i had my slant 6 rebuilt. prior to overhaul, the harmonic balancer did not have a bolt holding it on the crank. afterwards, with a bolt on the balancer, water pump pulley and balancer pulley don't line up. the water pump pulley sticks out (away from the block) 3/16" further than the harmonic balancer pulley. until i put the engine in, i can't tell exactly where the alternator line up since i used a bolt hole to hang the engine. i measured the old water pump and there may be 1/16" accounted for by the new pump sticking a little further out, but not the 3/16". do they make different depth pulley's for the water pump? any other ideas?

Are you using the same W. P. pulley and balancer as you had before?

There is no reason why this location would move unless you have different parts or the outer ring on the balancer got "pushed in" during install. How was it installed?
DD

Is it a new or rebuilt water pump? Maybe something is wrong there. I have seen a slight variation on another engine (not a slant) where the lower sprocket of the timing chain set was thinner than before but not that much. I would not have noticed except it affected the crank trigger. It was fixed with a machinery bushing behind the balancer ( a steel shim) after I pulled it all apart and measured everything. If the balancer is not damaged I would look at the water pump.

Did you remember to put the crank oil slinger inside the timing cover when putting the engine back together? That's only about 1/16" thick, but is a difference.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

well, it definitely is the pully and balancer off the engine.
it was rebuilt by a professional and i can only trust he put it back together properly. since i didn't take it apart or have it running prior to rebuild, i assume that the "missing bolt" from the front of the crank allowed the balancer to move out enough to meet the other pulleys. ??????

Remember, later engines (maybe post '70 or so?) didn't get an oil slinger. I'm pretty sure the presence/absence of the slinger doesn't materially affect damper position.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The bolt wasn't "missing". Most slant-6s did not have a bolt in that location. The damper is an interference fit on the crankshaft; no bolt is required to hold it in place.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

OK, guys. My problem seems to be the exact opposite. I finally got around to pressing on my harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley groove looks like about 1 belt width offset. I'm 90% sure I have the balancer pressed on as far as it will go.

1) I do have the oil slinger
2) Water pump is a NAPA remanufactured unit.
3) I'm not at all confident that this is the original water pump pulley.

Question one, are there variants with these pulleys?

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Gilly

1960 Dodge Pioneer
"Long Rod" /6, A833 Pistol grip Hurst
8 3/4" w/Suregrip and 3:91's
Still have more parts in boxes than on the car....

I was 90% sure I had mine on all the way, but when I slip my water pump pulley into place and saw how far off it was, I filled the #1 spark plug hole with soft, nylon rope to stop the engine from rotating and put the torque wrench back on the crank bolt and made some more progress, but I bottomed out the bolt about 1/4" short. A trip to Lowe's to buy a few washers, a few more cranks on the bolt and everything lined up.

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vm

what is the torque of the balancer bolt? i know my car didnt come with one, but i bought a nice bolt to use to turn motor over while building, and id like it to be on there all the time since... well i have it.

If it is short enough to be out of the fan just leave it in no torque spec needed.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing