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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:15 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 15
Location: seattle wa
Car Model:
Starting a new thread with pictures

Thanks much slantsixdan for your spot on info for my research
just thought id share some visuals.
And slantsixdan, i couldnt get a straight picture of the alt bracket stamp, but the number on prior post is correct. 6225 r10 6l
vin number: VH23C6G124969

1976 plymouth valiant 2 door hardtop brougham
the odometer is not fuctional(no longer reading mileage) stuck 51,xxxx
Just bought a week ago, and love it. Dash gauges do not function--speedometer is the only one that does...horn at steering wheel,also does not work---someone has extended aftermarket cluster gauges below dash for oil pressure, petrol level, and coolant degree..even fashioned a button beside that cluster for the horn, works great....
interior is bucket valour seats, super tight and clean.
The engine, visually, has clues that makes me wonder about its history. please if you can, csi these pictures and let me know what you think-----original, rebuilt, ect?????


Image

dont have a clue what this number is--drivers side above headlight


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ive never understood what this tag is for??? although i do now see my vin number on the last bottom line....





can anyone identify the carb?? i looked all around it for a stamp. and ive been out of the slant 6 stream for a while now. It is a single barrel. egr valve is there and hocked up., just below in this picture.. The block has 5 freeze plugs..

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When i saw this paint job my heart fell, but this slant is the smoothest ive driven so far....by the way, the exhaust manifold is completely clear of paint. -burnt off, not sure-- stickers dont look like replicas/newer--

Image

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vacuum amplifier...what would be a symptom if this was not fuctioning correctly....im not even sure what its funtion is--to amplify vacuum pressure???

Please let me know if i downloaded pictures wrong/size/ect
im new here and it took me a while to figure out how to post them...

And if anyone sees anything wrong, right, familiar, i would love any feedback...


Last edited by midlifeslant on Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7425
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
The vacuum amplifier is a vacuum control device for operating the EGR.

Think of it as a transistor for vacuum control. :wink:

Symptoms would be pinging at slight power cruise to runs terrible most of the time.

CJ

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 15
Location: seattle wa
Car Model:
Ceej
thanks very much for the info. I think i have blocked all of the hose mass out, and didnt notice that the vacuum amp and the egr was connected, --they are routed together?? I will look more closely at their relationship....I just have never had, through my years with slant six's, had to look at or deal with so much emission mass.
thanks again very much for that....cheers


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 Post subject: The numbers...
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 9:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
Car Model:
Quote:
dont have a clue what this number is--drivers side above headlight
That is the radiator mount stamp it matches the last digits of your VIN...Mopar stamped the body in 3 places with this number (this is one)it will also appear on your engine block if original to the car, and on a transmission pad...Just to be fun mopar also put your VIN on the data tag under the hood (mass of alphabet soup), on the dash (seen through driver's side windsheild), and on a sticker at the end of the driver's door (open the door and look near the latching mechanism on the door.

Your carb is a Holley 1945 (standard carb for 1974-1980 passenger car slant sixes).

Your Data Tag:

E24 -225-1V
D31 -A904 Automatic 3 speed
Vin Code
Valiant
High Class-Scamp or Brougham
23 -2 Door Hardtop
C-225 slant six
6-1976
G-St.Louis, MO
124969 Sequence Number

LE9-Vintage Metallic Red Paint
H5EE-Interior 5=Non Recline Bucket EE=Red
000 - Full Door Panels
A22 = Production date October 22
100028 - Vehicle Order Number
V1W - White Vinyl Roof
U = Order Type
A76 - Salon Package
A91 - Deluxe Insulation Package - Nice Interior and a Quiet Ride
B43 - Manual Disc Brakes/Drums Rear
C21 - Center Front Cushion with Armrest
C56 - Bucket Seats-Non Recliner
G52 - Remote Chrome Left Hand Outside Mirror
H51 - Air Conditioner w/ Foot Heater
J52 - Instrument Panel Mounted Hood Release
M21 - Drip Rail Moldings
M25 - Body Sill Mouldings
M25 - Wheel Lip Mouldings (Nice shiny accents!)
M31 - Body Belt Moudlings Door/Qtr Panels
M38 - Deck Ornament Treatment (you got a Plymouth Forward Look Arrow on the end of the front hood!)
N21 - Air Pump (smog pump for the cat convetor/head...bet your head is a "447" head with the hole in the back where the tube attaches from this guy)
N37 - Catalytic Convertor (standard on A-bodies starting in 1975...)
N95 - Emission Test Label
R11 - Am Radio
K2W - White Stripe Treatment on the Hood and Deck

End

-D.Idiot


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 10:29 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 15
Location: seattle wa
Car Model:
D.Idiot

you rock. thanks so much for your time and research. it means a lot.
That info is spot on....that radiator stamp number-duh-matching the last digits of the vin, i didnt even see it....And now your going to get me looking up 447 heads.
:D


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 1:53 am 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7425
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
EGR is a good thing. It allows the engine to carry more advance, and get better mileage. It doesn't adversely effect power at all when working properly. :shock:
If you have removed the EGR, then the distributor must be recurved. If you don't the ignition will carry too much advance, and it will detonate (ping) when the car hits a moderate hill out on the freeway at cruise.
If you still have all the hoses and so forth, hook them back up. :wink:

CJ

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 6:55 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 15
Location: seattle wa
Car Model:
Ceej

I havent touched anything--its all still there
As i said this valiant is very smooth/no problems
If you have any more info on egr/vacuum amp/ccegr/egr delay solenoid/delay timer-- from another past post, or want to to share more info, please...
Better mpg put in front of any /6 owner should be red meat. But it does seem like most folks (include myself) get blurry eyed, and want to rip it OUT...I dont see much talk about these systems, within this great group of folks. And if its properly set up and used, and gives better mpg, folks should be buying....?
thanks again


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 1:04 pm
Posts: 7425
Location: Oregon
Car Model: 2023 Eichman Digger?
Just got off the road. I'm commissioning a control system for four buildings down south. The comute is killing me! :lol:

There have been threads, but the best description is thus:

EGR meters inert charge to the cylinder fill. Less air fuel when lower power requirements are present; cruise configuration, means more mpg. Since it isn't material that is going to burn, lower CHT and EGT. That equates to less thermal energy to dissapate.
Here's where it gets interesting. With lower air fuel density, greater ignition advance can be used to get peak expansion at a "More Ideal" crank rotation point. In other words, it's like using higher octane gasoline, without the cost or the tendency for the engine to spit a bunch of it down the tail pipe. (High octane fuel and low compression aren't a good mix.)

The nice thing about regular gas is, the additives that cause buildups in the combustion chamber are generally not present. Premium pump gas will put more junk into the combustion chamber over time. That's why it's so important not to run any fuel of higher octane than is required. The petrol guys have to add a bunch of compounds to fuel to slow the burn. (That's what octane rating is all about, burn rate at Stoich.) If the fuel burns too slowly, some of it get's spit out raw through the exhaust pipe.

OK, back to EGR. We can carry more advance, and get the greatly reduced power level required to maintain cruise with less air and fuel getting supplied from the carburetor. The additional fill reduces any pumping losses that would otherwise be present starving the engine's scavenging tendencies at cruise RPM. In addition, the incoming fuel and air are heated by the Exhast gasses, resulting in improved atomization.

Marvelous, eh?

Now, when you put the boots to it, stomp the go pedal to the floor, two things happen:

1. Vacuum advance goes away. Less advance, more power, assuming mechanical is all in.

2. EGR shuts off. less vacuum at ported means the vacuum amplifer, our trusty vacuum "Transistor" turns the EGR valve off.

What this means is, you now have straight air fuel mix, and as long as your intial timing and mechanical timing are appropriate for the engine build, max power available from a given configuration.

Nice, huh? :D

CJ

_________________
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2011 7:07 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:36 pm
Posts: 15
Location: seattle wa
Car Model:
Ceej
its early and before work. So, first off, thanks for the additional info about this system everyone seems to loath..I need a couple more coffee's and a shot to the head before i can properly dechiper all of it. i really do thank you for sticking with this post. I will record, then verify. cheers


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