just looking for ideas , i am thinking smaller valves might be giving me more boost readings! thinking over the last two weekend of racing i couldn`t understand you i went from 5/7 psi of boost to 10/12 psi with same drive ratio. the only change to this engine were a copper gasket which lowered compression and engblder valves that are .080" small on the intake and .030" on the exhaust.

logically smaller valves will let you build more pressure in the manifold but not in the combustion chamber.


Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

the more time i have to think about this, i am going to take the head of the high compression engine. i did not want to touch this engine, it put me into the 12.30et in the race car, it a .060 over bore, 11.2/1 comp, with 1.80"intake 1.60"ex valves, it has been cut .080 on the surface so it will increase my over all static comp but i am at 7.5/1 so it`s not going to far. i checked the compression, everything i around 100psi cold,so when i do the winter teardown i can fresh`n up the bearing and rings if i need too. i have the cam dial in at 108deg , which is what is called for, would going to 106degs help my ets with this blower combo? i did get my best 60ft time at 1.52et,so it feels good out of the hole.

Boost pressure does not make power, and is only for bragging rights. Total charge density into the engine makes power, so it seems that a higher flowing head can only help you.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

that is what i was thinking, 12lbs surprised me,especially when i never changed the blower drive. i didn`t want to be that high.

will it been a long summer racing some good some bad. just to update on what i have done. after trying to get the 1.70 int/1.44 ex head to work , which it did with a 11.48et@114mph and 1.54 60ft. but with 12psi of boost, 5psi more than with the 1.78in/1.47ex valve head. so last weekend i got the 1.80in/1.60ex valve head of the high comp engine and on to the blower block.i put a cut down size engbler valves in place of the ex valve, not trusting the way the ex valves looked after setting on the block in the back of the garage for 9yrs. will being a .080 over bore they looked like they would clear, should of checked, will after bending a pushrod on very first pass had to loadup and head home.spent the week tearing the engine appart. will all the intake valves cleared. the exhaust was another story,1 2 3 cyls all cleared, #5 bent the valve and the pushrod,4&6 had a shine spot at the top of the bore were the valve was just touching.will i pulled it all apart put the old 360cid valve back in the exhaust,put a notch at the top of all the bores so the was .030 clearence.put her all back together and headed back to the track for this pass weekend.now the good news, the boost drop to 10psi with the 1.80in/1.60ex head and et went to 11.42@117mph first run buy the end of saturday the car was running 11.28et@118mph.next morning the car was running mid to low 11.30et@117 to 119mph. so when i was out of compition rounds i switched the top pulley from a 36 tooth to a 34 tooth, the boost went back to 12psi but i ran a 11.15et@120.25mph fastest i have ever when,i just can bleive it. http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/22 ... good-times

Those are some stout times, Terry! Congratulations on your success. Maybe you'll be in the 10s next year???

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

thanks lou, we have 3 weekend left for the season is over up here, the 60ft time were amazing 1.49/1.47, the car just pulled so hard. when october hit the air usually the best,so it could be a treat? i`m just happy to have made the super pro bump and then some. it make me the only 6cyl in super pro.

That must really feel great.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

yes it`s still so unreal to me right now, to finially have this setup working. also to have the faster racer commenting on how i am running makes you feel like you have acomplished more.

Terry do you have a link to a build you have peaked my interest and I'd like to see some details
Congratulations that thing moves
Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

no i don`t, i have posted different pieces of the build on some treads on the site. i have pictures on webshots under my name. what did you want to know?

Make and model of vehicle, engine specs, drive train,vehicle weight all the juice stuff
I'f I can every get the little gremlins out of my valiant those are numbers I'm shooting for
62 Valiant
72 225 cid
Ported and polished head 1.71/1. 44 valves
230/230 @ 50 483 intake 489 exhaust 114 lsa cam
Block has been Oringed
1.5/1.6 rocker arms
Clifford intake holley 650 dp blow thru
Pte6262 T4 3 inch DP
904TF Rev manual VB 3000 rpm stall
8 3/4 2.94 suregrip
The frame is tied and i have a four point roll bar
I'm hoping the car should weight in at around 2650 or 2700 Pounds with me in it

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

will the car is a full square tube chassis (alston design) 75 duster. 8 3/4 rear 4.30 gears 29.5"x 11.5" slicks 2700lbs with me on board engine, .080 over bore pistons 244np badger cyl are bore on the high side # to give +.005@skirt clearence .042 copper gasket ,o-ring block ,head studs valves 1.80"int/1.60"ex, cyl notched for ex valve clearence stock rocker,smith brother 10.15"pushrod cam comp cr6 306s-5/306s-5 s 108 lift .556/.556 261@.050 904 low gear 3900 9 3/4" converter rev manual valve body 1 3/4 x 32 prime tube 20" collecter headers 2x450cfm mech secondary 4-71 blower 34tooth and crank 33tooth pulley meth/water injecton with 2x #5 noozles 630cc min

if i missed something let me know, also the backset on the engine is about 18" so weight distribution is 49% rear 51% front.helps alot with transfer.