all stock..
Ive let the trans get low on fluid 2 times.
went to 75-80 aprox two weeks ago and manual shifted,
it chirped the tire in 2nd gear two times during T&T..
then next week I heard grinding noise. @ 1st i thought it was the rear,
as i have never heard metal noise form an auto trans.
I then pinpointed it was the trans ..
tin'ie grind/vibration / would let off and it would go away.
check fluid level a tad low.
filled
then it would pull/not pull like low on fluid. got home parked checked fluid level
OK
next day dead in the water.
nothing @ all
pulled the trans line to drain trans and ran engine/I have done thisb4/nothing but a drip came out
I'm thinking the pump is shot?
any thoughts/help

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

sounds like it is time to pull....rebuild/replace

pump took a dump

Kevin

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crossthreads are better than locktite

OK
it's an outside driveway job
no garage/no lift
Ive never pulled a slant trans.
Im thinking removing headers/intake/carb/starter/shift linkage/jack the car up on jackstands
then remove duel exhaust/drop driveshaft
unbolt the trans mount with tailshaft of trans on floor jack?

do you unbolt the bellhousing from above @ all
I hav'nt taken a look yet
any issues to be careful reinstalling a rebuilt or spair unit
thanks.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

With the trans line disconnected,try starting it and shifting in neutral.Still no fluid?, it's the pump or something else failed so badly,it plugged the filter with debris. Stock torqueflites have very little or no oil flow to the cooler in "Park"

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V8?? We don't need no stink'n V8!!

While all are guessing, it might be the ears on the convertor that drive the pump might have broken off.

Richard

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

I was in neutral and there was no fluid flow.
Someone had posted that would work to drain the fluid the last time I did it.

you know I had a 1976 super six volare that made a rod like noise, a friend said it sounded more like a torque converter bolt lose or gone. I ended pulling the motor and trans scraping the cars as it was very rusty. upon inspection it was a torque convertor bolt off/the owner b4 had installed a rebuilt converter and must not have loctited one of the bolts..i will drop the pan first and inspect, for debris or anything
I must say that I did drive it hard, with the Hurst ratchet shifter i would most of the time bang second and it would hit hard even being stock.

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

You use loctite on your torque converter bolts? If I did that I would NEVER be able to get them loose.

you know the old school red tube has blue. not the strongest
I would put that on anything that has come lose in my life b4.
B4 loctite /old school was finger nail paint

"The purpose of this test is to determine the Yield Point of the Torque Converter bolts used to attached the Torque Converter to the Flex plate of the Jeep Liberty CRD. Once the Yield point is reached, the bolt can not generate any more clamping force that helps secure the torque converter properly in place with out shearing off the bolts.
Bolts are 5/16" X 1/2" long 24 TPI Grade 8 with 9/16" heads
Bolts and the threaded mounting tabs on the stock Jeep Torque converter were clean and dry, one drop of Red Loctite was placed onto the bolt threads. To simulate the flex plate that has a hole larger than 5/16" a 5/16" washer was placed onto the mounting tab and the bolt was screwed into the bore and torqued to 270 In-Lbs. After allowing the bolt to rest for two minuets, the bending bar torque wrench was brought up to 270 In-Lbs and the bolt head did not turn. Torque was increased until the torque wrench kept rotating very slowly with out an increase of the torque reading. The torque reading was 350 In-Lbs indicating the bolt was stretching and not capable of generating any more clamping force. The bolt was untorqued and was removed easily with minimal finger effort indicating the bore in the mounting tabs were not damaged even though the bolt was stretched.
Engineering tables recommend 18 Ft-Lbs (216 In-Lbs) for a 5/16" NF Grade 8 bolt. 350 In-Lbs = 29.16 Ft-Lbs.
Conclusion, the Torque Converter bolts used by Jeep for the Liberty CRD application have a torque safety factor of 162% when torqued up with Red Loctite.

This should put to rest any concerns about using Red Loctite on Torque Converter Bolts torqued to 270 In-Lbs. This goes for Original, Euro, SunCoast, or any other well built Torque Converter. This test is no recommendation to exceed the recommended 270 In-Lbs torque on the Torque Converter Bolts and only a determination of the torque safety factor."

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slant six's RULE!
http://www.usajon.com

I always use "blue" locktite on converter and flexplate bolts. I have seen too many come loose.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225