Update:
We decided we didn't want to wait any longer to put this engine back together again. I never did receive my stainless steel EGR blockoff from the Ebay seller (a month later). After looking at his feedback, it seems that I am not the first to whom he's failed to ship. I ended up making my own. For those without the tools to do this, maybe ordering the OEM Mopar EGR blockoff is a better option than the Ebay route.

Also, rather than waiting around for the OZ "hotbox" (intake to exhaust) gasket, I decided to make my own. My local O'Reilly Auto Parts was able to same-day order a sheet of high-temp exhaust gasket material (Fel-Pro 2498). I think NAPA may stock this material, too. I used the old sheet metal gasket as a template, and cut out a new gasket using aviation snips and a gasket punch.

Upon final installation of the Bouchillon kickdown cable, I noticed that the (GM-style) cable retainer on the carburetor end was a little loose in the bracket. I don't know if this was due to wear and tear from all of the "dry fits" I did while designing everything, or from a manufacturing defect. Either way, I secured the cable to the bracket using a couple of wire ties just to err on the side of caution.

With the spring on the transmission end of the kickdown cable and the return springs incorporated into the Weber itself, the gas pedal already has the correct amount of tension - no need to add an additional throttle return spring.

Harbor Fright stocks a little 1/4-drive torque wrench for about $20. Using it with a 12" extension and a U-joint made torquing down the manifolds a little easier. Note that this particular torque wrench reads in inch-pounds - just translate to foot pounds by dividing the number on the scale by 12. I had to retorque the manifolds 4 times with the Remflex gasket before everything was torqued evenly.

I ended up having to Heli-Coil the rearmost manifold stud because it came out of the head at a funky angle. It appears that it somehow came that way from the factory. The old stud I had pulled from this hole was actually bent to compensate. Has anyone else ever run into this sort of thing???

I finally received my OZ hotbox gaskets from both GPRS and PP&R - on the same day! They both shipped on the same day from Australia. If GPRS had responded to my emails, I wouldn't have had to purchase the second gasket from PP&R.

According to my experiences:
* GPRS takes forever to ship and provides no feedback or shipping info. They don't seem to respond to email messages.
* PP&R ships promptly, but don't waste your money on "priority shipping" - they charged me $33 to ship (hey, I was getting desperate!), but it took the same amount of time in transit (7 days) as the package from GPRS and it had a $4.20 postage stamp on it (same as the package from GPRS). It would seem that PP&R's "priority shipping" is a ripoff.
* Both gaskets seem to be of the same materials and level of quality.

Just a little note you should know about the Bouchillon cable/Super Six air cleaner on Weber installs on early A-Bodies.

The Super Six Air Cleaner does NOT fit a 63 Valiant (I suspect the same may go for a Dart and obviously Barracuda between 63-66. Not enough hood clearance, unfortunately.

Also, the Bouchillon cable requires "dimpling" of the floor in order to fit the rear mounting area properly.

Important things to know if you're installing this setup on an early A-Body.

On the later A bodies, the Bouchillon cable clears the transmission hump as is. It was a pain to install, as the exhaust was in the way - but it fit without modifications.

BTW: I can no longer recommend using the factory 1-bbl air cleaner. I am now running the rectangular Weber air cleaner. The OEM Duster 1-bbl air cleaner seemed to fit just fine until the engine finally gave up. When we rebuilt the engine, we noticed that the mounts were shot. Once we replaced the mounts and reinstalled the engine, the air cleaner was a little too close to the hood for my comfort...

gmiller001, if you need an alternative, here is an adapter for using a 4-bbl air cleaner on a Weber Weber DGV Air Cleaner Base Plate.

Olaf

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Aspenized

Olaf, that's the adaptor plate I have on my 225 with a 38DGES Weber.
Works great!

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"Ja, Ich fahre ein altes auto."
'78 Volare 225
'67 Charger 318

Wes, then you got the air cleaner I seek for my Motorcraft...

Olaf

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Aspenized

Another important point: Make absolutely sure your timing is set correctly! While stock is around 5 BTDC, the Weber will want it around 12 BTDC. We fought with a serious lack of power and stumbles until we adjusted the timing.

About the Weber DGV Air Cleaner Base Plate:

Not going to fit the Super Six Air Cleaner either, unless you intend on doing some modification to the cleaner (which I probably will). It's a pretty loose and weird fit, and frankly just doesn't work well.

It blocks the Carb flaps, which is probably only good if you enjoy a super rich mixture.

Also, a word on timing: not all cars are going to work at 12 BTDC. Stock, maybe, but my car won't take much more than 5BTDC. 12BTDC for me offers up a considerable amount of ping.

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63 Plymouth Valiant V200 Convertible.
225, HEI, Super Six with 38/38 Weber, Electric Fans, Scarebird discs, FirmFeel front swaybar.

anyone have experience with a weber dcoe 45? i received my lynx intake manifold recently, picked up the carb and its going to need a slight modification to work correctly, i have a filter on order; wont be running open velocity stacks but i have to wait for gaskets as well before the install. it'll be paired with a 6-2-1 genie header and go on a 225 slant. it needs some holes drilled though, mainly a booster line, but i guess that could be because its meant for a valiant? i'm not sure, but ill most likely be seeking professional help on the install to save myself headaches and downtime

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daily driven

I have absolutely no experience with Weber DCOE carbs - however, I have done a lot of reading up on them. The consensus among most DCOE, IDA, and Dellorto "Internet experts" seems to be that these carbs were designed to work strictly in a single cylinder per venturi configuration. It is advised against mounting them on a manifold that allows a venturi to feed more than one cylinder. The stated reason for this is because multiple cylinders drawing on a single barrel creates a different vacuum signal than a single cylinder would. While they state that the DCOE can be tuned to run in this configuration, the intake pulses must be evenly spaced (like on a 4-cylinder). In theory, the uneven pulses of that slant 6 manifold would "confuse" the carb, and basically makes it impossible to tune. The DG* and DF* series of downdraft Webers were designed to feed into a common manifold feeding multiple cylinders. I wouldn't want to even attempt getting a DCOE to behave itself in a configuration that if wasn't designed for, as getting Webers properly tuned is already a frustrating experience when everything is configured as designed.

You can read more about the debate:
https://www.google.com/search?q=dcoe+cylinder+barrel

If you want the Weber sidedraft look, have you considered going with a triple Weber manifold like the Aussies do?
http://www.hemiperformance.com.au/store ... it-Slant-6
http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/store/ ... y_rate=AUD

The Aussies have engineered (or re-engineered) just about any kind of manifold you can think of for the slant 6 - except for a single side draft manifold (or the double/triple SU manifolds - but that's understandable, since the British car guys don't seem to want them, either!). There could be a reason for this...

ahh alright, i was getting a little skeptical when i found almost no information on a carb like this; nothing in depth anyway. well i wont be undertaking the task of installation myself as its going on a semi daily driver and am trying to avoid downtime... and having to do it multiple times that being said. but, i've been referred to someone with a little slant experience so hopefully he'll be able to figure something out and it wont be a total wash.

appreciate the response though, always good to learn a little

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daily driven

For what it's worth, here's my advice...

Since you use this vehicle as a daily driver, I would install a Super Six (two-barrel) manifold and a Holley 350 carburetor. My reasons for this recommendation are:
* Holleys are everywhere. This also means that parts are everywhere, and people who know how to tune them are everywhere. That's important for something you drive every day.
* Unlike many of the "performance manifolds", the Super Six (factory two barrel) manifold directly hooks onto the factory exhaust manifold's "hot box". In other words, it is a heated manifold. This will make a difference in how crabby this engine is when it's cold outside. Use the TransDapt TRD-2086 adapter to adapt the Carter BBD bolt pattern to the Holley bolt pattern. There are a handful of Super Six (two barrel) manifolds on Ebay right now - search for "slant 6 manifold".
* The Holley carburetor should be a piece of cake to hook up to an automatic transmission, using the Bouchillon Performance Torqueflite Kickdown Cable Kit (Part# 3350) and the Accelerator Cable Mounting Bracket (Part# 3395). This should give you basically a bolt-on solution, requiring very little fiddling or engineering.
* Holleys tend to be easier to tune than Webers, and are certainly cheaper to tune than Webers (with a Weber, you can easily drop $100 in jets and whatnot, as you fiddle with it).

When I did the Weber conversion shown in this thread, the goal was fuel mileage. The Weber DG 32/36 did succeed in that regard - the car got around 22 MPG (up from 12, with the tired factory 1 BBL). However, the Weber was a big hassle. I've wondered what kind of mileage I could have gotten from a well-tuned Holley 350.

okay i see where your coming from, i was actually a little worried about the linkage aspect, which is why i was planning on bringing it somewhere to have it done. i have headers already, genie 6-2-1 long tubes; it actually has provisions for the stove pipe.. i think.. its more or less a sheetmetal tube welded to the top of one of the runners but the thoughts there.. ill update with pictures, waiting on a replacement phone at the moment. if anything ill see if the gentlemen that runs the shop can do anything for me and if not, or im going to lose an arm or a leg over it; ill just start re-shopping.

i decided to go this route because it seemed unique; not always a good thing ive learned. and i got them as a package deal off of ebay for around 500 bucks rather than a parts website for 500 a piece (headers and manifold separately)

fwiw the old posting may still be available on ebay, it was under lynx manifold and genie extractors, a google search should have something in regards to pictures but that your for the advice and more importantly part numbers.. thats my least favorite part is ordering things that are probably right but with no way to be sure

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daily driven

A stove pipe is different than the "hot box" (maybe not the right term?). The stove pipe allows the carburetor to suck warm air from around the exhaust manifold. The "hot box" connects the two manifolds together, and allows hot exhaust gasses to flow over the bottom of the intake manifold. This prevents vaporized fuel from the carburetor from hitting a cold manifold, and condensing back into liquid ("puddling" in the bottom of the manifold). Most OEM manifolds (even fuel injected ones) have engine coolant passages and use the engine coolant for this purpose. Since there are no engine coolant passages in the slant 6 manifold, Chrysler used exhaust gasses for this purpose. Don't get me wrong - this is not a necessary feature. However, the engine will be less cranky (especially, when it is cold outside) if you have this.

If you decide that this is something you want, and you want to maintain "headers", the only real option is to go with a set of "original" Dutra Duals.
http://www.dutra.org/doug/doug-sl6-exha ... -duals.htm

If you decide that the DCOE setup is too much of a hassle, I would remove the DCOE from the manifold, and sell each separately on Ebay. You should be able to get your money back. Holley 350 carburetors are easy to come by. They're only $330, brand new, but you can often find them on Craigslist or Ebay.
http://www.amazon.com/Holley-0-7448-2-B ... B00029J4H4

Personally, I would spend the money on a brand new one - that way you know exactly what you are dealing with.

The Super Six manifolds are probably the most common slant 6 manifolds still found in salvage yards, as they were the stock manifold from 1976 to 1986. If you keep a watch on Ebay, you can often find them for around $100. Also, check out car-part.com (search for an intake manifold for a 1979 Dodge Aspen). Really, the most obnoxiously expensive part is the transmission kickdown cable (if you have an auto tranny). Bouchillon is really "proud" of this kit, but it is well worth it. It will save you a lot of headaches, and a lot of money on labor (if you're having the work done). In Bouchillon's defense, I believe that the most expensive part of the kit is the cable, itself - which is a Chrysler dealer part (I'm not certain what the original application is). Their accelerator cable mounting bracket will allow you to use the stock accelerator cable (no need to rig up a new cable or gas pedal).

I really like the look of the Weber side drafts. They do look really cool on a dressed-out engine. I was looking at the triple DCOE setup, myself. If you were building a "trailer queen" to take to shows, I'd say go for it. Since you are messing with a daily driver, I do not think that you will be pleased with the result.

Another suggestion I can make for a daily driver is to do the Mercedes clutch fan conversion (if you haven't already converted to electric). One of the most annoying aspects of this engine, for me, was the obnoxious fan noise it made. Cruising through town was bad enough, but the noise was enough to drown out the radio at 70 MPH, with the windows rolled up. Search car-part.com for a 1977 Mercedes 280SE. This model came with an aluminum clutch fan (there is also a plastic one for this application, but I can't guarantee that it fits the same way) that will bolt right onto a slant 6, and will squeeze between the water pump and the radiator like it was made for this application. This made the car much more pleasant to drive, and increased gas mileage by about 2 MPG on the highway. If you go this route, make sure that the fan blade is aluminum, and try to find a seller who includes the clutch (that clutch is pretty pricey at the local parts house). The purpose of this conversion is that a clutch fan will allow the fan to "freewheel", when it is not needed (like when cruising down the highway). It will rob less horsepower from the engine, and will be quieter in the process (except when the fan is really needed, like when sitting still with the A/C turned on).