rebuild doesn't clear up the misbehavior, or if you find broken/missing/damaged parts inside the carb, then it's time to start thinking about a new (not "remanufactured") replacement carb.
You really need to beg, borrow, or buy a timing light. Before you get hold of one, you can check the accuracy of the timing mark. The timing mark is located on the outer ring of the crank pulley, which is separated from the inner hub of the pulley by rubber. The belt groove is in the outer ring, too. Over time, the rubber-metal bond can let go and the outer ring can slip with respect to the inner hub. That makes the timing mark inaccurate. Specifically, it makes the mark show less advance than actual (for example, if the mark shows 5°BTDC, the actual timing will be earlier than that…might be 10°BTDC, might be 20° BTDC, might be something else, depending on how much slippage has occurred.) To check for this, straighten out a piece of coat hanger wire and insert it into the frontmost spark plug hole. Rotate the engine by hand until the coat hanger wire stops moving upwards/outwards. Check the timing mark. If it's nowhere in sight, rotate the engine further until the coat hanger wire once again stops moving upward/outward and check the timing mark again. It should indicate 0° (TDC). If it does not, the damper has slipped and needs replaced. They're not difficult to buy new.
Yes, definitely leave it hooked up. The benefit is that the throttle plate is now in the correct relation to the spark advance and idle ports.
Sure, but I thought you said it holds vacuum and you can't suck air through it.
Do the Fuel line mod.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks Dan,
I'll check for any timing slip, and will inspect the accelerator pump.
Been very interested in the idea of tacklling my first carb rebuild.
Wonder how hard it would be to find a decent rebuildable carb in a local boneyard. You had any luck with any yards around Vancouver for slant six parts? I ask due to my slant being my daily driver currently, and being a first time rebuilder, dont think I'd be able to conquer the first rebuild in a timeframe that would allow for no driving.

Thansk again for the suggestions. I am commited to getting this slant running great, even if it takes a long time;)

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Franklyn
1965 Dart GT - 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Impossible, at this late date. They are all gone.
Ask me again when I've lived here longer than (checks clock) 71 hours.

Then it may after all be time to think about a new carb, and you could use the existing carb as a practice item to try your hand at rebuilding.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Haha, yes I guess a bit too soon.
Hope the first 71 hours have been swell;)
welcome to the rain.

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Franklyn
1965 Dart GT - 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe

Franklyn:

Suspecting Dan is of same mindset that rain is a wonderful thing, it runs right off of a snow shovel --- no lifting --- no rearranging one’s life around persistent inclement weather --- no getting up 3:00 am to remove white stuff from driveway to be able to start the day on time --- blah, blah, blah, etc..

I can say this because I too am tired of cold snowy long New England winters enjoyed by some living north of the 45th parallel, and their demand on one’s time and resources to overcome these five long months of the year.

Bill

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Right. Or as I said to people in Toronto who said "Vancouver?! But it rains there!", "Yes, now let me 'splain you something: For winter in Vancouver you need good windshield wipers and a raincoat and/or umbrella. For winter in Toronto you need special tires, sand, salt, shovels, rustproofing, twelve layers of clothing, a whole hell of a lot of whatever you burn to heat your home…shall I go on?".

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.